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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2012-10-10, 11:27am
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Default Identifying Glass in general

I finally have an area set up to melt my glass. Except for a few rods I bought in NC and TN, all of my glass was purchased from people quitting the art. Most of those rods aren't marked.

One of the people I bought it from was going to include some silvered glass in the bundle. I have no idea if the other 2 people included any "special" glass in the bundles I bought.

Is there a way I can look at the glass and determine what glass is special in some way and what is just regular opaque or transparent/translucent?

I'm including a pic of the glass, although it's not a close-up. The stuff lying on the table to the right I purchased so I know it's not special.

Oh, almost forgot. The glass rods in the clear jar on the left are all different in some way. Most have a core that is a different color than the rest of the rod. Most are a slight difference but some are obviously different - usually darker. There's also some rods in that jar which are a colored stringer encased in clear. I'm not sure what I'll use those for, but they look cool!

It's all 104COE.

-BEP

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  #2  
Old 2012-10-10, 1:31pm
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Until you are very familiar with all the 104 colors, you probably won't be able to just look at a rod and know for certain what it is. In general, all those bright pastels are probably just that, bright pastels. Transparent glass could be silver, you can melt the tip and try reducing and striking to see if you get a reaction. Rods that are sort of olive drab, gray-green, brown or tan might be striking silver colors, as might be various shades of transparent amber. Transparent amber could also turn out to be striking red or orange. I think every newbie learns that the hard way at least once.
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  #3  
Old 2012-10-10, 2:23pm
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Not to mention the beautiful white rods that strike PINK and give you really ugly snow...

Brian, here's a chart that helped me a lot - unfortunately it's years out of date, so it won't help you with the newer colors, but it can at least give you a hint.

http://www.chrisfisherart.com/Morett...0Chart%202.htm

The "encased stringer" you described is filigrana, and it makes FANTASTIC beads! If you wind it around either a clear core or a contrasting color then encase in clear - cleanest spirals you'll ever see.

Just out of curiousity, is some of that one of the mixed lots from kellysglasshouse on eBay? If so, I can ID those for you.
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  #4  
Old 2012-10-10, 2:31pm
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Agree to all said about. Also, watch out for the colors when you are wearing your diddies as red and orange look the same until it's too late.
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  #5  
Old 2012-10-10, 2:38pm
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Brian - just for giggles, the 2 beads pointed out in the picture are cobalt blue filigrana wrapped around clear and encased in clear.

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  #6  
Old 2012-10-10, 7:45pm
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Thank you guys for the great information and the chart link.

I need to start taking notes on what I do so I can keep track of what colors look like what after they're cooled.

Again, thanks.

-BEP
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  #7  
Old 2012-10-10, 8:03pm
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Brian - I also find the second chart on that web site helpful, thought it isn't nearly complete. I've been trying to keep those types of notes for myself, so I can eventually get how the glass behaves straight in my mind.
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  #8  
Old 2012-10-10, 8:20pm
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I've learned that white is as bad as everyone says. I decided to make an off-mandrel 2-decker snowman. Because I'm frugal, I made the guy out of clear and "encased" it in white. I had some problems - his hat shattered while I was messing with the encasing, then after I made a new hat ( beret - it was much easier than another bad top hat ), I went back to fix a few places the clear was showing through the white and he blew up on me. I need to make sure I keep the whole thing heated while I work on different parts.

While most of my night melting was unsuccessful, I did learn things which makes it a good night in my mind.

I'll get my revenge and make another snowman, but I'll probably just make it out of white and not try to encase clear. My encasing skills are pretty horrid, though I'm cutting myself some slack since I've only encased 1 or 2 beads so far.

I'll peep that other chart, thanks for mentioning it.

-BEP
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  #9  
Old 2012-10-11, 3:21am
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I find that - and I really hope this is a newbie thing, and that Corinna doesn't have days like this - some days it all just works for me, I can melt Anice White, the encasing is flawless, life is just plain good, and some days I can't make ANYTHING work, everything smears, or I can't get things to melt and break the bead release trying to force it. I just sort of regard every session as a success if I learned something - which at 9 months in is pretty much a given.

But I really hate the whites that strike pink. I honestly think I'm going to go through my stash, find them all, and sell them in the GS just to get them out of my life.

I do find that there's a real learning curve to figuring out what's hot enough to keep a piece alive but not soupy. Every time I watch video of a master at work it seems like they're working the beads WAY colder than I do - which is one of the secrets to good encasing, clean dots and stringer work, etc - but I still find myself working with it way too molten.
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Last edited by eregel; 2012-10-11 at 3:24am.
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  #10  
Old 2012-10-11, 6:42am
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The rods in the jar with a different, darker center surrounded by another color are probably Vetrofond odds/specials. Goldstone surrounded by red is Vetrofond Jupiter, blue green surrounded by translucent green is Lichen, etc. The way to ID those is with a close-up of the rod end.

And the best way to use them is to really mush and mix them around when applying the glass- it brings the core to the surface as color streaks. Very cool!
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  #11  
Old 2012-10-11, 8:35am
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I need to watch some videos of someone doing encasing so I have something to go by. My efforts were purely comical.

I'm sure it will be interesting the first time I make something and when I pull it out of the kiln, it's a completely different color. I guess that's the fun of owning random rods!

Except for a few, the rods I have that have a different colored core don't have a big disparity in the color. Ie. the rod is yellow and the very middle of the core is just a little darker yellow. I did take a pic of the ends of the rods, I'll get it posted on here in a bit after I get some stuff here done.

-BEP
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  #12  
Old 2012-10-11, 9:15am
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Brian: a couple of suggestions of I may.

As previously mentioned, most reduction silver glass is transparent/translucent. It's usually a cooler color as well; blueish, purpley, almost black. If you take the ones you suspect, melt a small gather and reduce it, it should tell you whether it's a reduction glass or not by it's reaction.

As for encasing, it's a matter of PPP (practice practice practice). There is generally 3 basic ways to encase IMHO:

Wind the glass around the bead. Melt a large clear gather, touch it to one end of the bead and wrap the clear around your bead as you twirl the mandrel. If you didn't completely cover the bead with the 1st gather, keep the bead as near the heat as you can without melting it so it doesn't get too cold, melt another gather and continue where you left off.

In that vein you could also mush the large gather on one area of the bead, and continue to the next uncased area until its covered in clear.

My fav is side to side; I tend to encase too thickly with the other methods. Melt a med size gather, place it at one end of the beads and smoosh it to the other side. I tend to alternate left to right/right to left to keep the ends even when it's melted.

I have some pics of my first attempts at encasing; if you look at this weeks Newbies & Intermediate thread in the gallery, you can see some of my first attempts as well as some of the attempts of the others; a few of us posted our early beads. It can be frightening, so be warned LOL

Give em a go and see which suits you best!

Alli
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  #13  
Old 2012-10-11, 9:46am
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This link to a tutorial on Youtube might help to visualize encasing if you are vision oriented when learning something new.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFuC6...eature=related

Youtube is a great source for watching how artists work their glass techniques.

Andrea
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  #14  
Old 2012-10-11, 10:39am
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!!! Andrea, thanks for posting that!!! Just watching how she made that massive gather of clear was worth watching for me! I gotta go light the torch...
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  #15  
Old 2012-10-11, 10:53am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eregel View Post
!!! Andrea, thanks for posting that!!! Just watching how she made that massive gather of clear was worth watching for me! I gotta go light the torch...
Amen. That video was exactly what I needed. If I can't pull that off, I'll see if I can grok what Ali suggested.

Even though beads aren't going to be my focus, I think watching more of the bead videos will give me some good pointers.

-BEP
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Old 2012-10-11, 3:12pm
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There are some truly inspirational videos and tutorials for glass work, not just beads, that will make your jaw drop watching....and they are free to watch anytime. I've found more than one AHA!!! moment on Youtube about glass. I've recorded many of them and watch them when I'm in the studio. It's like having a very personal one on one instructor on call...LOL

Andrea
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Old 2012-10-11, 3:30pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamsincolor View Post
There are some truly inspirational videos and tutorials for glass work, not just beads, that will make your jaw drop watching....and they are free to watch anytime. I've found more than one AHA!!! moment on Youtube about glass. I've recorded many of them and watch them when I'm in the studio. It's like having a very personal one on one instructor on call...LOL

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How do you save them?
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  #18  
Old 2012-10-11, 3:35pm
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How do you save them?
If you use FireFox browser, I think there is a plug-in you can use. "Flash Downloader for YouTube" or something like that. Chrome probably has one, too.

Disclaimer: I've never used them so don't know how well they work.

-BEP
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Old 2012-10-11, 6:55pm
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I just bookmark them, personally
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  #20  
Old 2012-10-11, 8:09pm
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this was great.....I already see I've been turning the mandrel way too fast... love the video's !
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Old 2012-10-11, 8:19pm
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I just bookmark them, personally
I was wondering if I could take my photo frame to the shack & play them on it if I had them on disc. But maybe not, I don't know if it will do movies.
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Old 2012-10-12, 5:41am
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Brian, the biggest problem with Anice White (I'm assuming you're talking Effetre of course) and most of the light opaque colors is that when it is made, the metal oxides are not very homogeneously distributed, which leaves little pockets of oxides called stones in Murano. These stones make the glass extremely shocky, which is a pain first when you're trying to melt a rod but can also introduce a lot of stress into your pieces. This makes it very difficult when you are doing sculptural pieces where you let one part of the piece cool down because there is a lot of stress and it very often breaks.

Usually it is less of a problem for beads (once you've actually managed to melt the rod I mean) because the whole thing is supposed to be kept warm and the extra stress is taken care of when annealing. I wouldn't recommend not putting those beads in the kiln right away though.

And when making sculptural pieces, you don't want to leave stones in your piece so anything that breaks off the rod in these colors shouldn't go back into your piece.
This phenomenon makes it quite difficult to make massive pieces out of white or ivory, they are too shocky... so usually you make a clear core and cover with the opaque, just like you did.
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  #23  
Old 2012-10-12, 10:41pm
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Interesting info, Anne. I really need to get better at covering (encasing) in general.

Thanks for the schoolin'.

-BEP
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Old 2012-10-12, 10:44pm
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That was the very first thing I noticed. Conservatively, I'd say I was turning about 4x as fast as she. After slowing down, I saw quite a bit of difference in how much heat makes it into the glass.

And then I forget to stay slow. I have to keep telling myself to slooowwwwwww doooowwwwwwwnnnn.

-BEP

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this was great.....I already see I've been turning the mandrel way too fast... love the video's !
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Old 2012-10-14, 3:24pm
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Old 2012-10-14, 5:49pm
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LOL that's hilarious Dusty!

Just want to clarify something Brian. I realized I should have mentioned the side to side encasing is really for longer beads (tubes, bicones, etc); it doesn't work well on donut shaped ones!

It's interesting to hear how many folks are twirling too fast! I went to a newbie class in the spring, and the folks there were mostly twisting too slow. There were a lot of lopsided beads that day LOL

Alli
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