Etching question

playswithfire104 · #1 2007-02-12, 7:39pm

I understand that you can use nail polish to cover parts of a bead that you do not want etched. When removing the nail polish - with nail polish remover I assume - will it effect the bead at all?

meadowesky · #2 2007-02-12, 7:41pm

nope

atleast not as far as I can tell.

artwhim · #3 2007-02-12, 11:35pm

If you use slick fabric paint it peels off easily after etching.

Emily · #4 2007-02-13, 12:08am

A lot of the time the nail polish comes right off, too.

Kevan · #5 2007-02-13, 12:09am

I just use acrylic paint. Glossy finish acrylic paints. I put two coats on for good measure. It wipes right of when you dry the bead.

playswithfire104 · #6 2007-02-13, 12:27pm

Cool. Thanks everyone!

mewkittie · #7 2007-02-13, 9:50pm

I just found something that works great for masking areas that you don't want etched. It's called Masquepen. It comes in a bottle that has a fine tip and it's easy to apply. It peels off afterwards, most of the time all in one piece. I like it better than glue because the bottle has a fine tip (I'm lazy). I've tried nail polish too and I make more of a mess than getting it on the right spots. They also sell a really fine "SuperNib" that really gives you great control. Their website is: www.masquepen.com. I don't work for the company, and I'm not endorsing their product. It's just the best thing that I like to use for masking on beads.

Susan

meadowesky · #8 2007-02-13, 10:14pm

That looks great! Looks like Dick Blick carries it and since Shane works there = 30% off for me!!. Pm me if you want one, I will check the for sure price tomarrow.

Feldt's Glass · #9 2007-02-13, 11:23pm

I just started to etch some beads and am having troube with the etch being even, and some bead parts (transparent) didn't etch much even after a half hour. I think my solution is bad. What does etch all look like new? Mine was a icky brown from the start. I purchased it in nov. from frantz and just go around to opening it.

meadowesky · #10 2007-02-14, 1:53am

I have had mine for about 6months now and it is still fine. It is pretty sick looking now.

Carolyn M · #11 2007-02-14, 8:08am

Etch All is brown to start and it gets 'muddier' as time goes on.

squid · #12 2007-02-14, 8:15am

Quote:

Originally Posted by meadowesky

That looks great! Looks like Dick Blick carries it and since Shane works there = 30% off for me!!. Pm me if you want one, I will check the for sure price tomarrow.

Dewd - I want one of those

Shane works at Dick Blick? Can you say BONANZA!?!?!?

meadowesky · #13 2007-02-15, 5:54pm

From what I can tell so far they are out of stock until the 22nd. I will have shane talk to them and see if they can get them sooner and if not an exact total with the 30% off. Now sometimes they take the 30% off the retail price and on somethings it comes off the actual price. God forbid they go on sale cause then we get nothing off and their sales suck.

Just wanted to check in and let you all know. I did get a few PM's but figured this would be the best place to respond.
Thanks

hannahbeads · #14 2007-02-16, 8:19am

I've used an etching creme, but want to try a liquid. Do you think I can just dilute the creme? Has anyone tried this? I don't want to ruin the whole jar in case it does not work. Thanks for any help.

Carolyn M · #15 2007-02-16, 8:52am

I'm not sure this would work Hannah. If you dilute it it may lose it's effectiveness and you could end up with splotchy, partially etched beads.

playswithfire104 · #16 2007-02-16, 9:34am

I was just gonna start another etching thread but I'll just post my new question here. I have been expermenting with etching beads and I'm going etching crazy! I have a small (3 oz) bottle of Armour Etch that is years old. It is a cream and the only thing I have ever used. I think because it is a few years old it has lost some of its oomph so it takes longer to get the beads etched that the directions say. But I don't really mind. My question is what etching solution do you use and why do you like it? I'm probably going to need more etching solution within a week or two and would like some ideas of what to get. What are the benefits of cream or liquid? What brands do you like? Where do you get it?

Suzette · #17 2007-02-16, 7:53pm

I use Etch Bath, only because I can buy it at a Michael's craft store with one of their 40% off coupons. I really prefer Etch All, the clear liquid version of the Armour Etch creme. The solution is clear when fresh and darkens as it ages. All of the liquids lose their effectiveness as they age no matter what the company that makes it says.

I tried diluting the etch creme with water when I was really desperate to complete an order, and the etch was really rough, not soft and silky.

The transparent colors of Moretti take longer to etch than the opaques, so if you have old etching solution, keep it for etching opaque beads and get new solution for the transparent colors.

And, if you're really determined to etch a bead with old solution, you can try warming the etching solution in a hot water bath (DO NOT breath in the fumes, turn on an exhaust fan).

meadowesky · #18 2007-02-17, 1:33pm

I use etch all liquid but I tried the cream first. The cream sucks.
it is messy, hard to get the whole thing covered and you waste so much of it with use. with the liquid I pretty much still have a full container although it probably is time to replace mine too.

Carolyn M · #19 2007-02-18, 7:36pm

I use Etch All, I get it from Michaels. Mine is brown to start though (as far as I remember)

jesgen · #20 2007-02-18, 8:02pm

Alert!!!!!!!!!!
I worked in the clean room for Agilent for awhile. There I learned the dangers of Hydrofluoric acid, the ingredient of glass etching solutions that etches the glass. This acid is very dangerious!!! You probably will not feel it if you get it on you. It is absorbed into the skin and the acid goes stright for your bones. It wants calcium. By the time you feel it, it is already doing damage to your bones. Be very very careful when using this stuff. Wear acid proof gloves that you are sure do not have holes in them and wash dilgently after using it. Make sure you clean up your work area afterwards too! Keep away from children and pets!
Jerry

playswithfire104 · #21 2007-02-18, 10:00pm

Jerry what kind of gloves are acid proof? Is Hydrofluric Acid in all etching solutions?

jesgen · #22 2007-02-18, 10:21pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by playswithfire104

Jerry what kind of gloves are acid proof? Is Hydrofluric Acid in all etching solutions?

You will have to check the label on the etch cream bottle, but to the best of knowledge Hydrofluric Acid is the only acid that erodes glass. That is why it is in plastic containers.
As for gloves, again you will have to check the labels when you are shopping. I have not bought any. I would expect you could find some at Home Depot, Ace Hardware, etc. At Agilent they had plastic or similar type glove. Those that handled this acid wore two pairs of gloves, in case one pair had a hole in them. The amount of acid in the etch cream must not be as concentrated since there is not that much of a warning on the labels.
Jerry

hotfire210 · #23 2007-02-19, 12:21pm

There is an excellent book on etching and sandblasting by Norm and Ruth Dobbins...basically everything you want to know on the subject. They have a section about Etch All (safer) and Armour Etch and their respective ingredients. I definitely would not use Armour Etch.

LyndaJ · #24 2007-02-19, 1:19pm

check this site. http://www.fap.pdx.edu/safety/hydrofluoric_acid/ They recommend 2 pairs of nitrile gloves. Latex won't help. And I wouldn't recommend heating this acid. We used to use it in the labs in college. BE VERY CAREFUL!

Emily · #25 2007-02-19, 2:25pm

The Etch All products are ammonium bifluoride, not hydrofluoric acid. It's not quite as bad, but it's still not something you want to be casual about.

beadgirl · #26 2007-02-19, 8:09pm

Chemical gloves at home depot in the pool section. Paint departments also carry them where the furniture strippers are. Pinch a penny pool stores too. Make sure they are for ''chemicals".
Anneal beads,then etch and I read a post that you should soak them in some solution so they do not continue to deteriate?
MarieAnn

playswithfire104 · #27 2007-02-19, 9:07pm

I rinse them in water with baking soda added. I believe that is supposed to nutralize (sp?) the etching solution.

beadgirl · #28 2007-02-20, 7:25am

Thank you made my first beads this week! If I can firgure out how to anneal them, then etch I'll be good to go. I purchased Etch Bath at Michaels and wanted to make sure they won't break down, not that pretty but I want to keep my first ones.
Lol, MarieAnn

bclogan · #29 2007-02-20, 9:28am

I soak mine in water with Baking Soda and Tums for about 5-10 minutes. Then I rinse really well.

ziggys · #30 2007-05-05, 7:30pm

FWIW, I spilled some Etch All or a similiar brand (not cream) on my hands. I panicked and called the poison control center. I am phobic around chemicals.
Anyway they told me not to worry, and just to wash my hands with soap and water. And that plain soap and water works really well for anything chemical spill on the body. The person told me it was really not a problem and I felt much better after calling them. They said it took A LOT of the stuff to leach into the bones.
I've also read that baking soda helps to neutralize the acid when rinsing the beads.
So yes be careful but don't worry about using it.
Angela