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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #1  
Old 2008-12-11, 3:45pm
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Hels Hels is offline
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Default Momka Silver Beach question

I just received a 1/2 lb of momka silver beach, and each rod is a different color. The only time I used silver beach before was from the momka sample pack, and as I recall, the rod was almost clear. These colors range from clear to amber.

I torched one of the amber rods last nite, did a blown pendant, and the entire thing came out amber/purple... the rod looks a lot like precision silver creek, and so did the result.

I have no idea what rods of silver beach should look like or how much variation is normal... can someone tell me if the color range can get as dark as silver creek (or dark amber purple), or might I have gotten a few sticks of the wrong glass? I thought silver beach was supposed to be silvery white/blue. Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 2008-12-11, 7:00pm
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fyrsmith fyrsmith is offline
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Helen,
Silver Beach is one of my favorite colors. It is the one I use most often for the eyes on my "Spirit Guardian" pieces, because I can torch strike it to many different colors.
The variation in the rods you received is due to variations in the cooling when it was pulled at Momka's. If you were to anneal or kiln strike all the the rods they would be all the same or very close color.

-Don-
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  #3  
Old 2008-12-11, 7:01pm
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Karen Hardy Karen Hardy is offline
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No, no...sounds like they're all bad.
Defective.
You need to send them to me.
I'll dispose of them properly......


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  #4  
Old 2008-12-11, 7:03pm
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Kris Schaible Kris Schaible is offline
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Karen totally agree very bad so bad infact I better take half for you.

Helen-Have fun and enjoy this is one on my favs!
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  #5  
Old 2008-12-11, 7:06pm
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wow, i'm not alone in my obsession with silver beach.
i've had rods vary from almost clear to dark amberish in color.. like fyrsmith said, no worries!
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  #6  
Old 2008-12-11, 7:16pm
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Ok thanks everyone. Don, your eyes are never ambery... are you reducing it? I used high oxidation keeping it clearish, and then flame struck (turned it reddish amber w/ very faint purple/blue areas), and did 1180 for an hour trying to get more color.... and they came out almost solid amber. No blue or white wisps, but with faint purple areas.

The sample I had from Momka's sampler turned almost silver white translucent, like the photos in their color chart.

Maybe I need to reduce to get that silvery wispy look (your guardian eyes are silver wispy too).

I LOVE the look of the glass from the sampler!! And even if it is like silver creek... I love silver creek too. I just want to know how to get that whitish silver look.

Karen, Noodlesaurus and ruca, thanks for the comments. This is my first 'real' effort to use it and I think I'm doing something wrong, tips and directions are appreciated!
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  #7  
Old 2008-12-11, 7:27pm
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hmm.. i might be wrong, but i've never garaged it that high & i usually get straight purple. the kiln i was using at my buddies shop garaged at 1080 to 1100, so maybe try that?

also, i don't think i used high oxidation on it, & if i remember correctly (sometimes i don't know how i do something, i just do it when i'm in the flow) i strike with a slight reducing flame.

keep playing around with different flames & you'll find the sweet spot.
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Old 2008-12-11, 8:00pm
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I got two different batches of Magic Mirror and the rods were different colors from each other. One was amber, one set was nearly clear. Fun stuff we deal with, no?
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  #9  
Old 2008-12-18, 9:17am
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My experience with Silver Beach is that it needs a bit of reduction to get the prettiest colors. If will be a dull dark amber color without reduction with my setup.
I work with an Oxy flame then use a reducing flame at the end.
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Old 2008-12-18, 9:20am
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Work it like you would with Amber/Purple or other colors like that.

Heat it up with a hot oxidizing flame and burn off all the haze. Let it cool, then strike it.
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Old 2008-12-18, 9:32am
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I like to burn off all the haze then let it cool and then bring the metals to the surface with a reduction flame then encase it.
Then heat the whole thing up to white hot (regular round bead) let it cool once again and then strike in the flame.
If I don't bring the metals to the surface with the pre-strike strike it stays Amber Brownish. I guess what I am saying is that I strike this color twice. I can get the coolest light magenta/violet this way.
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