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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2009-03-16, 8:46am
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Default cutting tool for tronconi

HELLO PEOPLE

i purchased a lot of Tronconi from Effetre factory in Murano

I would like to cut them in slices.




Please can anybody suggest me what tool use?

thanks in advance
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  #2  
Old 2009-03-16, 9:00am
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Have you seen this? Mike Hanson made a really cool chopper.

Kelly
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  #3  
Old 2009-03-16, 9:00am
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How big is that? (diameter)
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  #4  
Old 2009-03-16, 9:13am
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ciao
The diameter is about 1 inch

I think i need a specific saw.
I tried either revolution and taurus 3 by gemini and sincerily dont like how to work for this

Perhaps need a specific saw?

ciao
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  #5  
Old 2009-03-16, 10:05am
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The only other thing I can think of is a band saw with a diamond blade but if the Revolution didn't work, the bandsaw probably won't either.
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  #6  
Old 2009-03-16, 10:32am
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The Omni2 saw works. The blade has a thin kerf so your loss of glass is less.
Some use an MK Diamond saw.
Joan
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  #7  
Old 2009-03-16, 11:50am
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Any Tile saw (Wet saw) with a diamond blade should work...Paula
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  #8  
Old 2009-03-16, 11:02pm
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Hi

thanks you for support

definitivley i agree abiut the need to use a wet tiel saw with a continuos disk ( i dont know how do call it)



anybody does he/she cut tronconi in slices?

ciao
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  #9  
Old 2009-03-16, 11:12pm
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Mike:

This is what I have that I used to cut very large canes. They were probably 1 1/2" in diameter.

http://www.diamondtechglass.com/inde...mageSize=large

hope this helps you

Sara
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  #10  
Old 2009-03-17, 1:28am
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grazie!! )
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  #11  
Old 2009-03-17, 6:13am
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I use the MK tile saw with a super thin diamond lapidary blade to reduce loss from the saw kerf. The Taurus ring saw will work, but even the thin kerf blade eats up a lot of glass and leaves a relatively rough surface. The lapidary blade leaves a pretty smooth cut surface. If you use this saw feed the glass into the blade very slowly and the blade will last much longer.

Robert
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  #12  
Old 2009-03-17, 6:33am
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Dominico! Hi!!

Robert knows what he is talking about. He fixed me up with a way to cut real thin and thick murinni. I was just nipping the murinni before he helped me. Like in the bead you have.

He told me to use the MK470? It works great. Maybe if you PM him he can give you some advise or send you a picture that could help you? He is an expert. He was a big help to me. I needed to slice up large murinni.
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  #13  
Old 2009-03-17, 9:23am
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Here's a photo of cutting murrini with the MK470 tile saw and a MK Sabre 1000 lapidary blade. The blade is 6 inches and the saw is designed for a 7 inch blade, so I made a sled from 3/4 plywood and perspex to raise the cutting bed to the correct height. This blade has a 0.025 inch kerf and a very fine diamond coating, so you can get really thin cuts. The blades in ring saws are thicker and cause more vibration in the work piece, often causing very thin slices to crack before you get all the way through. This blade can cut =/< 1mm slices.

http://www.mkdiamond.com/lapidary/bld_1000.html

I've started wearing a dust protection system (Triton powered respirator) that I borrowed from my wood shop when cutting murrini. The wet saw throws up a mist and there are glass particles in the water. My system has a polycarbonate face guard for impact protection and an air filter with positive pressure air flow down the face plate to keep it from fogging. Some sort of respiratory protection is really a good idea if you are wet cutting.

Robert

Last edited by RSimmons; 2009-03-17 at 9:24am. Reason: Spelling
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  #14  
Old 2009-03-17, 1:05pm
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hELLO PEOPLE

Robert,please take the possibility first to make a wish at my friend Heather i was so lucky to met her in Murano soem years ago and pass some dasy together all group.She's so sweet...

Ciaooooooooooooooo Heather....how are you????
Where are you been??? I will be in Murano next 11 and 12 may with Mike Frantz group ro realize,finally, my dream...geta tour inside Effetre....Mike is the only key to realize this!!
I hope i can meet you again in future!!

If you want come to visit Sicily i will be proud!!

About Robert,
thanks for you reply.
>>The blades in ring saws are thicker and cause more vibration in the work piece, often causing very thin slices to crack before you get all the way through>>

i agree with you.
I tried with Reviolution and i cracked a full troncone
Then i need to cut a MK saw i suppose.

then,I would like to ask,

1)can you list all model show on their website suitable for my use?
(in other words what caracteristic have to havea saw for my use?)
2)what is the thinnest blade thickness? ( in wau to cut slim murrini and having a slim blade i can lost less glass thickness during cut...do yo understand me??)

I love too your protection system...who sell it??

thanks for collaboration

CIAO
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Old 2009-03-17, 2:31pm
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I have used this blade for my mk470. It is the blade that Robert mentions.

http://www.mkdiamond.com/lapidary/bld_1000.html

I get the 6" blade but my saw needs a 7" so I have the sled that Robert made for me..... It works really well.

Sure wish I had that ventilation mask!!!! Robert, YOu sure do it right. I just tie a bandana over my face. I look like an outlaw from the wild west....

Dominico, you will have a great time with Mike. I sure wish I could go. What a dream!!!!! Have a great time!!
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  #16  
Old 2009-03-17, 2:45pm
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ciao Heather
thanks for reply

the 470 seems discontinued so i will email to MK to know what new saw can use that blade

http://www.mk-diamond-saws.com/mk_470_tile_saw.html

Did you try cut big tronconi in slices like want me?

CIao
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  #17  
Old 2009-03-17, 5:52pm
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Any of the wet tile saws from MK will work. Just be sure to match the blade size and the arbor size of the saw to the blade. The arbor is the drive shaft from the motor. some are 1/2 inch, some are 5/8 inch. I don't know what the max blade size of the 660 saw is, but if it looks like it may be a 6 inch blade. This saw will work well for the job, just be sure that you get the right blade.

The Sabre 1000 is the thinnest blade that they make, it's about like paper. I've also found that using blade stabilizers (made by Systematic) from my table saw help keep the blade from flexing to the side when you make your cuts. Super thin glass slicing is sometimes a complicated job, but the results are pretty cool.

My [rotection system is made by Triton and it's sold by woodworking supply stores. I have no idea if it is avaialbe in Italy, but in the US it is sold by Rockler Woodworking supply and Highland Hardware.

Ciao,
Roberto
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  #18  
Old 2009-03-18, 1:23am
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hi robert
I will email to MK saw asking what are all model compatible with the blade you metion.
I posted the 660 model just for exemple...For me any model can be the same ,important to be able to make what i need.

I am a lot confused about stabilizers.What are you referring?anyu link?any foto?
thanks

ciao from italy
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Old 2009-03-18, 5:44am
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HI Mike,
Blade stabilizers are used with very thin kerf wood cutting saw blades. They are small, very flat steel discs that fit on the saw arbor on either side of the cutting blade to prevent the blade from flexing during cutting. I found that the super thin lapidary blade tended to bend a little when cutting thick murrini and this made the cut uneven. I put stabilizers on either side of the thin blade which left a narrower band of the cutting blade exposed. The end result is less flexing of the blade during cutting and a better quality thin cut. My MK saw has a 5/8 inch arbor which, lucky for me, is the same size as my table saw in the wood shop, so it was an easy test to run. The cost about $20 from Rockler Woodworking here in the US. I'm sure that there are woodworking suppliers in your part of the world that have these as well. Just in case, here's a link to the Rockler product:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...ter=stabilizer
Good morning from the East Coast
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  #20  
Old 2009-03-18, 12:30pm
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I cut these with the saw.
They are about 2.4mm. opps 2.4cm. About and inch
Then I ground them into cabs. Then I put a bezel around them for pendants.
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  #21  
Old 2009-03-18, 4:01pm
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hello

thanks robert for your replies.
I tried to ask directluy to MK and they told me the saw for my use is MK-215 GL and the MK-101 but they dont mention about the blade to use

They also told me to send them a piece of troncone to be cutted and send to me again by post.

What do you think abotu these models,robert?

Dasi thanks for your foto
Nice work!! i think MK saw it is perfect for what i want to do.

CIAO
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Old 2009-03-18, 4:38pm
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Check this out: mk 470 on sale. This gives you a picture of what you need.

http://www.masterwholesale.com/mwist...dID=1203447841
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  #23  
Old 2009-03-18, 6:01pm
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Just about any of these wet saws will do the job, you just have to be sure to match the blade size (diameter and arbor size) to the saw. They all have the power needed. You'll probably have to buy the blade separately, but the Sabre 1000 blade comes in several diameters and arbor sizes.

Here's what I've been cutting with mine:



Robert
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  #24  
Old 2009-03-18, 10:56pm
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thanks both Robert and Dasi
This is clear
I will search for an economic Mk saw and for an additional sabe 1000blade compatible with the saw.
thanks

ps: the foto show once again the white TRONCONI sliced (what i want to do with a saw)...while the red TRONCONI was what about i tried to cut with my saws....just "omelet"





ciao
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  #25  
Old 2009-03-19, 5:32am
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Beautiful work Robert!
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  #26  
Old 2009-03-20, 11:15pm
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hello dasi.hello robert

Yesterday i gone at my friend that is marble worker.
He tried with his marble saw to cut my tronconi just for test

The opaque ones was cutted ok while transparent ones cracked...

is this happen to you too? what do you think about??
As you see als my latest foto about my tests with my ring saw,the transparent cracked...

why is it possible?

thanks for support

Ciao
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  #27  
Old 2009-03-21, 8:04am
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The transparent may just be more brittle. Opaque glass tends to melt at a lower temp than transparent and this probably indicates that there are other differences as well. Cracking is also more likely with a coarser blade. My ring saw has about 100 grit diamond on it and cracks thin slices every time. The Sabre blade is a much finer grit and doesn't cause cracking very often. Speed of cutting also makes a difference. Cut slowly with lots of water flow to keep the piece cool and it's less likely to break.

Robert
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  #28  
Old 2009-03-21, 9:06am
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robert,

thanks for your reply.
i absolutely agree with all you.

I think to purchase the saw that you mention..with proper sabre 1000 blade.
Since in May i will be at Effetre with Mike Frantz we will ash exactly what tool and blade they use for cut the Big Tronconi they manufacture

Very very thanks for all your precious help

Have a nice day

ciao
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  #29  
Old 2009-03-21, 11:28am
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You also may want to anneal the cane before you cut it in the future. The canes are pulled thick and I am sure they are not put into a kiln to anneal. The Transparent outside with opaque inside will cool at different speeds and cause a little stress.
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  #30  
Old 2009-03-21, 11:43am
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Hi Mike. I will see you in Italy with Mike Frantz!!
That MK saw is a nice saw. I have cut over 30,000 lbs of Lauscha rods with it! And I am only on my second blade!
Paula
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