Bead door on Jen Ken kiln... closing issues.

alissa · #1 2007-12-31, 8:35am

I picked up a used Jen Ken kiln with a bead door recently, and the door doesn't close all the way. In fact, it gapes quite a bit. I'm new to the whole bead door thing, so I'm not sure if in fact it's supposed to gape this much... but it seems like it's a complete waste of heat for it to be able to leak out so easily.

I can't figure out how you'd do much to fix it, either. At the "closed" position, it's at a 35-40 degree angle, with a few inches of space between the door and kiln side. Perhaps I just need to take off the fiber blanket and remold it?

Can someone help enlighten me?

Here's the kiln for those who need a visual reference:
http://www.jenkenkilns.com/glass_kil....asp?KilnID=94

Teague · #2 2007-12-31, 12:13pm

If I'm fusing with mine, I"ll prop something against the door to seal it and that seems to help. I bought mine used as well, so maybe it was better new? Did yours come with an extra brick? I was told you put the brick in place of the door for fusing, but my brick isn't remotely the right shape to fit.

One thing I can warn you about, is if you use 12 inch mandrels and they stick out, they'll stick into the fiber and over time it'll start losing chunks. So be careful that your mandrels aren't sticking into the door. I thought the idea was that they would stick out and the door would rest on top, but because the floor of the kiln isn't level with the door, the mandrels angle up and stick in.

Teague

burntfingers · #3 2007-12-31, 1:47pm

I have that exact same kiln too (also bought used). I just prop a brick against the outside of the door to keep it closed.

alissa · #4 2007-12-31, 4:05pm

Ah-ha, so it isn't just me... I'll definitely be careful with the long mandrels, and it looks like I need to buy another kiln brick... (mine didn't come with anything but a thick layer of dust), along with scrounging up a piece of red brick. Someday I envision creating a second hinged section of door so that the mandrels *can* stick out and there's less heat loss... but until then...

Thanks for the replies!

And Teague... you're looking for a position in a lab?

Glass Allure · #5 2008-01-01, 10:11am

With mine, there is too much fiber blanket at the top of the door. I don't remember why I decided to replace the fiber blanket but when I did I used less at the top than they did and now mine closes perfectly.

alissa · #6 2008-01-01, 4:27pm

When you replaced it, how did you form the blanket into the appropriate shape w/ the bumpout for the door?

Teague · #7 2008-01-01, 8:35pm

You don't really have to buy another brick, you can use any old thing to prop against the door, just as long as it won't catch on fire.

Sure Alissa, where are you at?

Teague

Quote:

Originally Posted by alissa

Ah-ha, so it isn't just me... I'll definitely be careful with the long mandrels, and it looks like I need to buy another kiln brick... (mine didn't come with anything but a thick layer of dust), along with scrounging up a piece of red brick. Someday I envision creating a second hinged section of door so that the mandrels *can* stick out and there's less heat loss... but until then...

Thanks for the replies!

And Teague... you're looking for a position in a lab?

Glass Allure · #8 2008-01-02, 7:42am

Quote:

Originally Posted by alissa

When you replaced it, how did you form the blanket into the appropriate shape w/ the bumpout for the door?

It's just an extra layer at the bumpout on my door. Instead of using a full extra layer I thinned out a piece to put there. That made the difference in my door shutting and not shutting.