useing Dichroic???

[misfit]

Does anyone have good step by step advice/explaination for getting good results for Dichroic glass?

Thanks in advance.

A.

[lbjvg]

I think thats a big question. I just tried adding some Moretti clear backed dichroic to some marbles and beads for the first time recently and was disappointed in how they turned out (practically invisible). I know it is important to not apply the flame directly to the metal coated side but thats about the extent of my knowledge.

If there is a general "How to" dichroic tutorial I'd be interested to know about it also.

Otherwise, maybe you could narrow your question with some specifics?

- Jim

[misfit]

narrowed would be how to keep the coating intact. subtle is what I would be going for. but if its going to be way beyond me I want to know that.

A.

[DawnT]

Don't put the flame directly on the dichro coating. You want to work it with the coating away from you to begin so it's best to start with the clear-backed dichro. It shows up real well against a dark base. You want to push the clear down on the sides so the dichro is completely covered with the clear on the bead to seal it in so it doesn't burn. That's about all I know . Let me take a pic of some I made a couple weeks ago and post it.

Here it is. These beads were encased in clear. Sorry the scan isn't all that great.

[misfit]

thanks Dawn, Thats what I needed to know. with a clear enough explaination.

Alan.

[Jude Rose]

I can also tell from Dawn's pic that she didn't overcook her dicro after it was cased either. I tend to cook all the sparkle out of mine even when they are applied correctly because I'm not patient enough to S L O W L Y melt the clear casing for shaping.

That said, there is something on the market that has a stronger coating to it for dicro work. They're called DicroMagic HotSticks-either 90 or 104 COE. The dicro has been 'twice-baked' in a kiln and can handle higher temps and being flashed in the flame for longer periods of time. I tried to put some of my old dicro rods in a kiln bake to create the same effect. It worked, except many of them rolled and messed up my dicro a little. Just FYI.

Jude

[misfit]

also good to know Jude. at the price of dicro the more info the better.

A.

[BillBrach]

I second the Dichro Magic sticks. They are pricey though, wholesale is over $3 for a piece about 8" long x 1/2" wide.

Work as much on the backside as possible, and also farther out in the flame. It is slow going but the results are tremendous. The only problem I had was it is very difficult to get a really even coating of dichro on the outsdie of the bead. But, I just incorporate that to make spirals and such on the bead surface.

[lbjvg]

Reviving this to ask: For Moretti glass - There is black backed and clear backed dichroic available. I use a Mini CC torch (hot). Should I use only the clear coated strips? Is there any chance of being able to use the black backed strips? Who is the morretti black backed dichroic intended for?

[Kikki]

Where can I get the Dichro Magic sticks? They sound like just the thing I need as I also tend to cook the sparkle out.

[Kaye]

Well first off buy the clear, not black. Its much easier all the way around. Pre-heating the cut pieces on a little hotplate sure helps...if that isn't possible...pick them up with tweezers and wave them in the flame to get hot....not the dichro side but the clear side...heat the area on the bead you want to sink the dichro into and put the dichro side down into the bead and press it in. Pat Frantz showed a cool pair of long tweezers she ground all the grooves off and opened them up. I did the same thing and they work slick at pressing the dichro in....what your aiming at is getting all the dichroic finish sealed, so it can't escape the sides...taking some clear or transparent to run around the edges helps after but isn't a manditory thing you "have" to do, if you sink and seal correct you can just move on with the rest of your design. You can put dichro over dichro to, for layers and cool color change....if you get it sunk in right and the dichro sealed you can heat the bead and shape with no problem of scum. A brass stump shaper can also help with all this...you can press down and pull the clear over and so forth.

I was lucky enough to see Pat Frantz do a demo at the Gathering in Portland, and I have to say she made learning fun and I really understood what I needed to do after she did her demo.

Originally Posted by misfit

Does anyone have good step by step advice/explaination for getting good results for Dichroic glass?

Thanks in advance.

A.

[PamS]

If you ever get a chance, take a dichro class from Patty Frantz - and take copious notes. I did a couple years ago and am still trying to find the time to work with all the techniques I learned from her. She's also a great teacher and a lot of fun.

Regards,
Pam