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Jelveh Designs - Glass Beads Torched One-by-One

Beads of Courage


 

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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #1  
Old 2007-04-21, 10:31pm
tuffydog tuffydog is offline
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Default Boro Color in implosions

I see all these great colors in the implosions. Every time I make one it is bland, mostly sad washed out green. I get great color making beads and sculpture. Can I get some advice? I am getting frustrated,and tired of wasting my color . Thanks for all the help I get here,everyone is so generous.
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  #2  
Old 2007-04-21, 10:52pm
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sleekbeads sleekbeads is offline
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Tuffydog, what colors are you using that give you the washed out green color? I usually just experiment a lot with the high silver content colors.
Can't go wrong with those (usually lol).
Maybe you are overheating. When I make an implosion, I usually gently press the maria onto a graphite block for a bit to soak the heat out of it, then I return it to the flame to work it more. (Thanks for that tip, Smiley!).
Do you have any pictures? That might help. I'm not expert, but everyone is always so nice to me here, that I like to try to help too, when I can.
Good luck!
Jo
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  #3  
Old 2007-04-22, 3:03am
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Leanne Leanne is offline
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Maybe try using the WYSIWYG colours or Peacock chameleon is great for implosions.
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  #4  
Old 2007-04-22, 11:31am
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Colors work differently for this technique than for surface work because they are encased with clear and get so stretched out. So indeed, make sure your colors are the more intense ones. More saturated with metals, that is.
What colors ARE you using?

Something like Amazon Lagoon, Blue Exotic, Blue Moon, Double Amber Purple, Black Elvis or Silver Strike 5 are more what you would want than Blue Amber Purple, Silver Strike 3, Light Ruby, Multi etc... unless you want a transparent effect, that is.

If the rod is transparent to begin with, it is probably too light or in between for this method. Right on the edge are colors like Green Carnival or Multi.

Quick color suggestions for implosions, frit or rod - Silver Strike 5 is a nice yellow golden tan, Amazon Night is a green or gold brown, Black Elvis is a dark red, cinnabar is a good opaque red, Triple Passion, Purple Luster and Double Amber Purple can look a lot of different ways and are great in frit. Peacock Chameleon will turn medium blue through light teal or white.

It would be great to have an implosion color menu... it's hard to know how all these colors look once imploded.
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  #5  
Old 2007-04-22, 11:38am
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Some of my favorite colors for implosions:

Blue Moon
Purple Luster
Triple Passion
Amazon Bronze
Spring Luster
Silver Creek
Any GA color that says "Luster", "Chameleon", or "Carnival" in the name. Just stay away from Clover Chameleon. It usually cracks on me.

Also, keep them hot while you are working them. Especially the Amber Purple/Triple Passion type colors. You want them to stay almost clear while you are working them.
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  #6  
Old 2007-04-22, 11:51am
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Mr. Smiley Mr. Smiley is offline
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Yeperz... keep them HOT! Try not to lose your heat base while you are marvering flat... the faster and hotter you work the AP's the better they look.
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"Truth is, everybody is going to hurt you; you just gotta find the ones worth suffering for." -Bob Marley
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  #7  
Old 2008-07-25, 11:34am
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I know im resurrecting an old topic, but I have some more detailed questions about high silver frit implosions.
First off, I have tried dozens of different GA silver frits for implosions. I can do some crazy funktastic things on the outside, but on the inside its about 1 out of 10 that really come through with fantastic colors. And here is what I do, please let me know what i'm doing wrong.

w/ 18m clear rod
1. heated tip to a nice glow (14-18sec)
2. smash said tip to a perfect disk (3sec
3. correct any wonkyness with torch marver and paddle (2sec)
4. lightly heat the face of the disk(1sec)
5. pick up some dbl amber prpl
6. work that frit in on a nice big hot (leaning toward oxy) flame to reduce haze up on the face (6-10 sec)
7. super light marver on torch marver & paddle (1/2 - 1 sec)
8. reheat face to glow (4 sec) and spin with 4ml rod, pull of nipple (10 sec)
9. melt back in and light marver as before (6-8 sec total)
10. light reheat and pickup colbalt frit
11. repeat 6 & 7
12. pickup amazon jewel super fine frit
13. repeat 6 & 7
14. pickup dbl amber prpl
15. repeat 6 & 7
16. punty up (3sec)
17. rage a super oxy center flame and cut the piece off of the rod (20-25sec)
18. round out, side punty, tap off back punty melt in punty mark

any ideas?...Just too hot and too much bobbing?
Thanks.
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  #8  
Old 2008-07-25, 11:52am
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here is a pic of a dbl amber purple spinup frit implosion with amazon jewel in the background. notice they are almost exactly the same color. Unfortunatly if the answer is to take a lot longer on the cook in, i have to pass on them as I need these pieces to take no more than 6-7 minutes a piece.
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  #9  
Old 2008-07-25, 8:36pm
oldschooltofu oldschooltofu is offline
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what clear are you using?
i have found schott can make some silver colors like blue moon look greener
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  #10  
Old 2008-07-26, 6:05am
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yeah, schott-rohrglas. you thing its my clear? wow, i never would have suspected that..... actually, now that you mention that, i did use a 12mil for a smaller piece and it was from a different batch and the persimmon strike just popped like none other.... hmmm that would be a real shame considering we have like 20 full rods of 18m for this product... fubar
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  #11  
Old 2008-07-26, 10:56am
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I'm not very experienced in implosions, but having read your process, I don't see where you're striking the color. If you don't strike it, you'll get the very light amber color you see.

If you don't have the time to strike it, you might want to either use a different (non-striking) color OR back it with something that has more contrast with light amber.
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  #12  
Old 2008-07-26, 12:31pm
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Weird Vega?
That pendant is definitely hazy and from the sounds of your torch set up you have plenty of heat available? I have experienced hazing on my implosions using Schott as well but, I don't do that many to verify that it is the clear. Interesting...
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  #13  
Old 2008-07-26, 2:01pm
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Yeah I suppose I should have been a little more clear about that. I have tried every suggestion on the forum for flame striking (sorry, didnt put that in the list). I am just going to have to take it over to the big shop and request a chunk of time for kiln striking it... which.. is not easy becuase his kiln is usually filled with about $2-4k worth of glass... but i think I should get it to work out, he will be gone all next week ... AHH!!
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  #14  
Old 2008-07-26, 2:12pm
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If your pendants are usually that hazy it isn't likely that it will kiln strike very well either. You will get a little color but nothing vibrant in a piece with that much trapped haze.
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  #15  
Old 2008-07-26, 2:18pm
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I have seen a few people say 'trapped haze'. That seems to me like it happens in between the point when I've picked it up and when it FIRST melts in, not any other time. When I pick it up, should it be near white, glowing, or just hot enough to pick it up? after which point I have a nice oxy heat, melt it in and keep it hot through the whole process. Im just wondering if it is the very first step, when I pick it up... Usually i have it rocking hot, not molten, it still holds its shape but its got a saturated glow... wondering if THAT is what is causing a haze to get trapped inbetween the frit glass and the rod glass.... interesting.
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  #16  
Old 2008-08-07, 1:31pm
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playswithfire104 playswithfire104 is offline
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WOW! I wish I could do an implosion pendant in 6 - 7 minutes. Hell it took me about an hour and a half for a soft glass one.
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