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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2015-07-09, 1:01pm
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Default Nasty black lines in glass... HELP!!!

Hello everyone, I am having a problem with black lines appearing in my finished glass pieces. I have never had this problem before and the only things that have changed is that I have moved from Illinois to Utah, and I ordered my clear glass from a new supplier (Sundance glass). I am still using MAP gas and using the same type of torch that I used in Illinois. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 2015-07-09, 1:08pm
2xMI 2xMI is offline
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It sure looks like something is dirty and you're getting a carbon buildup on your glass. What kind of torch are you using, and when did you last clean it? And did you clean your glass, as well? Your fuel line, if you're using one?

Mimi
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  #3  
Old 2015-07-09, 1:19pm
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I wipe my glass with a cotton rag before I use it. Here is the torch that I use, I just got it last week. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...L._SL1000_.jpg
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  #4  
Old 2015-07-09, 2:00pm
2xMI 2xMI is offline
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Is that a hothead? I haven't used one for many years, but I do remember getting occasional dark streaks on my clear. For me, it was because I was working too close to the face of the torch. The sweet spot on that torch can change slightly, depending on how cold the Mapp gas canister has gotten. Take a look at the face of the torch and see if there's any carbon build up. But the first thing I'd do is hold the glass farther out in the flame.

There's always the possibility you have a funky canister of Mapp gas, but I don't think that's too likely. Monitor how far out in the flame you're working, and I hope that takes care of it!

Mimi
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  #5  
Old 2015-07-09, 3:44pm
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http://www.cauldroncreations.com/hotheadinfo.html
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  #6  
Old 2015-07-09, 6:34pm
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I would check your lines too. Perhaps moving did something to any gunk build up and it is coming out now. That is what dirty fuel or a dirty hose looks like. Otherwise working too close to the torch.

Come to think of it, I had that a lot when I worked too hot as well. Check your lighting in your new work area. Hot head flames can be tricky and we don't always adjust them right in different lights because they can be hard to see. That might help a lot also.
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  #7  
Old 2015-07-09, 6:34pm
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you might be working too close to the face of the torch where all the fuel is not yet completely combusted
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  #8  
Old 2015-07-09, 8:09pm
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I had to call the company that sells the canisters of map pro gas because several canisters kept sputtering and the flame would get weaker and stronger all on its own! They asked me what my torch looked like and I told them all brass, like the one in your pic. They said I was burning my torch up and not to use the all brass torch. Iswitched to a torch used
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  #9  
Old 2015-07-09, 8:10pm
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Sorry, I switched to a propane torch and I burned both beads I made! It took me a long time to round the beads too as the flame didn't seem as hot. I'm at a loss as to what to do next!
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  #10  
Old 2015-07-09, 9:50pm
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How old are your hoses, and are they T grade?
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  #11  
Old 2015-07-10, 8:04am
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I'm not using any hoses, the torch attaches directly to the mapp tank
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  #12  
Old 2015-07-10, 8:05am
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I'm using the same type of torch I used before I moved.
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  #13  
Old 2015-07-10, 8:59am
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Then try backing away from the torch face and see if that helps. It sounds like you are working with a new torch, even though it's supposed to be the same as the one you used before? Do you know if it is a Hot Head? Also, are you at a much higher altitude than you were before?

Mimi
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  #14  
Old 2015-07-10, 9:23am
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You might try a pickle agent to remove all residue. Frantz Art Glass has a good one:

http://www.frantzartglass.com/index....1fc296cb426a43

You can also try wiping your rods down with white vinegar.
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  #15  
Old 2015-07-10, 12:40pm
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I am wondering if there are differences caused by your location changing. Possibly altitude, humidity, etc. are affecting things, and you need to adjust the flame or move out in the flame to make corrections for the differences due to location.
Or could your torch have suffered a bit in the move, and not be burning the fuel correctly?
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  #16  
Old 2015-07-11, 1:18am
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I've had this on a hothead when using effetre clear, working cooler worked for me, some batches are scummier than others, I always wipe eff clear with vodka before using
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  #17  
Old 2015-07-11, 5:44am
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Ketel one three olives
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  #18  
Old 2015-07-11, 11:20am
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I'm more conscious about where in the flame I'm working and that seems to do the trick
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  #19  
Old 2015-07-11, 2:33pm
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I took the propane torch head off and am back on the brass. I can't get anything done using that propane torch head. The newest canister of Mapp Pro sputtered a bit but not too bad. Does anyone else have a sputtering problem using Mapp Pro? I can't wait to get off the hothead, hopefully later this year!
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  #20  
Old 2015-07-11, 2:53pm
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Does it sputter after you've been on it a while, or right away?
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  #21  
Old 2015-07-11, 5:23pm
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It is not uncommon for map gas, propane or any of the small tank types to have 'extra' crap in them.

The fuel is not known for its purity.

I think there are fuel filters for them because the 20 pound tanks used on motor homes and travel trailers also power the refrigerators and those systems don't put up with contaminants too well.

I might suggest setting up your tank in its holder and letting it sit over night if you can if it is still giving you grief.

But my experience has mostly been that I was working too close to the torch and not letting the fuel burn thoroughly enough before it got to the glass.
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  #22  
Old 2015-07-11, 8:40pm
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Default Nasty black lines in glass... HELP!!!

It seems like it's after awhile, Eileen.

Last edited by ccaronn; 2015-07-11 at 8:43pm.
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  #23  
Old 2015-07-11, 8:42pm
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Oh, that's interesting, Speedslug, thank you! I do find that I like to work close to the torch!
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  #24  
Old 2015-07-14, 4:22pm
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If I'm remembering correctly, mapp gas can sometimes be "dirty" as it's made with so many different ingredients. And I think they had to change the formula. I quit using it because my supplier couldn't guarantee it's cleanliness. But that was years ago. I could be remembering wrong
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  #25  
Old 2015-07-15, 1:05pm
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Map and even propane (blue cans) are clear, "technical gases" have higher grade of purity than gas supplied for household and cars. But the amount of oxygen from the air taken by HH is limited, gas does not burn completely close to the torch (1.5" from the blue cone seems to work if the valve is opened just enough for stable flame, not right at the end of the blue cone. Even a bit more with a new canister when the gas pressure is quite high.)

I use Bernzomatic and Worthington (what is cheaper and available) - both are very good, but moving closer to the torch - same [s]sh..[/s] stuff.
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  #26  
Old 2015-07-15, 5:56pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowbird View Post
you might be working too close to the face of the torch where all the fuel is not yet completely combusted
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