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Go Back   Lampwork Etc. > Library > Boro Room > Free Boro Tutorials

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  #181  
Old 2010-09-18, 5:48am
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Bakerman44 -- Also, Milton Townsend has a couple of DVD's in the "Focus on Flamework" series.

Focus on Flamework
An Introduction to Using Borocolour® is a good intro. There is also one on Frit and Powder use.
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  #182  
Old 2010-09-21, 6:34am
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  #183  
Old 2010-10-02, 1:22pm
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  #184  
Old 2010-10-06, 6:37pm
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Okay I keep hearing that clear is used a lot. Can someone explain this please? I don't want to sound like an idiot but is the clear used as a base because the colors are intense, or as an encasing? Or both? Or am I reading things wrong?
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  #185  
Old 2010-10-07, 8:30am
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Yes, used as a base it saves money because it is much cheaper than the color you coat it with.
Also many times it allows the colors to be their best with some light shining through.
Clear used on top of the striking colors in frit, encasement or swirled around in it makes some interesting color changes and variations.
As Tom mentioned some people even mix the more intense colors like Double Amber Purple for example with clear to thin it out.

Here's a couple of examples of the changes you can get with clear:

This one is solid Loki's Lipstick:


This one is a light coat of Loki's over clear:
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  #186  
Old 2010-10-07, 8:57am
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Wow that is seriously cool lol. I am looking forward to giving this a try.
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  #187  
Old 2010-11-02, 9:34pm
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  #188  
Old 2011-01-03, 5:02pm
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Bump thx
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  #189  
Old 2011-01-03, 5:29pm
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5. For the Purple Thunder, you will need to strike this color. After you have encased and rounded up your bead, remove the bead from the flame until the glow has entirely disappeared. You can hold it in the shadows under your table to see that the glow is gone. Then reintroduce the bead into the outer third of your flame and rotate slowly, watching to see the color come up. It should strike very quickly, so as soon as you see it start to blush purple you want to remove it from the flame. Make several of these and strike them for different lengths of time to see what you get. I generally strike my beads in the flame rather than in the kiln. Some colors such as pinks may need some kiln striking.*

I have a question on this. You strike this AFTER you encase it in clear? I didn't know that would work, I always thought you had to strike it first then encase. But I have only done soft glass until now.
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  #190  
Old 2011-04-12, 4:09pm
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  #191  
Old 2011-04-30, 7:35pm
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  #192  
Old 2011-04-30, 8:06pm
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What an awesome thread..thank you everyone!
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  #193  
Old 2011-05-03, 9:25am
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I'm a total newbie and tried making all the different hearts here with not too much success. So I borrowed a little from all of them. I made a cone from a gather of persimmon strike and an unknown similar color mixed together. Smashed the cone flat like the mandrell heart bead, the used scissors to cut and shape similar to Mr. Smiley's technique, and even managed a twisted bail. Anyway hear are the pics.

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  #194  
Old 2011-05-03, 11:29am
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Cool! Good job nate-d!
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  #195  
Old 2011-06-06, 3:25am
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I just want to thank you everyone for this incredibly useful thread.
I learned a lot.
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  #196  
Old 2011-06-07, 2:00pm
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Yes. This is great. I have a boro sampler that I've been wanting to try. I think it's time.
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  #197  
Old 2011-08-13, 9:25am
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  #198  
Old 2011-08-24, 6:24pm
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I made the change from soft glass to Boro a few months ago and I have found this thread to be a great source of ideas and inspiration.

I am just getting the hang of tubing and expect to post some pictures in a few days, after more PPP.
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  #199  
Old 2011-08-26, 7:35am
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Check these tutorials out:

http://openlabglass.com/?page_id=22
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  #200  
Old 2011-09-20, 4:13pm
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I'm glad I found this thread. After 16 years melting soft glass I needed a change to re-energize creativity so I recently bought a lot of boro rods and frit. I took a wonderful boro workshop many years ago with Bandhu Dunham and it was a lot of fun. But at the time I didn't think I'd actually cross over to boro and (shame on me!) I didn't pay a lot of attention to detail or ask pertinent questions. So - no surprise - I knew the working properties are much different and sometimes frustrating for a soft glass person. This thread has been very helpful. I feel like a newbie all over again but I know practice and patience will eventually pay off.
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  #201  
Old 2011-09-20, 8:00pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunyip View Post
Check these tutorials out:

http://openlabglass.com/?page_id=22
I "know" that artist Berts driptips rock
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  #202  
Old 2011-09-20, 8:04pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maddog1050 View Post
I'm glad I found this thread. After 16 years melting soft glass I needed a change to re-energize creativity so I recently bought a lot of boro rods and frit. I took a wonderful boro workshop many years ago with Bandhu Dunham and it was a lot of fun. But at the time I didn't think I'd actually cross over to boro and (shame on me!) I didn't pay a lot of attention to detail or ask pertinent questions. So - no surprise - I knew the working properties are much different and sometimes frustrating for a soft glass person. This thread has been very helpful. I feel like a newbie all over again but I know practice and patience will eventually pay off.

Being a newbie that jump straight into Boro...curious whats different exactly?
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  #203  
Old 2011-09-21, 12:47pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by untamedrose View Post
Being a newbie that jump straight into Boro...curious whats different exactly?
Actually it would be easier to ask the converse.....What are the similarities?
I had been working soft soda lime glass for almost 6 years when I jumped into torching boro.
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  #204  
Old 2011-09-23, 10:53am
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Boro is so much stiffer than soft--longer time to melt enough to wind onto the mandrel, much more effort and heat needed to shape. I've burned through more than a couple mandrels.

And there seems to be a number of different annealing schedules depending upon striking and non-striking colors, cased and non-cased colors. With soft glass I have a one size fits all annealing schedule that seems to have successfully and consistently worked for me.

With most soft glass I've found the colors to be wysiwyg, but boro can come out of the kiln with some surprising results.

So far those are the biggest challenges I've found. But I'm not giving up! I'm guessing that going from years of boro to soft would be just as challenging.
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  #205  
Old 2012-01-29, 7:29am
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Bumping this up for the new newbs. LOL
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  #206  
Old 2012-02-25, 2:53pm
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I just took my first boro class the other night (Sonoran Glass Art Academy in Tucson, AZ) and now I'm addicted!!!!! - so glad I found this awesome thread! Great material and so useful for practicing boro techniques that I just learned.

THANK YOU TO ALL THE ARTISTS THAT POSTED TUTS ON HERE!
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  #207  
Old 2012-03-10, 11:06am
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I've got my gifted glass, just received my clip ons to add to my didy's, and am waiting to receive a tutorial on working boro on an oxycon set up. This thread will be a welcome addition to my arsenal as I try boro for the 1st time, thank you all!
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  #208  
Old 2012-03-10, 2:07pm
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Go Eileen!
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  #209  
Old 2012-03-10, 4:36pm
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Enjoy Eileen boro is lots of fun
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  #210  
Old 2012-04-10, 6:24pm
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Keep the info coming some of us are learning a lot! Thanks
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