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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2011-01-12, 7:00pm
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Default Best Torch for Sculptural Soft Glass?

Hey everyone -- Happy New Year!

I have a Cheetah and an OGSI 20. I am feeling the limits of this set up when I try to do larger sculptural things, such as this polar bear, which is approx. 2.5 inches tall. I am not able to do complex murrini either.



I tried a friend's Scorpion, powered by an OGSI 20, but I don't like the flame; it feels like the blast from a jet engine. I would like something wider and fluffier, like the Cheetah, but with the capability of dialing down to a pinpoint flame.

BUT - I do not have tanked oxygen, so whatever I get will need to be run on concentrators/generators. I have been reading the posts and like the idea of running an inner flame and outer flame with two oxycons, but what torch and what oxycons would people suggest?

I live in Anchorage, Alaska, which is light years from anywhere that I could get my hands on different torches and try different things, so any input and guidance is much appreciated. Thanks!!!
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  #2  
Old 2011-01-12, 8:11pm
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I don't have a clue Im afraid - just has to say I love your work on Etsy!! Fantastic

PS there is a torch questions sub forum just above this one: http://lampworketc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=55
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  #3  
Old 2011-01-12, 9:42pm
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I think that your existing torch can actually do more, but you're starving it of enough oxygen. The OGSI 20 is only rated to 9 lpm.

My suggestion: Get a 2nd oxycon.

Even if the addition of the 2nd oxycon don't transform your Cheetah into a whole new torch (I think it will ), you're going to need the extra oxygen when/if you *do* upgrade to a larger torch.

At that time, I'd look for a Phantom.

Malcolm
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  #4  
Old 2011-01-12, 10:02pm
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What an adorable piece. I like my Carlisle Wildcat for sculptural work. It has a large bushy flame, and plenty of radiant heat. I don't know anything about the oxycons though. I also use my Japanese torch that I purchased from Malcolm in addition, to keep my large pieces warm while I'm doing detail work. So, I'll use two torches at once. The Japanese torch is great because it uses no oxygen.
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Last edited by glassactcc; 2011-01-12 at 10:06pm.
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  #5  
Old 2011-01-12, 10:20pm
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Wow, thanks Jenny!
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  #6  
Old 2011-01-12, 10:27pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArtcoInc View Post
I think that your existing torch can actually do more, but you're starving it of enough oxygen. The OGSI 20 is only rated to 9 lpm.

My suggestion: Get a 2nd oxycon.

Even if the addition of the 2nd oxycon don't transform your Cheetah into a whole new torch (I think it will ), you're going to need the extra oxygen when/if you *do* upgrade to a larger torch.

At that time, I'd look for a Phantom.

Malcolm

Thanks for the reply and info Malcom! If I do get another oxycon now -- brace yourself for a stupid question - I'm just going to "y" them together, right? There is no inner or outer flame, really, that I can hook up the individual oxycons to -- or can I? Thanks for the info about the Phantom; that name keeps coming up; I'll look at it. Thank you, elise
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  #7  
Old 2011-01-12, 10:28pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glassactcc View Post
What an adorable piece. I like my Carlisle Wildcat for sculptural work. It has a large bushy flame, and plenty of radiant heat. I don't know anything about the oxycons though. I also use my Japanese torch that I purchased from Malcolm in addition, to keep my large pieces warm while I'm doing detail work. So, I'll use two torches at once. The Japanese torch is great because it uses no oxygen.
Thanks Cynthia! A friend of mine has Mini CCs in her studio, and I really like those torches, so I will look at the Wildcat. I like the idea about the Japanese torch -- I would love to watch you make a bead with both torches! Thanks again for your input! elise
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  #8  
Old 2011-01-13, 2:35am
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If you have a four stud torch then one concentrator could go to each oxygen inlet if of sufficient volume. However, for a single stud torch a "Y" is just fine. One concentrator often times is not sufficient to run the center fire at optimum performance.

i.e. a Cricket will run with one 5 LPM machine, but comes to life with two machines.

For a four stud torch some run the inner flame on a pair of concentrators and the outer on tanked.

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  #9  
Old 2011-01-13, 8:35pm
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First of all, I LOVE that sculpture. Your work is beautiful!

Secondly,
Quote:
Originally Posted by glassactcc View Post
What an adorable piece. I like my Carlisle Wildcat for sculptural work. It has a large bushy flame, and plenty of radiant heat. I don't know anything about the oxycons though. I also use my Japanese torch that I purchased from Malcolm in addition, to keep my large pieces warm while I'm doing detail work. So, I'll use two torches at once. The Japanese torch is great because it uses no oxygen.
Interesting....
I've been considering a Japanese torch with the focused flame because of the 'no oxy' factor but don't know anyone who uses one.
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  #10  
Old 2011-01-13, 9:08pm
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It's great for Satake and it will melt soft glass, but it doesn't have the fine adjustment for the detail work. It heats up the whole piece. For me, it's worth having it in addition to my regular torch. Saves so many headaches.
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  #11  
Old 2011-01-13, 10:33pm
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Cynthia, any chance you have a picture of your setup with both torches? I'd love to see how this works!
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  #12  
Old 2011-01-13, 10:44pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artwhim View Post
Cynthia, any chance you have a picture of your setup with both torches? I'd love to see how this works!
EXACTLY what I was going to ask!

(and LOL no, ArtWhim, I'm not following you around the forums )
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  #13  
Old 2011-01-13, 11:45pm
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I'll take a pic tomorrow.
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  #14  
Old 2011-01-14, 7:43am
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It's tomorrow!
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  #15  
Old 2011-01-14, 12:08pm
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I like your polar bears.
This torch was designed for soft glass sculpture:
http://quantum-glass-solutions.com/i...roducts_id=295
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  #16  
Old 2011-10-27, 8:50am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtweeksx View Post
I don't have a clue Im afraid - just has to say I love your work on Etsy!! Fantastic

PS there is a torch questions sub forum just above this one: http://lampworketc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=55
I agree, on a completely unrelated note, your etsy site is great! I would love to see more variations of the Ocean Madonna Necklace.They are really sophisticated pieces

Haley
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  #17  
Old 2011-10-27, 9:52am
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Based on your O2, definitely your first step is a second oxycon. You'll want to match PSI output of your current unit, and then y them together. I run a cheetah on ~22 lpm and love it, but I don't do sculpture of that size often.

You might want to try the scorpion again on different settings. If you have the center flame set up higher, and the outer flame set much smaller, you will effectively get a wider, softer flame.

If that isn't big enough, they also have a sidewinder. It's the big brother of the scorpion. And I would love to try one myself.
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  #18  
Old 2011-10-27, 3:46pm
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I had a barracuda and just upgraded to the bravo. I am running 20 lpm 20 psi o2 and am still feeling underpowered. I tried to build a dragon the other night. Smaller in size than the dragon i made in Eli's class in April? In class we used a carlisle CC.

I had trouble getting enough heat to completely melt a 25 mm boro rod. In all fairness, i need to use the bravo a few more times since i don't think i have it dialed in yet. At this point in time though, if i can't get more heat, i am wishing i had a carlisle but i am going to continue to test to make sure it's not me. Next step may be another oxycon to run the outer ring separately

Last edited by nevadaglass; 2011-10-27 at 3:49pm.
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  #19  
Old 2012-05-29, 8:54pm
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Wink Make a 8" tall cute poler bear on a Midrange

I assume if you are looking for a wider and fluffier flame you havent tried the Mid Range By Nortell. This my fave for soft glass sculpture. I dont like the oxycon deal sorry guys. oxy=con I got way ripped off with the unlimited oxygen junk, got turned off big time. Just get some cheap old medical generators and chain them together turn on as many as you need. The midrange only needs 2 to run and maxes out around 5concentrators. I can easaly do a 5" gather.
Mid range plus.
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Old 2012-05-30, 10:01am
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I am a big fan of the GTT Lynx for sculptural work. I make 4"-5" long solid Boro pieces on mine no problem and I dont feel restricted by ti at all. As Malcolm has suggested, though, it needs a sufficient amount of oxygen to really shine. Have you considered tanked oxy? In my experience the torch is the least important part of the setup.
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  #21  
Old 2012-05-30, 1:55pm
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while I love the Lynx it can be quite hot for soft glass, it's a great torch for using multiple COE's (soft and boro). If you are only on soft glass and mainly sculptural, a torch with a "softer, bushier" flame might be preferable.

That being said, the Lynx does give a nice range of very penetrating heat all the way down to a very sharp, very fine needle flame that is great for small details and working on just the outside of a piece.
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Old 2012-05-30, 4:07pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PracticalMagicGlass View Post
while I love the Lynx it can be quite hot for soft glass, it's a great torch for using multiple COE's (soft and boro). If you are only on soft glass and mainly sculptural, a torch with a "softer, bushier" flame might be preferable.

That being said, the Lynx does give a nice range of very penetrating heat all the way down to a very sharp, very fine needle flame that is great for small details and working on just the outside of a piece.
How long did you work with the lynx? When I first got it I was stuck on those hot penetrating flames. Now after a year of working on one I dont think that there is a flame type that I cannot dial in. I work with soft bushy flames on mine to do large sculpture in both soft and boro. Since I am not a retailer for GTT I dont have any interest in convincing folks one way or another but I do think the triple mixes are one of the most versatile designs available. They do have a steeper learning curve though and as such are not for the casual user. Once again, the indian is more important than the arrow.
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  #23  
Old 2012-05-31, 7:31pm
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Hey this is Mark again in Eagle River. Give me a call. 227-3915. And Malcolm at ARTCO is great to work with! I've got a Phantom on order with him now. He promised he have me one in about 2 mo!!!!! Lmao. Sorry Malcom
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Old 2012-05-31, 11:21pm
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Hey this is Mark again in Eagle River. Give me a call. 227-3915. And Malcolm at ARTCO is great to work with! I've got a Phantom on order with him now. He promised he have me one in about 2 mo!!!!! Lmao. Sorry Malcom
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