Repousse lesson for Josie

Bruna · #1 2008-02-13, 12:04am

ok Josie, this is just the beginning. I'll try an make a video for the good part, this is the boring part, getting started.

I don't know the name of this paper in english, but here we call it albanene. it's used by architects I think. There you trace the outline of the piece you're making. I drew the rectangle that represents the sides of the box I'm making. The design has to fit inside it, without reaching the sides because the tin will stretch a bit (or aluminum)

it doesn't show very well, but above the original design is the outline I made.

Now the piece is taped to the sheet of tin. Here I use this pencil like tool. It actually has two tips. the smaller one is used to trace the design onto the metal. This part is done backwards, so that the drawing is correct when you turn it around. My work surface is glass, but to trace you use a magazine or a few pages of newspaper so you can press down without going too deep. (I'm not lefthanded, but I had to hold the tool that way to take the pic)

This is the piece with the outline ready to work with. This is the working side. Pushing here to get the raised image on the other side.

e. mort · #2 2008-02-13, 6:49am

I have had better luck with repousse if I leave some extra material at the corners, drill holes there, and then screw it onto the board with small wood screws. However, that can be a pain if you have to anneal your metal frequently. I have never tried out a pitch bowl yet - too messy for me.

Bruna · #3 2008-02-13, 7:23am

that sounds interesting Eric. My knowledge is self taught and have no idea about annealing the metal. What board do you screw it on to? the finished piece?I leave a bit of extra material so that when I glue it to the finished part I can cut it flush to the sides

Tink · #4 2008-02-13, 7:38am

That's too cool! If that's the boring part, I can't wait to see the GOOD part!!!

e. mort · #5 2008-02-13, 8:00am

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruna

that sounds interesting Eric. My knowledge is self taught and have no idea about annealing the metal. What board do you screw it on to? the finished piece?I leave a bit of extra material so that when I glue it to the finished part I can cut it flush to the sides

I usually screw it to a piece of scrap plywood or a piece of soft pine. Then when I am done I unscrew it, and trim off the area with the screw holes.

If you decide to do it with a piece of silver then you will most likely have to anneal the metal. If you work silver too much without annealing it gets really hard, and then it will crack.

My favorite book for metal working is "The Complete Metalsmith" by Tim McCreight. I took a few classes, but I am also mostly self taught. Tim McCreights books and videos are awesome!

Bruna · #6 2008-02-13, 8:07am

Thank you Tink.

Eric-- I'll have to get that book. I can¿t wrap my mind around the screwing on plywood part (iknow, i know it sounds very bad.. please forgive me) I have to keep turning my piece over and over, on a mat that looks like a mouse pad. Push down a part... turn it onto a piece of glass to delineate (sp) the section I raised until it's the right shape... then turn again, push, turn, etc.

I've seen the shilver sheets and some work done with them, but I am too much of a coward to consider using silver. The best I've used are German and Spanish tin.

e. mort · #7 2008-02-13, 8:24am

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruna

Thank you Tink.

Eric-- I'll have to get that book. I can¿t wrap my mind around the screwing on plywood part (iknow, i know it sounds very bad.. please forgive me) I have to keep turning my piece over and over, on a mat that looks like a mouse pad. Push down a part... turn it onto a piece of glass to delineate (sp) the section I raised until it's the right shape... then turn again, push, turn, etc.

I've seen the shilver sheets and some work done with them, but I am too much of a coward to consider using silver. The best I've used are German and Spanish tin.

I usually do one side completely, and then do the other side. If you put the piece on a small enough board then you just turn the board as you need to.

josielv · #8 2008-02-13, 10:06am

This is so fabulous!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you Bruna!!!!!!! I agree with Tink, if this is the boring part, we are in for a real treat!!!!!!

SadiesJewels · #9 2008-02-13, 5:08pm

Gorgeous Bruna ... I only just got a chance to check it out.

I did some small scale repoussee and chasing for enameling some time ago but haven't touched it for ages!

Bruna · #10 2008-02-13, 7:55pm

Thanks you, guys.

I'll add more soon.

Bruna · #11 2008-02-14, 7:36am

ack! I'm sorry... I made a little mistake on the title... Sadie asked me for the instructions, not Josie. LOL. Sorry!

Parrotise · #12 2008-02-14, 9:03am

Josie...Sadie, doesn't matter. We are just all glad you are posting it! This is fascinating! I can't wait for more!

Frit Diva · #13 2008-02-14, 9:13am

Bruna, what thickness of metal are you using? It looks to me like it's a light gauge aluminum maybe? If your metal is fairly thin and you don't have to use hammer and chisels or chasing tools, then you probably wouldn't see an advantage in the method with the board. So far the project is fascinating, I always love to see how other people do things, even things I know how to do!

Jo

Bruna · #14 2008-02-14, 9:18am

thanks Vicki and Jo.

Jo... the metal is .010 caliber, and much more maleable than aluminum. I think the aluminum I use is .004. No need to use hammer, chisels or chaing tools. It's some kind of tin alloy ( but I won't swear on it. LOL)

houptdavid · #15 2008-02-14, 2:52pm

Here is a project that my wife did a few years ago when she took a class from Garri Dadyan.
The copper cross is 8"x14" and stands out about 5/8". It is hand hammered copper mounted on walnut.
I believe this is on 26 gauge copper (.0159)

Eric...if pitch is to messy try modeling clay (Plasticine)

A little different than Bruna's (sorry no pics)...

This is the condensed version of how she was taught by Garri.

Garri does outstanding work that is unbelievable on a steel plate and modeling clay. His site is down(?) So here is another... http://www.molorakfilms.com/firstpag...arri/garri.htm
Click on the small plaque on the right for a better look.

Use the tracing paper pattern over carbon paper, on the face side follow the outline with a pencil.

When the outline is transfered take a very small pointed punch and follow all of the lines of the pattern.
Make punch marks very close together and firm enough that they show thru the back with out piercing the metal

Anneal the copper on the stove until copper turns color, let cool.

Turn the piece over to back and start to raise work with a punch and hammer on the steel plate, this is the tricky part to raise the material in such a way that it dosen't crinkle.

Anneal and repeat hammering until raised. Turn back to face side and push down if needed. Pounding the metal work hardens it and will cause it to crack/tear, that is the reason to anneal it.

To work on the face side...stuff modeling clay (Plasticine) into the back then you can work on the raised portion on the front.

To work the background turn face up and run punches as needed.

Once finished use Sulufric Acid (liquid drain cleaner) to clean the copper. Follow all precautions with this stuff!!!!!
Patina copper and Protect with spray lacquer.
Mount.

This will raise more questions I'm sure.

Bruna · #16 2008-02-14, 3:04pm

wow, that's amazing! absolutely beautiful!
The detail of the image from the link is amazing! I've never seen anyone work that way, it's more like the lazyman's style compared to that

Here's a pic with the different metals, all are stiff except the first one, that's what I like using.

http://www.mercart.com.mx/herramientas_repujado.htm

from right to left it's Tin (Estaño), 4 aluminums, copper and silver

josielv · #17 2008-02-14, 3:23pm

I was wondering when I asked, but I have such a crappy memory I figured I must have!! Either way, I love it, hee heeeeeeeeeee

houptdavid · #18 2008-02-14, 3:48pm

The stuff Garri does is just amazing, the detail... well photos just cannot do them justice. I think the plaque from the link above is about 8" tall.
It is too bad that his site is down, here are some more sites with his work.

www.askart.com/.../garri_eduard_dadyan.aspx

http://www.bladegallery.com/shopdisp...cts.asp?id=442

Bruna · #19 2008-02-14, 4:31pm

thank you for the links. I agree, it's amazing what he does.

Bruna · #20 2008-02-14, 4:33pm

http://www.abana.org/resources/galle...s/dadyan.shtml
just found this one.
very impressive!

houptdavid · #21 2008-02-14, 5:02pm

I wish I could recall the exact sizes, I think "the dancer" was a big piece 8"x12", "Nativity" is small
Here are some of the tools I made for my wife... http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...06#post1653506