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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips |
2011-04-05, 9:47am
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Cat herder
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Join Date: May 08, 2010
Location: Frednecksburg, VA
Posts: 219
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Can anyone explain this line?
I was practicing on some spacer beads the other day, and a couple of then had a line around the equator:
Most of the beads I made did not have this. I'm pretty sure these were simple single-wrap disc beads that I melted into the shape you see. I think I had a neutral flame. I could understand if I had two wraps side-by-side and trapped some reduction or soot in between, but that's not the case here.
Any ideas?
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Joe
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2011-04-05, 9:55am
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Does it come in purple?
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Join Date: Apr 17, 2007
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 247
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Some colours seem to do this. On a used rod, if you notice the glass goes transparent on the point then it has a tendency to do this. It's a nice effect, I like it
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2011-04-05, 12:18pm
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Glass Hive Kiln Tech.
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Join Date: Jun 23, 2007
Location: Toledo, OR
Posts: 907
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You can control it some by heating the bead from the sides as opposed to just in the center. That will help the "bleed line" from being so pronounced.
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2011-04-05, 4:19pm
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Cat herder
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Join Date: May 08, 2010
Location: Frednecksburg, VA
Posts: 219
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The colors were "green petroleum pastel" and "green pea pastel." Neither of the rods show transparent at the end, but I tend to overheat things. I just thought it was weird that the lines showed up dead-center. Some other colors have lines where the wraps overlapped, which I can understand.
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Joe
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2011-04-05, 4:31pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 01, 2006
Location: Nth NSW, Australia
Posts: 879
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Pea green does that every time for me. It's one of the things I like about it!
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Nicole
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2011-04-05, 4:47pm
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Glass-aholic
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Join Date: Mar 21, 2007
Location: CT, tolland CT
Posts: 4,332
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Petroleum green will do that! I think it is one of the reasons it is nick names Mosaic Green.... I love it! Turn your heat down a little, and this will be less of a problem. OR swirl your glass together a bit in a lower flame. (try not to break your bead release) I must work cool.. cuz this usually never happens to me!
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WASHERS & TOPPERS - layering components for interchangeable glass topper and to use in other jewelry/metalwork.:
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2011-04-07, 7:28am
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Oinky Oink!
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Join Date: Mar 07, 2011
Location: Pigsty, West MI
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This color is very reactive for me too.
CIM has a color they compare to pea green but with less reaction.
Elphaba
But I don't think the colors are the same. Elphaba is not as bright as pea green.
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2011-04-07, 8:23am
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one day at a time
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Join Date: Jun 27, 2005
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Supposedly Loren Stump has a way to prevent the line in those colors when working with them, but I don't know what that is. Would have to take the class to find out, I guess.
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2011-04-07, 1:46pm
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geekitude on two wheels
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Join Date: Aug 07, 2007
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 678
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If you kind of scrub the surface with a rod a bit it'll take out that line - just heat it so it's quite hot on the outside but still cold in the middle, and then kind of lightly stir up just the surface.
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2011-04-07, 5:09pm
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Join Date: Nov 18, 2007
Location: Buffalo, NY
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Its done this for me on and off. I can never reproduce it when I want it. I do like it though. It adds character.
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2011-04-07, 6:29pm
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Mary Lockwood
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Join Date: Jun 21, 2005
Location: Boonies
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Actually though, mosaic green and petroleum green are not the same thing. I don't even know if you can still get mosaic green, but it was awesome. I still have a half rod of it that I pull into hair thin stringer to get the bleeding/webbing effect it gives. I especially like it over the pale ambers with some silver foil or leaf.
As far as the line of color down the center of your beads, that is a common effect of the opaque glasses--green is most pronounced but the violets and blues do it easily too. If you use the rod to go back and forth over that line while it is molten you can scrub that line out a little bit. Personally, I like how it looks.
~~Mary
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