The secrets of Raku Revealed - Page 7

Dawn >^..^< · #**181** 2006-11-27, 8:58pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by monarae

Thanks for the suggestion. I think I will start a HH Raku thread.

I can get Kronos to respond because it loves being reduced. I've reduced and then pulled twisties, and I've used stringers and dots. I have to say I'm not terribly impressed with it, but I would love to try Gaia and Double Amber Purple (I love colors!). I do the Kronos differently every time because I get confused about which type of glass needs which treatment so I generally do the following.

Apply the Kronos to the base bead and, whether melted in or not, get your bead really hot, then cover the holes on the HH and bring the bead really close to the torch head. You can see the silver come up to the surface.

Then I take it out and cool it A LOT. Then I turn up my torch and twirl in the dragon breath flame. Then I take it out again and cool it.

Next I use a clear stringer to cover the parts I want to keep the way they are. Finally I reduce again to further change the parts that aren't encased.

The more I reduce the lighter green I get.

Mona

Thanks for the tips on the Kronos, Mona! The next time I feel like I'm in the "zone", I'll refer back to them and give it another try. What really kills me is I can do one really great beads and then everything turns to crap after that. I can spend a whole day making one awful bead right after another, trying to get one to match the very first one. Maybe I should buy a HotHead just for the silvered glass!...LOL!

Dawn >^..^< · #**182** 2006-11-27, 9:05pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beads-on-Toast

Whic raku should i be using
i have reichenbach cane and sand
Is that right?

I've used stringer pulled from can and frit in the beads I've shown in this thread.
The real name for Raku is Reichenbach Opaque Iris Orange, #R-108.
"Raku" is a nickname that was started by Val Cox.

Dawn >^..^< · #**183** 2006-11-27, 9:23pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by lldesigns

I had no luck with Raku on my Hot Head and I'm still having no luck with my Mini CC. I tried the super heating and encasing when it looked black and it came out black...no color at all. Everything I've tried has failed. I think Raku just doesn't like me. Sigh.

If you're encasing it and still getting black, it sounds like you're reducing it. Remember, raku LOVES a very neutral, to oxygen rich flame. To get the vivid colors, don't reduce it at all. Heat it in an oxygen rich flame until you see that white hot glow and chill it to turn it black, then encase it. If you see any metallic deposits on the surface of the raku while you're heating it, there's too much gas and not enough oxygen in your flame. Readjust your flame until you can heat the bead without seeing those little black metallic patches flare up on the surface.
Hope this helps, and don't give up! Now that you have your Mini CC, you're on your way to glorious colors!!! It just may take a little more practice with the new torch until it clicks.

Dawn >^..^< · #**184** 2006-11-27, 9:31pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by ann_s

Well, I just saw this thread and I don't know where i've been but I thought I was being so adventurous to put a dot of clear on a dot of raku! I am very happy to see that you can encase it...Dawn, thanks so much for this thread. Raku is my favorite glass and now it will be better.
I have found that when I cover a dot of raku, the colors can be even brighter if the dot is poked. I don't know why but I love the effect.
Thank you...thank you!
ann

Thanks Ann! I hope you found some helpful tips and some fun things to try in this thread.
Raku is my most favorite glass of all. I love threading it, raking it, scrolling it, swirling it, chilling it, encasing it.....well, you get the picture....I better stop before I start to sound like Bubba from the movie Forrest Gump...LOL!!!

Dawn >^..^< · #**185** 2006-11-27, 9:40pm

Just thought I'd pop another picture in here for the sake of inspiration....

This is solid raku, with just a hint of intense black threading.

cheeky monkey · #**186** 2006-11-28, 6:04am

and I STILL can't do it.......

HannahRachel · #**187** 2006-11-28, 7:13am

I have really good bright blues and purples if I use a base of red-brown moretti and dip my carbon paddle into water between each roll. Oh, yeah, and the bead has to be HOT! I'll post a photo later...

lldesigns · #**188** 2006-11-29, 11:47am

Okay, I'm starting to get some color now that I increased the oxygen. Still not getting dark, rich colors and no purple yet. But definitely better than before. I'm actually more excited about my encasing!!! I'm finally getting an even coat of clear all the way around.

The photo looks purple but it's actually blue.

Raven Wylder · #**189** 2006-11-30, 9:51pm

Ok, I need help too. Here's my pics - I hope someone can help? I'm going to try again this weekend so I hope I can post better pics next week.

All are raku on ivory, top left is just raku on ivory cooked to death, the top right is reduced, bottom is encased. I got some blue off of that but not much.

DFS · #**190** 2006-12-03, 7:23pm

Laurie,
Those are lovely. I personally am forever after the purples you got in your second one from the right. I never can figure out how I get them...which means I don't always get what I hope for. Your encasing is beautiful.

Joyce

lldesigns · #**191** 2006-12-03, 7:38pm

Thanks Joyce. I've been messing with Raku for months with no luck until Dawn explained that it prefers an oxidizing flame. Now I'm starting to get some color. Of course after all the messing around I'm out of frit!!! Back to the store...

Kevan · #**192** 2006-12-03, 7:48pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Raven Wylder

Ok, I need help too. Here's my pics - I hope someone can help? I'm going to try again this weekend so I hope I can post better pics next week.

All are raku on ivory, top left is just raku on ivory cooked to death, the top right is reduced, bottom is encased. I got some blue off of that but not much.

If you reduce it it brings out the metallic finish and you don't get the colors. You want to use a neutral or a oxy rich flame, not reduce it.

lldesigns · #**193** 2006-12-03, 8:22pm

Kevan those are gorgeous!!! I'm still not getting the full range of colors like that. Do you do multiple heatings and coolings? Do you marver or blow? How close to the flame do you hold the bead? Do you let the glass get runny hot? Do you use so much oxy that it hisses? As you can tell I'm still learning!

monarae · #**194** 2006-12-06, 10:12am

Okay, I followed the directions, and got it to turn black before I encased it. I still didn't get any color, but it is a nicely shaped 2" bead.

Beads-on-Toast · #**195** 2007-01-09, 3:33am

I keep trying and trying but still no colours oh-hum

Kym · #**196** 2007-01-09, 5:02am

I will just tell you what I do.

I find it pops more on black but I am only still learning

I use raku as a stringer, either alone or with black

After I apply it to a base black bead, I heat it in a neutral or oxy rich flame about 1" to 1" and 1/2 from the torch end, to runny hot, almost white hot. (If you watch, you can see the change in the raku when it gets hot enough. It starts to form some lines and flares a bit)

I then chill it on a brass doorstop that I have frozen is a shallow container of water. I keep this in the freezer until I want to use it. perhaps other metal would be OK but I use brass.

I roll it on the chilled brass until it looks black, then bring it back to the flame to warm (especially if I want to press it) and to encase it in clear. I find encasing brings out the colour more.

If you get it hot enough and then chilled enough, I can almost guarantee you will see at least a lot of blue. some green and purple, occasionally maroon,

I use a nortel minor burner on an OGSI-15. You won't see the best colour until it cools in the annealing kiln a bit and when it is completely cool, you should see heaps of colour.

Hope this helps

Kym

Beads-on-Toast · #**197** 2007-01-09, 10:37am

when i hold it an inch away from the torch end i see like what appears to be a skin forming and growing. not in depth i mean in width. flat to the surface id this the flare you mention? i always think thats soot!
So i need really cold metal. like freezing?
I thought if i got water onto a bead i thought it might crack!! or do you just apply the raku to the cold brass and not the wetness.
Many thanks for your help i shall have another attempt and post my results.
x

PaulaD · #**198** 2007-01-09, 5:03pm

I get good color just by using an oxygen rich flame. I don't chill it. The stringers work best for me along with the size #2 frit or stringers that I make from #4 chunk.

Paula

Beads-on-Toast · #**199** 2007-01-10, 7:52am

When you say oxy rich, do you mean you use an oxygen bottle or an oxycon?

sleekbeads · #**200** 2007-01-10, 11:18am

either one is fine, she just means to turn up your oxy on your torch.

hulagirl · #**201** 2007-01-11, 7:37am

Wow....I did it! Finally understand how to work with Raku. Thanks to all the contributors to this thread! Oh, and I can't resist saying: Nice cones, Dawn!

Dawn >^..^< · #**202** 2007-01-11, 2:37pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beads-on-Toast

when i hold it an inch away from the torch end i see like what appears to be a skin forming and growing. not in depth i mean in width. flat to the surface id this the flare you mention? i always think thats soot!
So i need really cold metal. like freezing?
I thought if i got water onto a bead i thought it might crack!! or do you just apply the raku to the cold brass and not the wetness.
Many thanks for your help i shall have another attempt and post my results.
x

The skin you see forming is actually the raku reducing. You need more oxygen in your flame and less propane so you don't see that skin form. Sometimes if you accidentally reduce the bead you can let it cool slightly and reheat it in a more oxygen rich flame to get rid of the "skin" or little metallic looking spot.

And when I "chill" my beads I just touch them to anything brass or stainless steel like a bead press or even a butter knife. I don't chill the tool I'm working with, although I've heard of some people doing that. The metal tools is so much cooler than the molten glass that it chills the glass upon contact without having to chill the tool itself.

Good luck! Can't wait to see photos!

Dawn >^..^< · #**203** 2007-01-11, 2:41pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by hulagirl

Wow....I did it! Finally understand how to work with Raku. Thanks to all the contributors to this thread! Oh, and I can't resist saying: Nice cones, Dawn!

Woohoo!
Pictures!....Pictures!!!!

And it's been a while since anyone complimented me on my cones!...

Thanks!

ellyloo · #**204** 2007-01-13, 8:49pm

I'm getting there... grrrr.

I pulled a stringer on clear... dunno if that'll affect things, but here's a TEENSY bit of colour and a bit of Devit from trying too hard.
Forgive the bead poop.

Dawn >^..^< · #**205** 2007-01-14, 8:33am

Quote:

Originally Posted by ellyloo

I'm getting there... grrrr.

I pulled a stringer on clear... dunno if that'll affect things, but here's a TEENSY bit of colour and a bit of Devit from trying too hard.
Forgive the bead poop.

Those look great!
Pulling the stringers with a clear rod will dilute the raku a bit though. If you want more vibrant, opaque colors to show up, try pulling stringers by dipping a fat mandrel into the frit. I use a 3/23" or 1/8" mandrel and heat about 1/2 inch of the tip until it glows, then I dip in the frit and melt and dip and melt and so on until I get a nice little gather to pull a stringer from.

jaccarney · #**206** 2007-01-16, 10:19am

1st time using raku. i've just started lampworking (this month) so they're nothing special, but they were fun to make and i'm looking forward to making a funky bracelet or necklace outta them, just for the heck of it!

jac

FourTailsLampwork · #**207** 2007-01-16, 10:43am

DAY-am, woman, I wish some of mine looked that good after five months! I really like the funky things you're doing with the encasing.

LyndaJ · #**208** 2007-02-03, 6:43am

How do you apply other details after you've got the Raku color without losing the color? Link to today's gallery to show your beads that PROVE it's possible. http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...t=45747&page=2

Dawn >^..^< · #**209** 2007-02-03, 9:45am

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyndaJ

How do you apply other details after you've got the Raku color without losing the color? Link to today's gallery to show your beads that PROVE it's possible. http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...t=45747&page=2

Once you get your colors to show up, don't overheat your bead after that and they will stay.
On this set I put the intense black on the bead and then got the whole thing real hot and pressed it. (The round beads I rolled in a bead mold to chill the color into them.) This turns the whole bead black, which is what you want, and then I fire polish and press (or roll) again, and the colors showed up after the second pressing.

On the next set, I got the colors to come out and play, but made sure that as I was putting on the scrolls, that I didn't get the bead too hot again. Just enough to get my scrollwork anchored on real good.

LyndaJ · #**210** 2007-02-03, 10:01am

Thank-you!