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| Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips |
2010-05-17, 11:57am
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FireDancer Glass
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Join Date: Oct 20, 2005
Location: Banks, OR
Posts: 884
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etching time
I bought some etching liquid to play around with and wondering what the average time on beads are? The back says 5-10 minutes but that really did nothing to my spacers!
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Christy
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2010-05-17, 12:26pm
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Experimentalist
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Join Date: Nov 15, 2005
Location: Penryn, California
Posts: 6,758
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I thought the same once so gave my beads a much better soaking. Apparently if you don't baking soda neutralize them the etching process can continue on, even when the bead is removed from the solution and rinsed.
I ended up with something that resembled the surface of the moon. 
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2010-05-17, 12:43pm
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FireDancer Glass
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Join Date: Oct 20, 2005
Location: Banks, OR
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So how long did you do them for?
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Every artist dips his brush in his own soul, and paints his own nature into his pictures.
Henry Ward Beecher
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Christy
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2010-05-17, 1:03pm
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Ass-kicking Cephalopod
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Join Date: Jun 19, 2006
Location: Duh, Squidville
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What COE glass are you etching? 104 etches much more easily then say, Bullseye.
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DOG is my co-pilot
Cricket w/two 5 lpm oxycons - and sometimes a Minor.
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2010-05-17, 2:04pm
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I'm a lilac!
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Join Date: Jun 09, 2005
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 8,793
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I never had good success chemically etching Bullseye... it just didn't do well and I ended up with a weird wormy surface texture.
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-Kalera
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2010-05-17, 2:13pm
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Experimentalist
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Join Date: Nov 15, 2005
Location: Penryn, California
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It was Effetre and I probably doubled the soaking time.
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2010-05-17, 2:40pm
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I'm a lilac!
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Join Date: Jun 09, 2005
Location: Portland, Oregon
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I've heard of people having problems because the stuff was old and had been in the store for a long time just sitting on the shelf, but I don't know how you would tell.
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-Kalera
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2010-05-17, 4:52pm
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FireDancer Glass
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Join Date: Oct 20, 2005
Location: Banks, OR
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I have a little of both and the 104 did better than the bullseye. I am using Etch Bath and it has little glass pieces in it. Is that normal for a etching liquid to have glass?
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Henry Ward Beecher
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Christy
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2010-05-17, 5:00pm
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I'm a lilac!
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Join Date: Jun 09, 2005
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Hmmm. No, I don't think so. It almost sounds like someone returned it and they put it back on the shelf for resale.
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-Kalera
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2010-05-17, 5:12pm
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Entropy increasing....
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Join Date: Nov 12, 2005
Location: In a box of paints
Posts: 25,098
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Some glass won't etch if you leave it there overnight. Like some of the CIM glass.
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2010-05-17, 5:44pm
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FireDancer Glass
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Join Date: Oct 20, 2005
Location: Banks, OR
Posts: 884
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It was totally sealed! I am going to look up the brand and contact them or the store!
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Every artist dips his brush in his own soul, and paints his own nature into his pictures.
Henry Ward Beecher
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Christy
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2010-05-18, 3:55am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 30, 2005
Location: Southern Michigan
Posts: 353
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Could it have been crystals and not glass? If so, you need to shake it up more.
What color was the solution?
Bullseye doesn't etch well with Etch All. Especially the transparents.
I usually start with between 2 1/2 and 3 minutes and neutralize in milk instead of baking soda solution. Someone here posted about how it produces a "silkier" finish, and I haven't went back. It does sour the milk though so do not use this method if you are grossed out by instant chunky milk.
Kay
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2010-05-18, 6:05am
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She's Back & Burnin'
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Join Date: Jun 11, 2005
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 3,117
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I prefer the etching cream to the liquid, even though the liquid was easier to use.
I never heard of neutralizing in milk. hmmm...that could get expensive though. I always use baking soda.
Sara
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2010-05-18, 6:31am
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Elphaba Lives !!
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Join Date: Oct 29, 2007
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jenn L'Rhe
Could it have been crystals and not glass? If so, you need to shake it up more.
What color was the solution?
Bullseye doesn't etch well with Etch All. Especially the transparents.
I usually start with between 2 1/2 and 3 minutes and neutralize in milk instead of baking soda solution. Someone here posted about how it produces a "silkier" finish, and I haven't went back. It does sour the milk though so do not use this method if you are grossed out by instant chunky milk.
Kay
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Cool !! I'm gonna have to try milk now - just to watch it instantly curdle !! LOL
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~Kathy
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2010-05-18, 9:23am
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FireDancer Glass
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Join Date: Oct 20, 2005
Location: Banks, OR
Posts: 884
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The chunks are not crystal size, they look like glass but I think it is plastic, I was able to break a chunk. Some of them are 1/4 size of my pinky nail, so visible. The color of the liquid is a puky brown!
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Every artist dips his brush in his own soul, and paints his own nature into his pictures.
Henry Ward Beecher
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Christy
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2010-05-18, 9:27am
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FireDancer Glass
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Join Date: Oct 20, 2005
Location: Banks, OR
Posts: 884
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Called craft store and they said NO, there should not be any floating pieces of plastic or glass in the product, so I will bring it back and get a new one. Maybe this batch was bad and that is why it is not etching well. I may trade it for the creme.
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Every artist dips his brush in his own soul, and paints his own nature into his pictures.
Henry Ward Beecher
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Christy
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2010-05-18, 1:16pm
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Experimentalist
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Join Date: Nov 15, 2005
Location: Penryn, California
Posts: 6,758
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My etch cream (and liquid) are always white... not brown. Shrug
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2010-05-18, 1:27pm
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honorary bead lady
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Join Date: Jan 14, 2008
Location: Mostly the doghouse
Posts: 5,180
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Christy
For less money go to the hardware store and buy the Whink rust stain remover.
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David
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2010-05-18, 1:52pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 30, 2005
Location: Southern Michigan
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David,
I've only had luck with Whink removing the gray scum off turquoise, copper green etc. Have you tried it on transparents?
Kay
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2010-05-18, 1:55pm
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Tacki
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Join Date: Oct 26, 2008
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 1,543
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If it doesn't work you can mail me the beads and I'll try tumble etching them for you.
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2010-05-18, 2:19pm
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honorary bead lady
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Join Date: Jan 14, 2008
Location: Mostly the doghouse
Posts: 5,180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jenn L'Rhe
David,
I've only had luck with Whink removing the gray scum off turquoise, copper green etc. Have you tried it on transparents?
Kay
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I haven't done any transparents yet, will go test some rods, you do have to let this stuff soak a while to etch as it's less than 3.5%
I did a lt ivory base seahorse bead and forgot about it, it soaked for more than 24 hours
Please see post #13 for IMPORTANT information... http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=162234
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David
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2010-05-18, 5:56pm
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FireDancer Glass
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Join Date: Oct 20, 2005
Location: Banks, OR
Posts: 884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracidawn78
If it doesn't work you can mail me the beads and I'll try tumble etching them for you.
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Where did you get your tumbler? Are they spendy or a good investment?
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Every artist dips his brush in his own soul, and paints his own nature into his pictures.
Henry Ward Beecher
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Christy
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2010-05-18, 5:57pm
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FireDancer Glass
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Join Date: Oct 20, 2005
Location: Banks, OR
Posts: 884
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I traded my stuff in for the etch creme and seemed to work good but left them in for 2 hours and then put them in baking soda water to get all the creme off. Some beads seemed to etch better than others, guess it is a PPP thing too!
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Every artist dips his brush in his own soul, and paints his own nature into his pictures.
Henry Ward Beecher
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Christy
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2010-05-18, 6:11pm
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Tacki
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Join Date: Oct 26, 2008
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 1,543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgreagor
Where did you get your tumbler? Are they spendy or a good investment?
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Fantastic investment, yes. Let me dig up my old thread when I bought it so you can read everything I learned...
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2010-05-18, 6:13pm
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Tacki
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Join Date: Oct 26, 2008
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 1,543
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http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ghlight=tumble
I got the 2 barrel Lortone tumbler. I believe I bought it all from Kingsley North because it was the only place I could buy everything I needed at once (tumbler, silicon carbide grit, SS shot).
I love it because I can etch beads with one, and at the same time polish my silver cored beads with the shot in the other barrel. I love this so much more than the chemical etching.
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2010-05-18, 6:52pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 30, 2005
Location: Southern Michigan
Posts: 353
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Christy,
When using cream, you may want to take a toothbrush with baking soda solution to them to be sure to get all of the residue off. It will stay "active" until removed.
Kay
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2010-05-18, 7:11pm
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Ass-kicking Cephalopod
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Join Date: Jun 19, 2006
Location: Duh, Squidville
Posts: 9,523
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My etching liquid has always been brown - that is normal.
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DOG is my co-pilot
Cricket w/two 5 lpm oxycons - and sometimes a Minor.
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2010-05-19, 8:16am
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I'm a lilac!
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Join Date: Jun 09, 2005
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 8,793
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Kind of as an aside, I've had this tumbler for at least 7 years: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00027P8E4
Based on the reviews it's kinda crappy for rocks, but it does a perfectly good job of tumbling beads. I use it about once a week, overnight with fine grit and some tumbling media from Harbor Freight.
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-Kalera
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2010-05-19, 9:55am
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FireDancer Glass
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Join Date: Oct 20, 2005
Location: Banks, OR
Posts: 884
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Thanks for the info guys!
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Every artist dips his brush in his own soul, and paints his own nature into his pictures.
Henry Ward Beecher
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Christy
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2010-05-19, 3:57pm
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honorary bead lady
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Join Date: Jan 14, 2008
Location: Mostly the doghouse
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OK I tested 5 transparent glass rods with the Whink.
After 24 hours... NOTHING!
So now I have turquoise and white in there.
Edit to add After 24 hrs the turquoise and white rods both etched, so I now have more rods soaking. I will post the results later.
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David
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