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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2014-12-30, 1:23am
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Abacus Beads Abacus Beads is offline
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Default Fusing ????

I'm tired of burning my dicro. Can I take a sheet of clear and put the dicro side down on it and fuse the two? if so at what temp and for how long
Liz R
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Old 2014-12-30, 7:57am
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Try fire polishing the dichro strips first-- that should help take care of the scumming on the edges. Don't know what COE you're using, but 1325-1350 should do it, and you don't have to hold it for a long time. Just until the edges are shiny. If that doesn't work for you, yes, you can fuse it as you described. Use enough glass to cover the dichro, as it will want to "leak" out of the sides. It's a surface treatment and will try to stay on the surface. Fuse at 1400-1450, and check to see when it's done.
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Old 2014-12-30, 8:07am
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I've not done strips, but when I've used it in my fused pieces I like to cut my clear just a bit larger, put it on top & let it droop down to cover the dichro edge.
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  #4  
Old 2014-12-30, 9:45am
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Thanks for the info everyone.
Liz R
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Old 2014-12-30, 5:04pm
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You can do this several different ways, but the dichro
edges will almost alway show. See if you can buy the 104 made by Uroboros in sheet form. Effetre's clear sheet is t e r r I b l e! Cut into strips just a bit wider than the dichroic. Fuse to 1375 to 1400.

If you can't get the Uro, use Effetre's 006 rods. Place them on a kiln washed shelf and take them to 1350. You will get a flat edge to use against the dichro by doing this. Fire both together to 1375, 1400, but.....put a kiln washed shelf on top of your clear/dichro stack to weight the glass.

You will have a fairly flat, easy to use coated piece of dichro either way.
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Last edited by 28676bhe; 2015-01-01 at 2:17pm.
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Old 2015-01-01, 6:51am
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First of all the quality of the dichro DOES matter, I've switched to CBS because it is designed for glass working. It is more expensive but it is worth it, at doesn't burn out near as easily. When I switched to boro from 104 I could't figure out what the fuss was, I had no problems with dichro in my marbles. Then I received some free 33 dichro in an order that was not CBS, big difference. Also, make sure your flame is oxidizing, get both the dichro and the piece to which it is going to be attached soft. Don't let the flame hit the dichro coating anymore than is required for a given technique, like splintering the coating. Before I start, I attach my pre cut peices to a piece of 3mm rod with my Smith Little Torch or the center fire of my Bravo. I don't use the Champion's center fire as it is too big. Once you have the dichro protected you can work it fairly hot, without too much worry.
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Last edited by Dragonharper; 2015-01-01 at 6:53am.
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