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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #1  
Old 2010-03-16, 10:23am
2kids&atorch's Avatar
2kids&atorch 2kids&atorch is offline
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Default How to get an even end on tubing using flame?

New to boro. Glass addicted. Working on a Lynx so somewhat heat limited, but making it work. My question is: How can I get an evenly cut piece of tubing for implosions? The flame either collapses the tubing or gives me an uneven, wobbly mess. In a similar vein, I'll be using the tubing to try some implosions. So how do I remove the implosion from the tubing without creating a large bubble in the lens (ack!) or, without ruining the lens in general? Your help would be appreciated!
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  #2  
Old 2010-03-16, 2:30pm
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As far as the cutting goes - I always use a knife to score the glass all around, and then snap it off. Works like a charm...
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Last edited by Over the Moon; 2010-03-17 at 3:52am.
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Old 2010-03-16, 4:49pm
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Punty up to the implosion side then dial in a real small, hot flame. Heat right where the tube joins the pendant. Then blow and pull the tube. Burn through the thin bulb. Melt in and tweeze any bubbles/scratches.
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Old 2010-03-16, 5:12pm
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Alison - check out Mr. Smiley's post on pulling points and tubing implosions it explains everything very nicely. If you have any more questions after watching come on back!

Edit: Removing the implosion from the tubing is at 14:12 in the second video. I do it a little different, I blow it out like he does, then I heat a small bit, and pop a hole and then flame cut around in a circle. I'm not good enough yet to do it all in one step like Brent does
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  #5  
Old 2010-03-17, 3:16am
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There are more than 2 or 3 different ways to remove the tube from the lens side. I heat the area where the tube and the pendant body join, blow thin and then pop a small hole, heat through the tube to the opposite side before rotating and tearing off...I think this is the easiest way and it does take a little practice. You can also, heat the conjunction of body and tube, pull it a little thin and then....simply let it melt closed..... don't let this area cool, and put it in the flame right where the thinned area is....because there is air trapped there it will expand....use a piece of clear rod to "jab" the middle of that thinned area, rotate the pendant from the punty and it will tear out your middle. You'll be glad you practiced one of these down the road. Good luck....it really helps if you can see a person to this while you watch and ask questions. If you can find someone, hit them up.
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Old 2010-03-17, 6:01am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2kids&atorch View Post
New to boro. Glass addicted. Working on a Lynx so somewhat heat limited, but making it work. My question is: How can I get an evenly cut piece of tubing for implosions? The flame either collapses the tubing or gives me an uneven, wobbly mess. In a similar vein, I'll be using the tubing to try some implosions. So how do I remove the implosion from the tubing without creating a large bubble in the lens (ack!) or, without ruining the lens in general? Your help would be appreciated!
I'm not sure what you mean by "evenly cut piece of tubing". It doesn't matter what the end of the tube looks like. Just melt it down, clean it up, and use it. If you are melting the tube down too quickly, you are using too much heat. Remember that even if the tube is 1" in diameter, the walls are only 2-3mm thick, so it won't take that much heat.

As for removing the implosion from a tube, just heat all the way around the tube where it joins the lens. Then blow while pulling the punty/pendant away from the tube. This will thin the tube out and blow it into a large bubble. Then just flame cut it off.

If you'll excuse the shameless self promotion, this technique is covered in one of my books - http://www.cosmoglassworks.com/store...ge=&featured=Y

You aren't limited on a Lynx. 90% of what I make I can make on a Lynx. Everything in any of my books can be done on a Lynx.
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