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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #3121  
Old 2011-07-11, 7:49am
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I'm going to use only Devardi this whole week & post my results. Here's the Devardi's Semi Opaque Light Lime Green with their spiral press.

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  #3122  
Old 2011-07-11, 7:53am
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Default Devardi Teddy Bears

.:**:..:**:.
A while back I started making Character Teddy Bears... I hope to do a Tutorial on them at some point. Some Devardi glass really holds it's shape in the flame and is a sculptural joy to work with.
  #3123  
Old 2011-07-11, 7:57am
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Those are so cute!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fine Folly Glassworks View Post
.:**:..:**:.
A while back I started making Character Teddy Bears... I hope to do a Tutorial on them at some point. Some Devardi glass really holds it's shape in the flame and is a sculptural joy to work with.
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♥.:**:.♥.: Bethany :.♥.:**:.♥
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  #3124  
Old 2011-07-11, 8:06am
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.•:**:•..•:**:•.
Thank you Bethany. I figure we can all use some light things to make us smile about now.
  #3125  
Old 2011-07-11, 8:17am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formed In Fire View Post
I am sorry - I have read this thread and none of the tips stand out.
The only thing that resonates in my little brain is all the fighting.
I just started working with this glass and really just wanted to read tips, but this is not the thread for that anymore.

I am not a bully trying to get this thread deleted - I just think that at this time is it kinda useless....
There are many free Tutorials on the Devardi website that give detailed help to those who are beginning. If you go to the bar across the page and look for 'Tutorials' you will see the free PDF tutorials I have devoted to help people. Devardi also has many videos to watch for free.

If you want to know about something please ask. You will find help and support here. We can't prevent the ones who cause the strife from posting here, so we just have to help and enjoy around them.

  #3126  
Old 2011-07-11, 8:18am
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There are plenty of tips in this thread. A better suggestion would be for the haters to go start an "I hate Devardi" thread. Then maybe this thread could actually be for tips, pictures & technical tips for Devardi glass.
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  #3127  
Old 2011-07-11, 8:26am
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Actually, if some one who is interested in really learning about this glass, there is a huge amount of information in this thread. Simply skip over the personal stuff and and read the information that is relevant to the glass. There isn't any need to start a new thread.

Personally, I love the glass, I love the customer service. That doesn't mean I don't have problems with some of it, and there are a couple of colors that I simply can't use. But I have that issue with every brand, I like most of it but there are some colors and/or types that don't particularly suit me. But I am not going to stop buying something simply because I have an issue with some things, be it Devardi, Effetre or anything else.

I don't care if you love it, hate it or don't care, but it would be nice if we could focus on what this thread is about, which is the technical and practical applications for using this glass. If you don't like it, I'm fine with that and don't have a problem with your saying so, but can we keep it to the technical issues and leave the emotions out of it?

For those of us who love it, I understand the desire to defend it, but there just like religion and politics, you aren't going to change someone's mind, whose mind is made up and that's okay. We need to stay focused on the technical parts too, those who really want to learn about the glass will do so and that's really what this thread is for.
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  #3128  
Old 2011-07-11, 8:32am
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Does this glass anneal at a different temp than effetre? I made a couple of test beads and they are cracking.
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Last edited by Formed In Fire; 2011-07-11 at 8:36am. Reason: spelling
  #3129  
Old 2011-07-11, 8:36am
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Michelle, my kiln is set at 950 and I anneal all of my glass except boro at this temp. What colors were you using?
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  #3130  
Old 2011-07-11, 8:38am
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Hard to know what colors -
A sop blue, a transparent med pink, and a sop light pink.

Yep - thats what my kiln anneals at also.
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  #3131  
Old 2011-07-11, 8:40am
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Let me see if I can find the email Natasha sent me that I posted several pages back.
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  #3132  
Old 2011-07-11, 8:45am
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Okay here is the part to do with cracking. And I tend to forget to adjust my torch when I work with this glass, I am going to have to post this where I can see it on my bench lol.

The one thing I wanted to mention is that there are a number of factors that can cause cracking. Obviously, incompatibility is one. And when people have a cracking problem, they often assume it is a compatibility issue, especially when they are careful not to do other things that can lead to cracking. The point is though, most of the combinations you have tried without success, we have tested and retested successfully. Some of those we have posted on our website. The only conclusion that can be reached if this is the case is that there are other factors involved that could be leading to your cracking problem other than compatibility issues.



Let's consider this. Below is a picture of the Devardi bi-color rods we sell:









http://www.devardiglass.com/Chevron3s.JPG

All of these colors have an Op. White core. If the transparents were incompatible with Op. White, the factory would not be able to make these rods. When you make a bead with these rods, the white thoroughly mixes with the transparents, and without cracking. Again, this would indicate the Op. White is very compatible with Devardi transparents.



Because we have had success with the combinations you mention, and because these bi-color, opaque white core rods are readily available, this must lead us to conclude your cracking is caused by something else other than a compatibility issue. I would assume, as skilled as you are at lampworking, that you heat the bead properly before annealing and then immediately anneal. I think you even mentioned on LE that you do this. So it is unlikely that this is where the problem lies.



However, there is another factor involved with Devardi Glass that a lot of people overlook that can lead to cracking. People who have been lampworking for a long time with various brands of glass are often used to a particular heat setting on their torch, usually a midrange oxygen/propane mix. Two things though, one, Devardi Glass is a much cooler temperature glass (meaning it is formulated to be worked cooler) and two, it is a stiffer glass than most other brands. This stiffness can lead people to overheat the glass. People who are used to glass that flows easily often try to make Devardi Glass flow the same. This requires more heat since Devardi will not flow like say Moretti at the same temp. But to raise the heat that high can ruin some of the properties of Devardi glass, which can lead to cracking later. Of all the factors that can cause glass to crack, I would way this is the number one issue with Devardi. It is a problem since Devardi entered the scene long after people got used to working other, more pliable glass at hotter temperatures.



So the bottom line is, be very careful not to overheat the glass. You can use an Oxygen/propane setup. We do. But just cut the oxygen down so the flame is on the feathery side. If you run a Hothead type torch, be careful even with this one. It too can reach temperatures that can “scald” Devardi Glass. Work the glass with tools to shape it, rather than try to heat it to make it flow to shape. Be careful not to make it flow like Moretti and others. This is not correct for Devardi Glass. I think you will have better success with your combinations at lower temperatures. I can relate to this, because this is what I ran into when I first started with the glass myself. It took some time for me to realize I had to reduce that flame.
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  #3133  
Old 2011-07-11, 8:48am
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Lovely spiraled green beads, Vivian. I like how you used that spiral press!
  #3134  
Old 2011-07-11, 8:51am
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Thanks Sonja,
I tried to melt this with a cooler flame and it took forever to melt. Two little spacers with a ruffle around them. I actually felt like I was working on my old HH instead of the minor.
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  #3135  
Old 2011-07-11, 9:04am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formed In Fire View Post
Thanks Sonja,
I tried to melt this with a cooler flame and it took forever to melt. Two little spacers with a ruffle around them. I actually felt like I was working on my old HH instead of the minor.

Yes I ran into this also. I just reread the email and am wondering if it would work better if I just up the propane and lower the oxygen. I am used to melting things pretty quickly now so its tough for me to slow down. Although I do melt boro on my circket and its even slower lol. I think I need another concentrator lol.
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  #3136  
Old 2011-07-11, 9:06am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverRiverJewelry View Post
Yes I ran into this also. I just reread the email and am wondering if it would work better if I just up the propane and lower the oxygen. I am used to melting things pretty quickly now so its tough for me to slow down. Although I do melt boro on my circket and its even slower lol. I think I need another concentrator lol.
I dont think I could melt boro on my minor - never tried. Too impatient for that.
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  #3137  
Old 2011-07-11, 9:33am
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"Yeah" I received my Frog Green today.

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SRA#P109
  #3138  
Old 2011-07-11, 9:46am
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Cynthia, here is what I know about the copper black:

Audra got it to go copper doing this (her words)
"I'll tell ya i sent Natasha (spelling?) a message and she told me take the room temp rod turn your torch up as high as it will go and quickly pass the glass through the flame near the torch head and tada i got copper after about 5 min of trying will let ya know when i get it to do that with a bead I'm so excited."

I can't find the post and I think it might have been in the bathroom, but around the same time Audra also posted what she was told in an email by Natasha about copper black. In a nutshell, if you anneal the bead the copper disappears. That isn't going to work for me. So I stopped trying to make it work and used it up making production beads.
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  #3139  
Old 2011-07-11, 9:46am
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Me too Bethany and Jazarra. Please just take the good, and overlook the attacks... they do stop and go away after a while.


Do any of you remember when we were making faces with the salmon? Might have to revisit that...
  #3140  
Old 2011-07-11, 9:56am
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Folly isn't the spokesperson for Devardi. She's someone that uses the glass & is trying to share her experiences to help people see the glass in finished beads.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leslie Dana View Post
Hitler and abused kids, really?? WTH is wrong with you folly? You are doing Devardi glass more harm than good, time for them to fire you Their spokeperson appears to have gone rabid!!!

After your actions here I would not use this glass if they paid ME!
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  #3141  
Old 2011-07-11, 10:09am
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I am new too lampworking and as I am gathering supplies I came across devardi and noticed there very cheap prices so I was trying to find out in a constructive thread (so I thought) about how this glass performs and why is it so much cheaper . I am also interested in there mini kiln that I am waiting for them to get in stock again . If anyone has some honest information about devardi ,there glass , or kilns please feel free to private message me . Otherwise I feel I am done visiting THIS thread as it is really not about what it set out to be : (
  #3142  
Old 2011-07-11, 10:11am
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Periwinkle..good for you on the results with the peach I find the Indian marbled colors also do the same..easy to get into the flame and don't shatter.
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  #3143  
Old 2011-07-11, 10:19am
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I buy glass from every single glass manufacturer out there. There are problems with certain colors from all of them. Not sure why this thread has turned in to a big argument. I honestly haven't had a problem with any of the devardi colors I've used. I do preheat them in my rod warmer. I haven't had any dirty or broken rods that I recall.
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  #3144  
Old 2011-07-11, 10:33am
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I've had a few broken ones,Viv..but I have bought a lot of it and one day my neighbor told me that my UPS guy tossed a box of glass on my porch.When I think of all the places and handling mine goes through from the company and how stuff gets tossed around..it never surprises me.I get a few broken rods now and then from everyone i order from.I never usually blame the company because everyone packs stuff pretty well.However..that particular box that got tossed on my porch was Zimmermann cane and I was not a real happy camper with the UPS guy..so I did explain about what those fragile boxes contain and he apologized..he and his wife do stained glass together.He said he didn't think he tossed it..just slid it up there and was in a hurry.Now..I haven't ever gotten dirty glass..that would be an issue I could blame a company on.I haven't yet.
Thats about all I know from personal experience.I have stopped buying glass..I have way too much and no room for it all..told someone the other day that I have enough to last me til I am 135 years old if i torch everyday..yikes!
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  #3145  
Old 2011-07-11, 10:34am
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I totally agree with this statement. I just purchased a new batch of CIM Cranberry and it's crackin' up a storm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VivianLampwork View Post
I buy glass from every single glass manufacturer out there. There are problems with certain colors from all of
them.
I'm done with this thread for now. I don't post here much anyway but I don't want to continue being a party to this back and forth argument. I just want to say as I leave, I agree with being able to post negative and positive about this glass or any glass. I don't agree with the way Kristina tried to get her point across. I think Kristina likes the glass and should be able too and not be called a "spokes person". How many rave about Double Helix and are not given that title? How many are paying ridiculous prices for Z99 and raving about it. I'm sure if the company was still in business, the ravers would not be called spokes people. If this were the case, I think Double Helix would win for the most spokes people hands down. I wouldn't be one of them though, I'm not that fond of silver glass

The end....hope all goes well.
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  #3146  
Old 2011-07-11, 10:36am
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Cynthia did you see my post about the copper black?
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  #3147  
Old 2011-07-11, 10:38am
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Woops....no. I have to go back. Hold on.

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Cynthia did you see my post about the copper black?
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  #3148  
Old 2011-07-11, 10:41am
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Oh wow. Well the whole annealing thing blows it for me too. They need to put that note on the site. I don't know if it's there now but a while back nothing was posted about that. I only have a couple of rods of it.
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  #3149  
Old 2011-07-11, 10:59am
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Clarification on the Coppery Black. I found the part I was looking for. It was an email to RareRipes. It's not that you can't anneal, but most of us aren't going to buy a new annealer to be able to make the coppery black work. Here is what was said in the email:

"As you probably know, the Coppery Black is a fussy one. I guess anything
beautiful is never easy. Anyway, I have found it is best to anneal the
Coppery Black directly from the torch, rather than batch anneal from cold.
If you can do that, you should have better luck. Another thing that can
affect the copper sheen is the oxygen content in the kiln, believe it or
not. I have had the best luck annealing the Coppery Black with our mini
annealer since it remains open at all times, allowing air in. I know you
don't have one of these, but experimenting with the opening on your kiln may
help.

One more thing I have found. The Coppery Black has a base glass of the Op.
Hi Density Black. It is a very dense glass. I have found that the beads do
very well without annealing. I rarely lose any of them to cracking, and I
have a lot that I never annealed, something also to consider if you continue
to have problems."
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  #3150  
Old 2011-07-11, 11:03am
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And yet another thread having to be closed and possible valuable information not being posted because people cannot handle posting without personal attacks and arguing. It is not necessary to argue, you may state your opinion and leave it at that.
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