Implosions - Page 3

indyglassman · #61 2010-11-25, 6:49pm

Great stuff Dan! Very nice.

I took a class from Dan the first weekend in November at Indy Flame Art Glass Studio. It was a full class and we had a great time. I'd been working on floral implosions off and on but couldn't quite get what I was looking for. During the class I was able to make a couple of neat marbles (minus the kiln rash from dropping them in too hot). Since then, the quality of what I've made has been much nicer. Thanks Dan!

Here is a lilly from that class. I didn't make the best stringer color combo for the leaf but you get the idea.

DanG · #62 2010-11-26, 12:05pm

Chris that looks great I like the yellow . Is it hard or soft?

indyglassman · #63 2010-11-27, 8:28pm

Thats the soft glass one from class. I've done boro exclusively since then though.

cadia · #64 2010-11-29, 2:49pm

DanG I would love some soft glass help!
Those flowers are so nice!
Tho Im doing small implosions not marbles~
How does one get the flower petals to flare out so beautifully?
Is this accomplished when the maria is pressed down on the graphite pad to flatten it ~ after heating the edges?
I mostly get long paddle~shaped blobs lol .
TIA!
And thank you so much for the great info in this thread!

DanG · #65 2010-11-30, 1:42pm

It's allot of things. How big your stringers are . Where you put them. How hard you push them in. How hot you get the core is when you are pushing them in. If your getting big blobs I would say your stringers are to thick.

giapet · #66 2010-12-11, 5:42pm

more inspiration, thanks! Have to work in soft tinight so nice to know can still play with implosions.

deb tarry · #67 2010-12-13, 9:45am

I am back working on implosions and I am happy to announce I am finally getting it. I do know now that I need a bigger torch or maybe a more powerful concentrator, they took forever to melt out. Hope you like.

Kim V · #68 2010-12-14, 5:35am

Beautiful!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by deb tarry

I am back working on implosions and I am happy to announce I am finally getting it. I do know now that I need a bigger torch or maybe a more powerful concentrator, they took forever to melt out. Hope you like.

davelovins · #69 2010-12-14, 7:05am

Dan, awesome work.
Chris, very nice depth.
Deb, really nice improvement.
Dan, I have a question. I can't seem to get the back of the marbles to pull down like you do. I get the implosion, and then try to pull the stem out, but it makes the marble stretch out. Then when I round it back out, it bunches back up. I am using boro. Does this make the difference? Oh yeah, Do you teach classes? I'd love to take one if you do.

davelovins · #70 2010-12-14, 8:35am

Here are a few implosions I made yesterday. 2 paperweights and a marble. Any advice on how to get the back of the marble to stretch out would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave

deb tarry · #71 2010-12-14, 9:09am

Dave I am no expert but I did observe something when I have been working through mine. First of all I want to share with you something I watch marcel from the Netherlands do. He made his pendant then puntied the side or edge of piece. Then he super heated the opposite side or edge of pendant in the flame and using heat and gravity had some of the clear move down which he pinched a hole for the bail. He did all this without moving any of the colours or design inside because he was up close to the face of the torch which was cranked so the surface glass was heated quickly. You can do this same thing with the edge of what you are making. Don't punty to the edge just keep your front punty on and melt all around the edges. But i also found I still have to add more clear to the back being careful not to trap bubbles or distort the stem. Hope this makes sense and someone jumps in to help clarify.

cheng076 · #72 2010-12-14, 11:00am

This didn't post very fast so I thought it didn't at all. Next post is better anyway!
PJ

cheng076 · #73 2010-12-14, 11:13am

Here is how I do it.
As I get the implosion near the last 'push' on the marver plate I try to have a shallow indent (3mm to max 5mm deep) with rounded 45 deg side angle and rounded shoulder. I let the marble mass cool a bit so it is stable and then concentrate a smaller flame on the indent almost directly head on. I want to get a hot hemispherical area surrounding the indent that includes some of the maria side glass. When that is ready I reach into the indent with a 3mm or 4mm rod and grab the bottom of the indent and pull it inside out. I only pull until I see no air trapped and see a nice stretched stem; about 10mm or 12mm. I rip off the scuzzy glass until I have a clean point with just a pin point of bright color showing. At this point some people add a bit of green to extend the stem effect. I then gently bring the whole marble mass up to heat and let gravity and surface tension round the mass into a sphere then I go to the mold for shaping and finishing.
PJH

davelovins · #74 2010-12-14, 11:20am

Thanks a lot for the guidance. Is there a difference in the technique for soft and boro? I am getting my mold next week, so the shapes will be better and actually working the marble will be a little easier.

cheng076 · #75 2010-12-14, 2:45pm

There shouldn't be much differance. Just the normal differences between soft and boro. Work a little cooler and farther out in the flame and a bit quicker than with boro but the techniques are the same.

davelovins · #76 2010-12-14, 5:02pm

Thanks so much for all your help. We'll see how this works out the next time I get to torch. It has been a frozen tundra around here foe a couple of days. I'll post when I can.

DanG · #77 2010-12-15, 5:03am

Hey Dave and Tia
I'm sorry I didn't get back to you sooner I don't do Boro so I forget about this page. It looks like you have plenty of help all ready so I don't need to post any thing. Just watch your heat I wish I could tell you how much but not working it I don't want to lead you the wrong way. John K would be the person to help you there is no one better. Here is one I made about 2 weeks ago with soft . Dan

davelovins · #78 2010-12-15, 6:19am

Awesome work Dan.

DanG · #79 2010-12-16, 5:53am

Thanks Dave
It's like I've said before I owe it all to John K and many many junkers. I can't count how many bad marbles I've made getting to this point. If any of you ever great to take a class with John don't pass it up. Dan G

glassactcc · #80 2010-12-16, 8:54pm

Beautiful work Dan. I would love to know what clear you are using?

Mitosis Glass · #81 2010-12-16, 9:23pm

Amazing work in this thread! I'm going to be trying implosions and would like to mark this thread for future reference.

JesterGlass · #82 2010-12-17, 4:54am

While I don't do soft glass anymore, back when I did, I used Lauscha clear for all my marbles.

DanG · #83 2010-12-17, 5:03am

The clear I use was made by a man in IL and he no longer makes it. Thats why I'm going to try Boro the clear is all ways good. I have pucks but they are a pain to use.

deb tarry · #84 2010-12-22, 10:19pm

Some flowers I have been wrestling with, getting close to pinning them down.

effemess · #85 2010-12-23, 4:29am

Just wanted to say what lovely boro Im seeing - too many names to mention. Im boro deprived at the moment, because I lent my 2nd oxycon to somone who needed to make soft glass beads for Christmas presents, and their only oxycon gave up the ghost a week ago...

davelovins · #86 2010-12-23, 5:41am

Here's my last implosion marble. I was able to get the stem to pull down a little in this one. The pics really aren't the best, but you can get the idea.

gmkcpa · #87 2010-12-23, 8:11am

Quote:

Originally Posted by indyglassman

Great stuff Dan! Very nice.

I took a class from Dan the first weekend in November at Indy Flame Art Glass Studio. It was a full class and we had a great time. I'd been working on floral implosions off and on but couldn't quite get what I was looking for. During the class I was able to make a couple of neat marbles (minus the kiln rash from dropping them in too hot). Since then, the quality of what I've made has been much nicer. Thanks Dan!

Here is a lilly from that class. I didn't make the best stringer color combo for the leaf but you get the idea.

I have many kinds of bromiliads in my garden and (depending on the time of year) several have leaves identical to those on your lilly. Yours look just fine and totally natural to me.

deb tarry · #88 2010-12-23, 9:02am

Good job Dave lots of depth to that one.

JesterGlass · #89 2010-12-24, 12:50pm

This is a good example of one that I didn't have enough of the glass in the maria, so the implosion never got above the midpoint (or even close, really).

deb tarry · #90 2010-12-24, 4:03pm

Jester that has some incredible color if you don't mind me asking what colours did you use.