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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #1  
Old 2010-10-03, 7:29am
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SilverRiverJewelry SilverRiverJewelry is offline
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Default If I wanted try Boro

And have very limited funds, what two colors would you recommend I try? I haven't found any sites that sell by the rod and a quarter pound of boro is a wee bit higher than some of the basic 104 lol.

Also I want to make sure that its feasible on a Cricket before I try it lol.
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  #2  
Old 2010-10-03, 7:33am
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I'd recommend Mountain Glass arts. They sell that way, and have a price matching policy.
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  #3  
Old 2010-10-03, 7:43am
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awesome thank you! I will go check them out. Any particular colors that might be good to start with?
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  #4  
Old 2010-10-03, 8:00am
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Sonja I just ordered from ABR this week. I'm just starting to dabble in boro too and didn't want to order a lot. They sell by the rod and keep in mind that one rod is about 20 inches or more long. So you get more glass on a rod than with soft.

http://www.dichroicimagery.com/index...cmdkdq6famgvl4

This is what I ordered as recommended by others

Clear
white (I got the Elvis jawbone which is off white and regular Elvis white)
black (I wasn't sure which one to get so I ordered the blue one)
GA Agua Azul Rod
GA Carmel Luster Rod
GA Double Passion Rod
GA Persimmon Strike 4mm Rod
GA Silver Strike 3 Rod (or 5)

You must order some clear frit too.

Ask them to cut your rods for easier shipping and to save on shipping too.


I also ordered some colored frit from http://www.dragonflyglassworx.com/borofritblends.aspx
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  #5  
Old 2010-10-03, 8:02am
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Thank you! I will go take a look a bit later, as we are switching refrigerators today (blech, what a mess lol) so I will have to shop a bit later.
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  #6  
Old 2010-10-03, 8:26am
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Boro users typically use twice or three times as much clear as color in their work. So clear is a must. Get the cheapest you can to practice on; move up to good stuff later.

One of the best 'trial' or 'beginner' selections is a bag of mixed shorts from Momka's. Momka sells them direct and Trev's also has them and "granma' might be having a sale on them now. Used to be $20 or so for 5 or 10 lbs... don't recall exactly. Call her.

I agree with Donna but would go this way;

Clear, 3mm, 6mm, 10mm, and 15mm for up to 1" or so marbles and pendents
Aqua Azule or Blue Chameleon (similar but different shades of same color)
Caramel Luster or butterscotch (2nd choice)
Blue Moon
Turbo Cobalt or Cobalt#5
Dark or Light Elvis - the dark can be very dark but the light strikes to a very nice red
White Tiger is VERY nice for beginners as it stays white over and around other colors and is easy to work without boiling or devit problems. Trautman has the best and most consistant batches and the white is very inexpensive compared to GA or N* or others for white. Glasstronics white is also good. Personally I don't care for Jawbone or Elvis White.
One of the Amber-purples
Onyx or Ninja for black
Frits as well as boro rod are on sale (35% off) at Frantz I think. Maybe Mike ended the sale but it ran a long time.

The crayon colors are difficult for beginners. I personally use a lot of the Momka color.

That should get you going.

PJH

Last edited by cheng076; 2010-10-03 at 8:32am.
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  #7  
Old 2010-10-03, 8:29am
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I'd buy some northstar odd's. They aren't the same size all the way down the rod, so that is a way to save some money. Seconds are second quality, and generally have kiln brick in them.
Odds are a way to experiment with a new color without worrying if the batch's recipe came out "right".
ODDS in northstar are a good way to start out cheap! In Boro!

good luck with the fridge(s)
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  #8  
Old 2010-10-03, 8:45am
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oh, and I've worked boro on my cricket, it works

I like Elvis Red or NS Garnet.
And clear, lots of clear. I'm kind of an exception that I don't thin my color like a lot of folks of do, which is kind of bad practice because it means the production cost on my side's more expensive. But, even I coat and pull down sometimes

I like the bag of shorts idea too, with one caveat.... they tend not to be labeled. So if you find something you like, you might have a little hassle trying to figure out what it is/was.
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  #9  
Old 2010-10-03, 9:39am
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get a large sample pack to start, one rod of each color they make
if you can get one pack from each color company.
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  #10  
Old 2010-10-03, 10:14am
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You could always buy a bag of shorts off someone on here or the other forum as well.
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  #11  
Old 2010-10-03, 10:17am
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Sonja, I would get the Northstar seconds by the rod at MGA. That's what I did. I also picked out all the colors I thought about trying and emailed the list to them to make sure they were all good for a beginner. They are very helpful and knowledgeable!
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  #12  
Old 2010-10-03, 4:12pm
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Okay thanks so much everyone! The old fridge is on the curb and the new (used) one is in the kitchen. The freezer is done, just waiting for the refrigerator side to get cold enough to put all the food from the coolers back in. Sheesh, what a lot a of work lol.

I will be checking things out and reading all the threads in this section of the forums so i have a slight clue as to what I am doing. I am assuming I can do on mandrel work with this also? I know a lot of off mandrel is done but I really like on mandrel work.
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  #13  
Old 2010-10-03, 6:06pm
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Yep, just don't heat the mandrel directly; you'll burn through it.
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  #14  
Old 2010-10-03, 6:24pm
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imo if your looking to just test it out, get the trautman sample pack. Their short one is $25 and it'll give you a wide range of colours to play with, rather than just getting a bunch of one colour.
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  #15  
Old 2010-10-03, 8:57pm
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Clear and North Star seconds.... I would pick something like Multi or maybe Turquesa because you can get some striking and silver effects pretty easy.

Otter
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  #16  
Old 2010-10-04, 10:31am
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Thanks so much for your help everyone. I usually use the 1/16th mandrels for the 104 coe but have plenty of 3/32nds around to play with. I will make sure that I am careful to try and keep the flame on the bead and not the rod lol.

I believe I need darker glasses also? I have the dydi's but i also have some welding glasses laying around, are those sufficient? I can't hardly see through them at all!
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  #17  
Old 2010-10-04, 12:33pm
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Yes, a shade 3 or better. I use a 5, but some people find that too dark; I have blue eyes so I'm extra cautious.
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  #18  
Old 2010-10-04, 12:55pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by menty666 View Post
Yep, just don't heat the mandrel directly; you'll burn through it.

I found that out the hard way. LOL
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  #19  
Old 2010-10-04, 1:23pm
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okay I am going to have to go down and look at what they are. I am going to assume that the glare is going to be bright enough through the glasses that I can at least see what I am doing lol!
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  #20  
Old 2010-10-05, 6:29am
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You need the didys with the welders over them. Once you are hooked you will want to buy real boro glasses though.
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  #21  
Old 2010-10-05, 9:42am
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The flip ups that Phillips makes in shade 3 only run $25 made to put over those good soft glass lenses
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  #22  
Old 2010-10-05, 12:25pm
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flip ups sound good. I already wear glasses plus, the dydis so I may have to grow bigger ears lol!

lol Debbie I am afraid of that, the soft glass is already highly addicting!
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  #23  
Old 2010-10-06, 12:08pm
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If I had a buck for every skinny mandrel I've burned through....lol
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  #24  
Old 2010-10-08, 6:05am
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Sonja,
I have lots of boro, I will send you some to play with and I will make sure its marked. Just pm me your address.
Have a great day.
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  #25  
Old 2010-10-08, 6:17am
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We just started selling BORO SHORTS! $10 per pound. includes all glass companies. sounds like this might be what you are looking for.
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  #26  
Old 2010-10-08, 9:17am
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Boxers or briefs?
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