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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #31  
Old 2012-12-23, 7:27am
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ICheer ICheer is offline
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It's pretty humid in Louisiana, where I live, too. Sometimes I set my dipped mandrels in front of a teeny space heater and that dries them quickly.
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  #32  
Old 2012-12-23, 10:08am
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FosterFire FosterFire is offline
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I forgot to add that rust spots, even algae growth won't ruin most bead release. It will look funny, but it still works. I was told you can add a teaspoon of (non-drinking) alcohol to your bead release to kill the algae. I have used mandrels with rust spots on them with no problem, when using my FosterFire.
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  #33  
Old 2012-12-23, 10:43pm
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Lisi Lisi is offline
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I forget who it was who responded to a post I made in a bead release thread a while back, and he commented that mandrels don't rust, and the ones I was using could not have been stainless steel. This was coming from someone who was not a newbie, but a lampworker that had been around a while. The only thing I could think of was that he must have been throwing his away after a few uses.

From reading this thread, so there....see, of course stainless steel mandrels can and DO rust! I rest my case.
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  #34  
Old 2012-12-24, 3:23pm
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Just a suggestion for anyone interested.

I picked up a lb of Alice's bead release. Turns out I am too rough on it and it couldn't stand up to my not so gentle ministrations. I now combine it with Sludge Plus at a ratio of about 1/8 Sludge Plus to 7/8 Alice's and it's fantastic. I can beat the living hell out of my beads and the release can handle it, plus after the kiln I can usually slide them off by hand (and I have no strength in my right due to carpal tunnel). And it's cheaper overall than any pre-mixed release. Just note it absolutely has to be air dried; it will crack if flame dried. But it dries quickly!

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  #35  
Old 2012-12-26, 5:45pm
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No matter what bead release you're using, whether flame or air dry, thick or thin, you will always break it if you aren't heating your glass enough. Keep that flame focused on the rod so that it flows properly and you'll be amazed how well your release holds up.

Nolly
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  #36  
Old 2012-12-27, 5:31am
LemonwoodStudio LemonwoodStudio is offline
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I use Fusion ... Never had a problem ... Flame dry above the flame otherwise it will boil and therefore bubbles and flakes off. After then you can heat as normal ...
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  #37  
Old 2013-01-10, 9:23pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrsD View Post
Yep, I use Foster Fire & often flame dry but I find if I don't scrub my mandrels with a scrubber (I just use sandpaper on mine) & then rinse before I dip, my bead release always develops cracks. A dipped mandrel will develop cracks just sitting in the mandrel holder for a week if I don't use the sandpaper on them! Very occasionally if I torch one day & take the beads off & dip them straight away the next day I can get away with no sandpaper (because no oxisation has had a chance to form on them) but otherwise I always have to scrub scub scrub!

It's by far my least favourite part of lampworking, I have problems with my muscles & my joints & it makes my arms & hands ache .
I have just come down to my playroom for the first time in about a month & here is an example of what my mandrels look like if I don't scrub them before dipping.
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  #38  
Old 2013-01-11, 11:51am
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I use Dip n Go Sludge though I seldom actually flame dry. I usually have enough ready to let them air dry, but occasionally I will dip in the morning and need them before they're going to be completely dry. I just wait long enough that they aren't tacky, and I lay them on top of my kiln. The heat dries them pretty quickly, and they're ready to use.
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  #39  
Old 2013-01-11, 8:18pm
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I live in a real dry climate & don't have issues if I flame dry or air dry. Not sure if that's the issue either. My bead release will crack if I get it too thick. I use Blue Coat & have been very satisfied with it.
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