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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2010-04-06, 8:38am
pizzapinochle pizzapinochle is offline
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Default Annealing Glass bonded to steel

I am very new to lampworking, sort of fiddling around with a variety of things at the moment, reading tutorials, etc.

I tried something on my own that seemed to work really well, but is not quite complete.

I cut a steel rod into a short section and heated it using my torch, allowing me to bend it into a "c" shape. I then created a bead in the open space, filling in the C to make a ring. It looks really cool and I would like it to last. Unfortunately, the glass has visible cracks in it already, although the surface is smooth. I let it cool in vermiculite, but did not anneal it in a kiln.

If/when I gain access to a kiln, will I be able to anneal the glass that is already bonded to the steel, or will the different cooling properties of glass and steel prevent the glass from ever forming a good, crack free structure?

If I CAN do it, what do I need to do differently??

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 2010-04-06, 8:51am
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Glass and steel do not have the same COE and this just might not work, long term.
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  #3  
Old 2010-04-06, 9:19am
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I agree with Swamper, the differing COE's is gonna cause you lots of problems. Making the pieces separately and then epoxying them together may be the best way to bond thick pieces of glass and metal.
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Old 2010-04-06, 9:23am
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http://www.hositrad.com/glass-to-metal-seals
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Old 2010-04-06, 9:33am
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I use copper or silver. I also make sure that the glass is at least the same thickness as the metal I am putting in the glass. So if the metal is 2 mm thick, the glass walls are at least 2 mm thick as well or else thermal shock is the likely outcome.

Good luck and welcome.
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Old 2010-04-06, 12:02pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laserglass View Post
GLASS – TO – COPPER

Direct Seals: OFHC copper to any glass from 0080 to 7740 (pyrex).
Graded Seals: copper to quartz, using a pyrex graded seal.
Temperature range: -270C, to temperature just below the softening point of the glass used.

GLASS – TO – STAINLESS STEEL

Direct Seals: Stainless Steel 304 to any glass from 0080 to 7740 (pyrex)
Graded Seals: Stainless Steel 304 to quartz, using quartz to pyrex gradd seal.
Temperature range: -270C to 450C
Seals with other types of stainless steels are available on request.

Ok Mark please clarify the statements: this mean that direct stainless to any glass is ok?
i didnt see anything about regular steel only stainless, thoughts?
I have some tacks/pins and earring backs that i pushed the pin directly into the back of hot glass (104 coe) so far no issues. i have used copper with both 104 and 33 with no issues.
ro
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Old 2010-04-06, 6:22pm
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Glass to metal is pretty hard to do.

The reason that it cracked is because the glass and metal do not shrink at the same rate.


You need a really soft metal stretched out really thin so it can be crushed or pulled by the glass or a metal with the same COE as the glass you are melting.


You might try Dumet

http://www.teralab.co.uk/Glass_Blowi...eals_Page1.htm
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  #8  
Old 2010-04-08, 12:23pm
ben david ben david is offline
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Make a c-shaped piece of glass.
Make a c-shaped piece of metal tube to match.

But them together COLD as if you were mounting a gemstone in a metal setting.

Check out jewelry books and websites - many jewelers buy silver tubing and cut it to make bezels and settings. Lotta techniques.
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