Ordering Tuff Shed Studio-Please Help

stashia · #1 2010-06-26, 4:33pm

After months of saving I am finally ready to order my Tuff Shed for my new studio. I have a few questions that maybe some of you who have ordered can help me with.

What options should I add on for ventilation (I am going to install an inline fan outside and duct in then use a gutted vent hood. Do you think that is the best option? Should I just cut the hole myself or get a window or vent hole pre-cut to duct it out of? The fan has an electrical plug at 750 CFM should I have it hard wired in? Also there are other ventilation options what if any do I need to add to help with makeup air or for added ventilation Here are the options:
EA - Octagon Gable Vent (+ $120.00/Each)
SQ FT - Prodex Thermal Insulation (+ $4.15/Square Foot)
SQ FT - Radiant Barrier Roof Decking (5/8in) (+ $1.00/Square Foot)
LN FT - Ridge Vent (+ $11.00/Linear Foot)
EA - Small Wall Vent (+ $17.00/Each)
EA - Standard Roof Vent (+ $65.00/Each)
EA - Translucent Vent (+ $70.00/Each)
EA - Turbine Vent (+ $94.00/Each)
EA - Wall Vent (12in x 12in) (+ $50.00/Each)

And also what about insulation and drywall should I order the insulation above or buy my own and have handyman install.

I am assuming that the electrical should be run before the drywall. What do I need to tell the electrician? I have 2 kilns both run on standard household power but should I get 220?

I have a gas line about 5 feet away from where the shed will be (its a bbq stub out) can I tap in to this for gas (cricket torch) who would I call to do this and again what will they use to run the gas line? Id like to have the shutoffs inside the shed and at the bbq stub.

As far as the ground its pretty level but not perfect (dirt) is it better to lay a cement pad first? I was thinking to just level the ground to save money will that be ok since some of the other tuff sheds I've seen do not have a cement pad.

I am ordering the shingles from Tuff shed will they install those as well or will I have to do that?

I am going to add an extra window for the A/c because it is really hot in Las vegas

Will a small a/c cool an 8x10 shed and will that affect my ventilation at all? Anything to keep in mind with that?

What about lighting? I'm assuming I'll have the electrician do this as well what type of lighting do you recommend?

My hubby is not handy at all so It's pretty much me, the handyman, and an electrician. I'm trying to estimate how much I'll need to complete the project.

Thanks so much for listening to my rambling. I appreciate any and all feedback or help. I'll be sure to post pics once we get started.

Mary K · #2 2010-06-28, 6:54am

I would be cautious about installing vents that are not a specifically dedicated part of your ventilation system. They could undermine your airconditioner. I have an 10 by 12 tuffshed and put the aircon as far away from the torch/ventilation as possible. it does not affect my ventilation. Here is a link to my studio thread, you can see how we handled the ventilation. It works perfectly. I am very happy with my TS studio .Good luck!

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=78975
OH and for an airconditioner, go as big as you can, I wish mine was bigger, and I do
not live in LasVegas.

Rose Leslie · #3 2010-06-28, 3:46pm

I have a turban on the roof of the tuff shed. Then my huge vent that is hanging over the bench. It is vented out the side wall.
I have make up air with the windows open during the winter or the doors open during the summer.
Good luck with this. We also insulated the sides and the ceiling then put door skins up for the pretty part of it.
The one thing that I for got was having them put an outlet for the hoses through the wall.
So the window is where they are coming in now.
So going to fuse a stained glass window for this to make it weather tight and then pretty at the same time.
Good luck with this.

cheng076 · #4 2010-06-30, 11:59pm

It's just my opinion but I would;

1. Eliminate the octagon vents - too expensive and not really needed if you are putting in a couple of windows.
2. Fiberglass insulation for 2x4 walls is very much cheaper than the Prodex and your handyman can install it after electrical wiring with a simple staple gun. Drywall the interior as it makes it more cozy and adds to the insulation factor.
3. Radiant Barrier roof decking will not give you any less insulation factor than opting for 2x6 roof framing and putting the thicker fiberglass insulation up there under a sheetrock covering. If they use 2x4 truss roof framing then insulate just under the roof and cover with drywall and leave the 'attic' space open. The exposed ceiling members make good place to hang stuff and make storage.
4. Roof ridge vent is not needed as you will have windows. I would not opt for any vents except where your ventilation system fan is going to go. You might consider ridge vents IF you enclose the roof framing to ventilate the space between the inside covering drywall and the actual roof underlayment and shingles.
5. You will always want / need more eletrical power. Get as big and as many circuits as possible. 220 is a good thing for upgrading your kiln later...maybe.
6. Is the gas propane? If not then I would look at having BBQ size tank(s) outside the shed as your cricket may not work well or at all on natural gas. Check with the torch mfg. Most areas do not allow propane tanks to be stored/set on dirt ground so a slab or platform is needed; simple 2''x2' area of concrete paver stones or brick will work.
7. A concrete pad is nice but putting the shed on pier blocks is very acceptable in the desert as it stays dry. I would put down several inches of gravel under the shed however. Some decorative lattis will keep out the critters.Tuffshed should install the shingles or some form of roofing...it should be part of the package.
8. If the walls and roof/ceiling are insulated a normal Ac should cool the place well. Your vent system will draw some of that cooled air out unless you go to a ducted makeup air system.
9. I like to have at least one fluorescent to use as a refletor for checking glass object contours. Some like them for all their lighting.
10. Lastly I would have a good heart to heart with the tuffshed people as it sounds a little hinky to me that they want to charge extra for some things that should be part of the package, in my opinion.

Just my opinion, PJ

Dale M. · #5 2010-07-01, 7:23am

Yep... Pretty much what PJ says...

Dale

stashia · #6 2010-07-02, 7:19pm

Mary K-thank you for the tip about the A/C that makes sense and your shed studio is awesome you did such a great job. I love your vent and makeup air setup. I will be referring to your photos for help.

Rose-thanks for sharing. Great tip about a hole/box for the hoses it is something that I might have forgotten.

PJ-Lots of great info thank you. I think I will go with 2-windows and 1-vent opening which I will modify the opening for ventilation. I really do not want a window in front of torch because the light might make it harder to see the flame. I will work with Tuff shed on negotiating some of the extras in. The gas is natural I'm trying to remember the pressure but I think it was enough for the soft glass just have to pipe it in to the shed. As for the gravel just like a mini river rock? can I level myself or is that very hard? I'm assuming I could figure it out since our yard is pretty level now.

Dale-thank you for the reassurance

I will take all this feedback and go back to the tuff shed people and plans. I'm so excited thanks so much for your guidance.

cheng076 · #7 2010-07-03, 9:31am

Stashia,
Yes, a window in front of the torch creates a lot of glare. I have the back wall of my bench (covered w/ hardibacker board) painted black and I positioned a 12" x 48" mirror on the wall such that I can observe the far side of my project as I work on it; very handy.

For the gravel I would use what's called "three quarter minus" or "Pea gravel". They are equal in some areas but some places Pea Gravel is small rounded pebbles and in other areas it is similar to 3/4" minus which is crushed rock with the largest pieces about 3/4" size. Three quarters of a yard will give you about a 3" layer under your 8x10 shed and it is easy to spread with a rake if the truck has access to the shed site... other wise it's wheelbarrow time! An almost level area makes it that much easier.

As you see from other shed projects posted here by other women it is very doable with little outside help. You are doing your homework and building confidence and we are here 24/7 to help. Once you take that first step it only gets easier to 'get-r-done'

Good luck, PJH

lonerp · #8 2010-07-05, 12:49am

Waw. I love this forum and all the helpfull people in it.
Good luck with your studio, stashia

cheng076 · #9 2010-07-06, 10:54am

I happened to see a TV ad for Tuff Shed last night and it showed them putting the floor framing directly on the ground. Maybe that was for the ad,maybe not. If they do put it directly in contact with the ground I would advise specifying that they use pier blocks at a minimum. the blocks are about $4 to $6 bucks here and I would estimate you might need 8 to 12 of them to get a stable floor. If they use 2x6" floor framing then maybe 4 to 6. Might want to balance these costs against a concrete slab. An 8' x 10' x 3 1/2 thick slab would use slightly less than 1 yard of concrete with enough left to make a 18" x 36" pad for your propane tanks. A yd of conrete around here is about $100 delivered and a simple 2x4 form might have $20 in materials. A handyman shouldn't charge more than $350 to $450 (high estimate) to do it all....at least around here.

PJ