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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2010-04-21, 9:45am
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Default large holed mandrels cheap

ok, this is what ive been using. its called welding electrodes, it comes with slag on it that i just pounded off in the driveway. it comes in sizes 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 3/16. mine are 14 inches long. he said they run about 2 dollars and 50 cents a pound. I got a can of them (they come in a long can) that has i swear about 100 of them, it says its 10 lbs. so basically around 20.00. anyone have reasons why i should not use these?
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  #2  
Old 2010-04-21, 12:44pm
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Um Are they stainless? Or just steel?
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  #3  
Old 2010-04-21, 1:04pm
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What David said.. what is the designation (what type of electrode) does it say on the canister. As a former welder (and instructor) I may be able to help you find a higher grade metal with which to make your mandrels.

Also, what you're calling slag is actually flux (although, if you're knocking it off the rods, it can sure FEEL like slag! ;} but you might have better luck getting TIG welding rod (no flux covering) in the sizes you want and cutting it down.

I'd need more info to be of much help, methinks. But am happy to try if you want to tag me (or PM me, whatever ;} and let me know what your requirements are for the mandrels you're making.

Best,

Rachel Kat
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  #4  
Old 2010-04-21, 3:14pm
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The reasons folks use stainless is that is has better resistance to the conditions that are present in the torch; heat and oxygen. Mild steel which is most likely what you have for arc welding rods can be cut using a cutting torch that uses oxygen for cutting.

The other issue is the flux. Is it a health hazard as an airborne power as you chip it off? Is it time consuming? Do the rods last? How many do you bend, etc.

However, you did ask about large hole mandrels that are cheap but did not define what large hole is. In my case large hole is 1/4 inch. For others it might be 3/8 inch or larger. There are places on the net that sell larger mandrels, but being inexpensive ('cheap') is not one of their attributes.

If you want to save dollars then a trip to your local steel supply house would be appropriate. Some stock stainless in a variety of grades and sizes. A twelve foot length of 1/4 inch round stainless rod is $6.32. Is that cheap?
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  #5  
Old 2010-04-21, 3:29pm
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I just bought 12 feet of 304 stainless for $.60/ft. Takes for ever to hacksaw, but you can cut it with your torch. Just mark where you want to cut, put it in the flame and spin it until it starts to spark. It is then about to melt just in that area and can be pulled apart. The ends oxidize and get bigger, so you will have to file or grind them.
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  #6  
Old 2010-04-21, 3:39pm
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Usually, where you buy the stainless steal, they can cut if for a nominal charge. Then, you just have to clean off the burrs with a drill bit that fits into the diameter.
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  #7  
Old 2010-04-21, 4:15pm
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Stainless steel is going for about $12 a pound last time I checked, and more than likely the price has gone up, not down. Those you have there are probably steel which will rust. But if they hold up in the flame, use them. But you might want to get some fine steel wool to clean them once they start rusting.
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  #8  
Old 2010-04-21, 4:18pm
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The 12 foot lengths you are talking about....does that come on a roll?? If so, how are your mandrels going to be straight? Even after cutting they will probably be a little warped.
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  #9  
Old 2010-04-21, 5:09pm
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A 12 foot length in steel lingo indicates that the product is one 12 foot long straight piece of material. Wire generally can be wound on spool and is somewhat flexible, but for 1/4 inch stainless steel rod it is straight.

It is tough to cut. On this end use a chop saw with an abrasive blade to cut, then a grinder to finish the ends. One can not 'cut' stainless steel with an oxygen-acetylene torch.

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  #10  
Old 2010-04-21, 5:38pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaska View Post
A 12 foot length in steel lingo indicates that the product is one 12 foot long straight piece of material. Wire generally can be wound on spool and is somewhat flexible, but for 1/4 inch stainless steel rod it is straight.

It is tough to cut. On this end use a chop saw with an abrasive blade to cut, then a grinder to finish the ends. One can not 'cut' stainless steel with an oxygen-acetylene torch.

Oh, I see! Did you have to get that delivered, or do you got a big dually looong bed and you picked it up yourself??

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  #11  
Old 2010-04-21, 6:03pm
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The mandrels i have are 14 inches long. They are 3/32 size, the size i was told you could do pandora without silver core. But i listed the sizes they come in above. They are already cut, 14 inches long, takes 2 sec to pound off the flux with a hammer, they dont bend at all. This is what i have been using. Just wanted to share cuz i know people are paying 4.00 a mandrel, these are cut already, the ends are flat already.sorry bout the caps, by the time i realized they were on, i was done and too laZy to fix it Just wanted to share the cheap thing ive been doing. In my metals class, there was no mention of flux being dangerous. but i pound mine off gently with a hammer in the driveway.
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  #12  
Old 2010-04-21, 6:21pm
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A bench grinder works great to cut mandrels. Simply keep spinning in one spot until it the rod gets thin enough to break apart. Then you can use the grinder to smooth out the ends.

Easy peasy
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  #13  
Old 2010-04-21, 6:55pm
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I use an angle grinder with a cut off wheel to slice through steel rods. Then put in a grinding wheel and clean up the ends.

I get mine at Home Depot, but I'm sure if I put some effort into it I could get them cheaper. But I don't do a lot of beads usually.
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  #14  
Old 2010-04-21, 8:05pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lisi View Post
Oh, I see! Did you have to get that delivered, or do you got a big dually looong bed and you picked it up yourself??

Lisi:

It is some project to get the stainless to the shop. Have to contract with the trucking firm to get it here and then call the folks with the crane to lift it off and place it on the rack.

plus equals stainless steel mandrels

Last edited by Alaska; 2010-04-22 at 1:06am.
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  #15  
Old 2010-04-21, 8:58pm
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LOL, I don't know why, but I seen that coming. LOL
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  #16  
Old 2010-04-22, 4:02am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellyhorton View Post
The mandrels i have are 14 inches long. They are 3/32 size, the size i was told you could do pandora without silver core. But i listed the sizes they come in above. They are already cut, 14 inches long, takes 2 sec to pound off the flux with a hammer, they dont bend at all. This is what i have been using. Just wanted to share cuz i know people are paying 4.00 a mandrel, these are cut already, the ends are flat already.sorry bout the caps, by the time i realized they were on, i was done and too laZy to fix it Just wanted to share the cheap thing ive been doing. In my metals class, there was no mention of flux being dangerous. but i pound mine off gently with a hammer in the driveway.
I know the larger mandrels can be pricey, but 3/32 shouldn't be one of them. You can get plain old TIG welding rod (314L, I think is what i use, I'll look for a stamp on a mandrel later, if I need to) very reasonably.

I think I've paid around $10-14 a pound for the welding rod in 3/32. It makes a LOT of 9-12 inch mandrels, as it comes in 3 foot lengths.

I've had difficulty finding larger than 3/32 welding rod locally, which is why when I ordered 3/8th mandrels, I did get them online. My welding shop was going to have to special order the rods and time wise, it wasn't worth the wait, because it wasn't going to be a huge savings.
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  #17  
Old 2010-04-22, 9:06am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellyhorton View Post
The mandrels i have are 14 inches long. They are 3/32 size, the size i was told you could do pandora without silver core. But i listed the sizes they come in above. They are already cut, 14 inches long, takes 2 sec to pound off the flux with a hammer, they dont bend at all. This is what i have been using. Just wanted to share cuz i know people are paying 4.00 a mandrel, these are cut already, the ends are flat already.sorry bout the caps, by the time i realized they were on, i was done and too laZy to fix it Just wanted to share the cheap thing ive been doing. In my metals class, there was no mention of flux being dangerous. but i pound mine off gently with a hammer in the driveway.
I don't know anything about welding electrodes, but 3/32 beads won't fit on a pandora style bracelet.
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  #18  
Old 2010-04-30, 5:09am
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omg, you crack me up


Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaska View Post
Lisi:

It is some project to get the stainless to the shop. Have to contract with the trucking firm to get it here and then call the folks with the crane to lift it off and place it on the rack.

plus equals stainless steel mandrels
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  #19  
Old 2010-04-30, 5:12am
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ok, for some reason, now, none of the beads will come off the mandrels. they worked great the first month i had them, WTF. I have fifty large holed beads that wont come off. Ive tried different consistencies with my bead release, nothing! I broke off a bead, and the bead release is all still in tact!!!! 4.00 a mandrel i guess is better than 20 hours of worthless beads. anyone want plant sticks????? they wont come off the new ones that im using for the first time, or the old ones. alsdkjf a;lwer jpaweiorp -thats polite cussing
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  #20  
Old 2010-05-01, 9:15am
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I just went down and bought a pound of 3/32" 316L TIG rod for just under $20 which was 14 rods. Less than a 1/2 hr to cut and grind the ends = 16-9" and 30-12"mandrels.

Kelly are you sure that you got stainless steel rods???
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Old 2010-05-01, 11:17am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellyhorton View Post
ok, for some reason, now, none of the beads will come off the mandrels. they worked great the first month i had them, WTF. I have fifty large holed beads that wont come off. Ive tried different consistencies with my bead release, nothing! I broke off a bead, and the bead release is all still in tact!!!! 4.00 a mandrel i guess is better than 20 hours of worthless beads. anyone want plant sticks????? they wont come off the new ones that im using for the first time, or the old ones. alsdkjf a;lwer jpaweiorp -thats polite cussing
Are you sure you heated them enough before you applied the glass?
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  #22  
Old 2010-05-01, 12:14pm
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3/16" is the size for coring and 5/32 for not coring. 3/32 is just a regular hole size.
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  #23  
Old 2010-05-02, 7:13pm
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you know what, i bet i didnt heat it enough before i did, your right!!!! cant wait to try it, havent played with these large holed mandrels enough!!! I could kiss you!!!!!
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  #24  
Old 2010-05-02, 8:13pm
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I have 3/16th rods and the hole is too small for my Biagi bracelet. The Pandora is slightly larger so I know that won't work. I can only sell them as fitting Trolls.
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Old 2010-05-02, 8:15pm
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I use 3/16" and core it and it fits Biagi just fine.
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  #26  
Old 2010-05-02, 8:17pm
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Do you double dip the rods? I buy my rods at Rio. Where do you buy yours?
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Old 2010-05-02, 8:21pm
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I use Fusion and do not double dip. I use the 4.37 mm tubing that Gingko had Indian Jewelery Supply make.

Mine was made from TIG rod from a welding shop.
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  #28  
Old 2010-05-03, 2:03pm
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Kelly I wouldn't use welding rods with the flux knocked off. They are not stainless steel, just steel. They begin to rust pretty quickly and your beads will stick. Like others have said get TIG rods and cut them down. They are stainless steel. Steel is also not made to withstand the heat. They are for one time use in welding applications. My husband is a welder and I learned the hard way years ago when I thought they would work too.

Patricia
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Old 2011-02-08, 12:13pm
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Yah, that is what I used, and I agree. I think someone told me to double coat with release to make it a tad bigger.


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I use 3/16" and core it and it fits Biagi just fine.
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Old 2011-02-08, 12:16pm
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thats what happened then. they worked in the beginning, but then stopped. Lesson learned


Quote:
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Kelly I wouldn't use welding rods with the flux knocked off. They are not stainless steel, just steel. They begin to rust pretty quickly and your beads will stick. Like others have said get TIG rods and cut them down. They are stainless steel. Steel is also not made to withstand the heat. They are for one time use in welding applications. My husband is a welder and I learned the hard way years ago when I thought they would work too.

Patricia
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