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Jelveh Designs - Glass Beads Torched One-by-One

Beads of Courage


 

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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #1  
Old 2015-12-29, 3:57pm
St3wY St3wY is offline
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Default December Show and Tell

Hey everybody!

Hope you all had a good Christmas. I don't post much but I haven't seen a December show and tell yet. So, I figured I'd get one started before the new years!

I've recently been working on my fuming techniques and have picked up a lot of tricks from past threads from you guys! Anyways I just have a few gold and silver fume implosions to show. I think i'm finally getting it and I'm proud of the color on these haha.

Can't wait to see all the cool stuff everybody has!

P.S. I apologize for any images being rotated.
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  #2  
Old 2015-12-29, 10:07pm
caliglassguy caliglassguy is offline
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Really beautiful implosion!
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Old 2015-12-30, 12:23am
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St3wY, if you don't mind me asking...how do you make the imploded dots swirl? At what point do you do whatever it is you do to it?
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Old 2015-12-30, 9:50am
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Default Red work

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/at...49415951494159
Red can be a hard color in boro. It wants to burn and be brown and nasty. But not all the time!
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Old 2015-12-30, 9:55am
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The implosions are just amazing!
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  #6  
Old 2015-12-30, 10:46am
St3wY St3wY is offline
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Thank you Cali and Mina! Beautiful red flower implosion Mary! Amazing cane lines in those lower petals and I like how it varies between the red and red with white lines, looks really awesome! Very clean. Are there blues in the petals? That looks super awesome!!

Mina, to achieve the swirled implosion look here's what I do. Once you have your implosion at the point where you are ready to punty up to the bottom to detach from tube, rather then removing it right away, I leave it on the tube and reheat the entire implosion getting a nice deep core heat. Once it starts to get a little floppy ill stick my punty to the end and slowly start to rotate one hand slower then the other. Bringing the implosion in and out of the flame while twisting and pulling slightly. Keeping the entire cab evenly hot is key, without heating up where the tube is attached (you don't want to collapse your tubing side at all if possible). When the cab is in the flame and your getting that heat in, don't try and twist too aggressively because you'll have the punty side spin faster because naturally that's where there is more heat. Once in the flame and it's evenly hot take it out of flame and give it a more aggressive twisting motion while slightly pulling to keep your implosion centered. I'll usually twist and slightly pull out of the flame all the way til it starts cooling and you start seeing some devit or frostiness (dont worry, when you regather the devit will polish out). Then i remove punty, leaving it on tube and terminate the fume dots from the bottom with the intention of making a clean centered termination. Then, melt that terminated side back down to a cab/pendant sort of shape and let cool down. Next, re-punty and begin removing the cab from the tube like normal. Lense and throw some backing on it!

That might have been super confusing lol. Let me know if there's anything I can clear up. It might be possible and easier to deep heat your cab with it off the tube and have rod puntys on both sides when attempting to spin. This is something I haven't tried. The reason why I haven't is theoretically I assume the implosion gets a more solid swirl with the tube still attached because it is basically like having a punty all around the circumference of the circle allowing more of an even twist without swirling the center of your design too much. I guess it depends on what look your going for.

Okay i'll stop now. haha.

Last edited by St3wY; 2015-12-30 at 10:55am.
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  #7  
Old 2015-12-30, 11:13am
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Thanks St3wY
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