polishing big mandrel holes?

Eileen · #1 2013-01-01, 7:58pm

The only way I found to have a smooth, shiny, nice looking mandrel hole on large hold beads is to heat them in the kiln, then hold with tweezers (all I had) and hit the hole with some flame to fire polish the insides.

Is there another, easier way?

Sheila D. · #2 2013-01-01, 9:10pm

You're braver than me Eileen. I have tried Cerium Oxide, but it takes SO much elbow grease and I don't have the patience. I usually etch mine, then the matte finish blends in.

Judith Billig · #3 2013-01-01, 9:11pm

Did you try with wet sand paper, going up to ultra fine grids?

Eileen · #4 2013-01-01, 9:15pm

That's a good idea, I'll make one with etching in mind & see how I like it. I've seen some with very nice center holes though, like this one:
http://www.z-beads.com/Pics/2011/bluesdstar.html

I wonder if I'll ever figure it out.

Eileen · #5 2013-01-01, 9:16pm

Judith no, I have not. I do have some I bought to do my car headlights (sold the car before I used it), maybe I can try gluing it onto a dowel or something to get it in the center hole.

Judith Billig · #6 2013-01-01, 10:52pm

I think I read somewhere about it, someone is using this method.
I wanted to give it a try, as I have right now a big hole bead laying here that I would like to "wet sand" inside (sorry, don't know the proper name for it).
I'll let you know if I get anywhere with it.

Eileen · #7 2013-01-01, 11:04pm

Thank you. And maybe I'll make one to experiment on next time I'm at the torch.

This whole conversation is like deja vu, I have a feeling I asked before & forgot about it. I did a search but didn't find anything, so if I did ask, I must have used different terms. Anyway, I apologize if I'm repeating myself.

shawnette · #8 2013-01-02, 12:56am

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eileen

That's a good idea, I'll make one with etching in mind & see how I like it. I've seen some with very nice center holes though, like this one:
http://www.z-beads.com/Pics/2011/bluesdstar.html

I wonder if I'll ever figure it out.

Floor wax or clear nail polish.

Lisi · #9 2013-01-02, 1:12am

Start with a very smooth textured bead release like KRAG Mudd, and it is also very low residue. You won't get that powdery white hole with this release. Make sure when you dip, there are no tiny bubbles. Mandrels must be smooth too, because they can become a little rough if they have some rust on them. If rusty, even a tiny bit, clean with steel wool.

Dremel clean with a BeaDreamer bit. Art in the Round does not make a reamer for BHBs, but you can use any size. Clean the hole by using slow rotation of the bit around the hole (inside) several times. Use the floor wax or clear nail polish, and that is about the cleanest hole you're going to get.

Lisi · #10 2013-01-02, 1:15am

Oh...you must use the Dremel on low speed! Sorry, I forgot to add that.

Dee Dee · #11 2013-01-02, 1:43am

I have done it with sanding using finer grades - took some time though!

PerfectDeb · #12 2013-01-02, 5:46am

I use a chain saw sharpening fitting on a dremel, it's exactly the right size

http://www.gettoolsdirect.com.au/dre...ing-stone.html

istandalone24/7 · #13 2013-01-02, 7:20am

Quote:

Originally Posted by shawnette

Floor wax or clear nail polish.

this. clear nail polish works great.

cinder · #14 2013-01-02, 7:42am

Quote:

Originally Posted by shawnette

Floor wax or clear nail polish.

You know what's funny? A few months ago, someone asked about varnishing the inside of the hole and someone here started a lecture about how that varnish is eventually going to wear off etc...

But people on the WC forums have been talking about doing exactly this for years...

Amethyst_briolette · #15 2013-01-02, 8:06am

Epoxy for glass and crystal, just a thin coat will do it. Lasts longer than nail polish or floor wax.

Sheila D. · #16 2013-01-02, 8:14am

Nail polish didn't work for me, it eventually chipped off. Renaissance wax even helps to remove some of the chalkiness.

Three Muses Glass · #17 2013-01-02, 10:54am

I just do it the hard way, which isn't really that hard or time consuming. I'll start with 120 or 180 wet grit and work my way up through 2 or 3 more before hitting it with cerium as the last step. Right on the mandrel it was made on. 5-10 minutes total maybe.

Anne Londez · #18 2013-01-02, 11:37am

I have a very fine diamond bit that gives a smoother finish than the bead reamers I have. Now I have to figure out where I got it...

AlivELampworK · #19 2013-01-02, 11:38am

polishing with a variety of grits, all the way up to cerium oxide.

Anne Londez · #20 2013-01-02, 11:50am

Found it : http://www.lascodiamond.com/Dental/hpdiamonds.htm

It's CL44 and you can choose the coating when you order, from coarse to ultra-fine.

Alaska · #21 2013-01-02, 2:27pm

Widget has some 600 grit diamond burrs for $1.29 and less if more than on is purchased.

http://www.widgetsupply.com/category...ylinder-1.html

And some aluminum oxide abrasive wheels.

http://www.widgetsupply.com/product/WB12.html

Lisi · #22 2013-01-02, 8:44pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alaska

Widget has some 600 grit diamond burrs for $1.29 and less if more than on is purchased.

http://www.widgetsupply.com/category...ylinder-1.html

And some aluminum oxide abrasive wheels.

http://www.widgetsupply.com/product/WB12.html

Cool! Widgetsupply must have started carrying the straight shaft bits in the fine grades in recent years, because the only fine grade they had before was the ball-tipped.