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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2015-01-08, 12:12pm
RunningOnFumes RunningOnFumes is offline
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Default bringing soft glass back into the torch from a kiln

Hey everyone I have yet another Noob question What is the best way, if any, to re-introduce a piece back intothe flame to build upon a piece? I have tried and every time it cracks Any suggestions?? I am currently working with 104 coe btw
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  #2  
Old 2015-01-08, 12:33pm
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Well, the first step is making sure that the kiln is keeping your glass just shy of the slumping-point. This is highly dependent upon the kiln itself and even the piece's location inside of the kiln. There's no perfect temperature that works for every kiln, partially because of differing calibrations, and partially because of different kilns having different hot spots/cold spots.

Other than that that, start far out in a fluffy reducing flame, maybe even propane only, and work your way toward the torch's face.
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Old 2015-01-08, 2:06pm
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Slowly slowly heating, starting in the outer reaches of the flame, slowly moving toward the normal working area, keeping it turning of course, so it can absorb the heat into the core until it's hot enough to work. And if it just cracks, remember that you might be able to heal that. I've had a couple that didn't make it but they more or less exploded
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Old 2015-01-08, 2:57pm
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That is a good question. I work boro and have some pieces I would like to expand upon.

My scrap rate has gone down to one in 4 vs a 50/50 I got when I first started.

Im used to exploding glass.
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  #5  
Old 2015-01-08, 7:03pm
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Try soaking it in your kiln at 1050 degrees. See how it does - you don't want it to be so soft that it warps but warm enough that you can introduce it into the flame pretty easily.
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  #6  
Old 2015-01-09, 6:32am
RunningOnFumes RunningOnFumes is offline
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Thanks for the wisdom / guidance of your great suggestions ..... I have a Jen-Ken Kiln AF3P 11/9 w/4" Flip Door incase that matters for specifics/settings . I am still learning how to use it being on the flame only about 2 months . I have mainly been using the bead 2 (Large Moretti ) setting which ramps up to 960 F and holds for several hours. I will try and set up a user defined setting for the 1050 temp as well as trying to be patient when bringing it back into the flame.
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  #7  
Old 2015-01-09, 6:35am
RunningOnFumes RunningOnFumes is offline
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snoopdog6502

I plan on working with some boro very soon too. I wonder if my kiln (Jen-Ken Kiln AF3P) will be adequate.The max temp I believe is 1100.

Does anyone hat would the soaking temp be for If I want to to re-introduce a piece of boro back into the flame to build upon a piece? I may contact Jen-Ken on this one ... they are quite helpful


found a thread on Boro too that may be helpful Snoop.. http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/ar...p/t-20176.html

Last edited by RunningOnFumes; 2015-01-09 at 6:57am. Reason: more info
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  #8  
Old 2015-01-09, 10:01am
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I have been successful bringing things back to the flame from a kiln at 925° as long as I remember the rule about starting at the back of the flame, and being patient.
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  #9  
Old 2015-01-09, 11:21am
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Dont forget that if you take it out of the kiln to put into the flame the mandrel will be HOT so you need a holder.......... Guess how I know about that???
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Old 2015-01-09, 11:29am
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Oh yes! Forgot about that, but I usually have a wet cloth to take some of the heat from the mandrel so it doesn't burn me. I can touch the end OK, but to hold it normally I have to remove some heat.
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  #11  
Old 2015-01-09, 12:07pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RunningOnFumes View Post
snoopdog6502

I plan on working with some boro very soon too. I wonder if my kiln (Jen-Ken Kiln AF3P) will be adequate.The max temp I believe is 1100.

Does anyone hat would the soaking temp be for If I want to to re-introduce a piece of boro back into the flame to build upon a piece? I may contact Jen-Ken on this one ... they are quite helpful


found a thread on Boro too that may be helpful Snoop.. http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/ar...p/t-20176.html
Thank you the very cool news is my kiln gets here UPS Today! I got a paragon caldera digital new with enameling collar/bead door for $650 on e bay.
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  #12  
Old 2015-01-09, 5:18pm
RunningOnFumes RunningOnFumes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheeky monkey View Post
Dont forget that if you take it out of the kiln to put into the flame the mandrel will be HOT so you need a holder.......... Guess how I know about that???

OUCH !!
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  #13  
Old 2015-01-10, 2:24am
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Making your flame bushy can help too since it spreads the heat out over more area.
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  #14  
Old 2015-01-10, 8:28am
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Sharon Peters once posted on that topic. You might do a search and see what you can find.
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  #15  
Old 2015-01-12, 11:31am
RunningOnFumes RunningOnFumes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FosterFire View Post
Sharon Peters once posted on that topic. You might do a search and see what you can find.
Thanks for all of the awesome tips and advice !!!
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  #16  
Old 2015-01-15, 5:31pm
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You can come back from 950 just fine, it just takes patience and some VERY good way to grip that bloody hot mandrel. Though if you're talking about sculptural pieces, you can just punty up, I suppose.

(I'd rather have a root canal than use a punty, but some day I'll master it.)
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Old 2015-01-16, 4:00pm
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Yeah when I do it the kiln is just at 950, i have the mandrels sticking out of the kiln. But yep, introduce slowly in the back of the flame.
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  #18  
Old 2015-01-16, 9:10pm
caliglassguy caliglassguy is offline
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also helps when coming out of the kiln to avoid burns is just to have the longer 9 inch or even 12 inch mandrels and for the glass itself to introduce slowly in the back of the flame and even wave it a bit as you're heating it.
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  #19  
Old 2015-01-18, 11:26am
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I do lots of waving!

First I grab the mandrel with cross-locking tweezers, then I dunk the end of the mandrel in a tall glass of water. Then grab the end of the mandrel with my hands and remove the tweezers.

You can start waving it at the end of the flame at this point. But I often take a spoon and spoon water over the rest of the mandrel (over the glass of water) to cool off the rest of the mandrel, because I don't like getting burned.

Wet paper towels would work too...that's a good idea!

Then I wave it through the end of the flame a lot and proceed as usual. I rarely have them explode...most of my beads are on the small side, though.
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Old 2015-01-18, 11:30am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caliglassguy View Post
also helps when coming out of the kiln to avoid burns is just to have the longer 9 inch or even 12 inch mandrels and for the glass itself to introduce slowly in the back of the flame and even wave it a bit as you're heating it.
I use 12" mandrels and they are still hot...I have a large kiln, though, so the mandrels aren't sticking out that much. A shallower kiln wouldn't do that, I suppose.
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Old 2015-01-18, 11:31am
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I use 12" mandrels and they are still hot...I have a large kiln, though, so the mandrels aren't sticking out that much. A shallower kiln wouldn't do that, I suppose.
Oh, and my kiln is at 960 most of the time.
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Old 2015-01-18, 12:35pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eileen View Post
Oh yes! Forgot about that, but I usually have a wet cloth to take some of the heat from the mandrel so it doesn't burn me. I can touch the end OK, but to hold it normally I have to remove some heat.
That's a good idea--I've taken it out with pliers, dipped the bare end into a cup of water, and then I can hold it. I got the idea watching furnace workers with their pipe coolers.
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