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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #31  
Old 2011-09-25, 2:44pm
Alaska Alaska is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Truewealth View Post
I definately see a larger torch in my future to work the boro with and another oxycon.... Thinking a scorpion since it seems to work great with the oxycons.
The Cricket will perform better with two concentrators. The Scorpion on NG works fine with two and if using propane three is better.
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  #32  
Old 2011-09-25, 6:26pm
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I've graduated to using 1/16" mandrels as well. But I only use one's I purchased from BeadBoxMan. His seem to be more heat resistant than others I purchased elsewhere.

As long as I don't zone out on the shimmer of the shifting of growing color in the glass and forget and get the mandrel in the flame ... I've been highly successful.
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  #33  
Old 2011-09-26, 6:56am
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Originally Posted by Alaska View Post
The Cricket will perform better with two concentrators. The Scorpion on NG works fine with two and if using propane three is better.
Hmmm..maybe my next step should be to get another 5lpm concentrator(before upgrading my torch) and see how I like the Cricket for soft and boro after that. I'll be buying another oxycon anyway. I don't know why I didn't think of that and the oxycon will be cheaper than a bigger torch.

Can I run a 5lpm coupled with an 8 or 10lpm machine....or would I have to still set all my oxycons to 4.5lpm?

Thanks for the info Alaska!
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Last edited by Truewealth; 2011-09-26 at 7:16am.
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  #34  
Old 2011-09-26, 7:41am
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I believe that oxycons all have to run at the same lpm
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  #35  
Old 2011-09-26, 7:44am
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I don't think so... I think they all have to run at the same PSI. I have a 10 LPM and a 5 LPM running together.
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  #36  
Old 2011-09-26, 7:56am
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Mikelene,
I had a Cricket and work only boro now. I found 2 concentrators important for melting and the striking colors. Yes, you can Y them together as long as they are compatable.

As far as a Jen Ken kiln, I have one without a bead door and I use it daily, for over 8 years. I put fiber blanket on the bottom, lift the top and drop my mandrels in. I keep leather gloves nearby for the moments I spend more time in there. Easy peasy.
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  #37  
Old 2011-09-26, 8:40am
nevadaglass nevadaglass is offline
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I am using my cudda ( still waiting for the new torch to come back) with 1/16 mandrels. Maybe I have been lucky but I havent melted through any of them yet. I also have never laid down a layer of clear first before building a bead so I found that technique pretty interesting. Guess I am curious as to what the clear does....is it more durable than colors?

I have been building white beads overlaid with my striking colors to get brighter colors and havent had any crack yet. I also anneal all of my beads for at least 2 hours at 1050, but I think I am going to go up to 1085 to see what happens since i buy alot of striking colors. Thanks for all the good info!
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  #38  
Old 2011-09-26, 9:07am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevadaglass View Post
I am using my cudda ( still waiting for the new torch to come back) with 1/16 mandrels. Maybe I have been lucky but I havent melted through any of them yet. I also have never laid down a layer of clear first before building a bead so I found that technique pretty interesting. Guess I am curious as to what the clear does....is it more durable than colors?

I have been building white beads overlaid with my striking colors to get brighter colors and havent had any crack yet. I also anneal all of my beads for at least 2 hours at 1050, but I think I am going to go up to 1085 to see what happens since i buy alot of striking colors. Thanks for all the good info!
The clear seems to act as a buffer against some of the colors that have trouble with cracking when they touch the metal mandrel. I don't know the physics behind it, but I think it has something to do with the COE of clear is slightly different than colors, so when you use it as a base and then to encase there is less internal pressure, so less cracking.
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  #39  
Old 2011-09-26, 9:34am
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Thanks Debbie, Kalera & Rose!

Rose....I'm curious what settings you have your JenKen on while you work and what annealing schedule you use? I guess the thought of lifting my kiln lid with high temps freaks me out alittle. I'm not sure if my JenKen is capable of being expanded to include a bead door collar..have to check that too.
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  #40  
Old 2011-09-27, 11:05am
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Love that there is a boro bead thread. thanks. i use 1/8" for necklace beads, 3/32 for earrings. i have not had cracking problems but usually make twisties with a clear core and strip on various colors so maybe i have plenty of clear on the mandrel. i got "Boro Bead Magic"...with Doug Remschneider. this was a great intro and wonderful if you have Glass Alchemy rods, i had only Northstar..... oh well. lovely color combos and good technique tips. Yes, i anneal in a Chili Pepper and think you got good advice on that already. i will reduce pixels and post some photos.

"Boro season" loved that, yeah, hot as hell. i spend Jan-Mar in Tucson and bet that Feb. may be my limit down there.
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  #41  
Old 2011-09-27, 11:21am
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"Boro Bead Magic" is an indispensable video, IMO! I learned so much, it really improved my boro beads by leaps and bounds! I also have Lori, Rocio, and Ron's "Cookbook of Color Borosilicate Recipes" which is an awesome guide to color use and also a wonderful launchpad for experimentation.
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  #42  
Old 2011-09-27, 1:44pm
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I'm too inexperienced to pay much attention to but I use tungsten 1/16" mandrels. They conduct heat like crazy, so I made a 1/4" stainless holder with a small thumbscrew in the end. No problem with melted mandrels or hot fingers. Right now I'm using ABR's bead release. Seems to work well, but getting the beads off isn't as easy as I'd like. Maybe need to double dip?
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  #43  
Old 2011-09-28, 11:30am
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Lets see some pictures! Debbies beads are gorgeous.
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  #44  
Old 2011-09-28, 4:18pm
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I'm too inexperienced to pay much attention to but I use tungsten 1/16" mandrels. They conduct heat like crazy, so I made a 1/4" stainless holder with a small thumbscrew in the end. No problem with melted mandrels or hot fingers. Right now I'm using ABR's bead release. Seems to work well, but getting the beads off isn't as easy as I'd like. Maybe need to double dip?
I use this and only this bead release

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  #45  
Old 2011-09-28, 6:16pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Truewealth View Post
Thanks Debbie, Kalera & Rose!

Rose....I'm curious what settings you have your JenKen on while you work and what annealing schedule you use? I guess the thought of lifting my kiln lid with high temps freaks me out alittle. I'm not sure if my JenKen is capable of being expanded to include a bead door collar..have to check that too.
When working boro I hold it at 985. Soft glass at 930. I've never had a bead door so I just learned to work with it. It's really no big deal, just have a pair of those cheap part leather gardening gloves to use if the handle gets hot or for reaching in. You learn to do it fast

I anneal at 1050 for 30 min. for my regular beads.

Last edited by Rose; 2011-09-28 at 6:20pm.
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  #46  
Old 2011-09-29, 6:12am
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Thanks Rose....I guess the trick is to do it fast!
I appreciate you sharing your working temps and etc!
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  #47  
Old 2011-09-29, 7:01am
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At the flea market I bought a long pair of hemostats, the kind with serrated circular ends. When I'm ready to put the mandrel in the kiln I hold it with those long hemostats, open the door and place the mandrel in the kiln. My kiln door is the front of my kiln and it opens from the top down.
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  #48  
Old 2011-09-29, 7:41am
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Well that would work too....long hemostats...thanks for that tip Gerald!
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  #49  
Old 2011-09-29, 8:56am
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I've been using some ribbon cane and silver colors over sparkle for Pandora style big hole beads... digging the results...







Lots of oxygen and cook it! Definitely not a tech for 1/16th mandrels!
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  #50  
Old 2011-09-29, 9:07am
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When you make boro BHB, do you use a solid or a hollow mandrel? I make BHB in soft glass on hollows, but I'm too chicken to try the hollow mandrels with boro. I have very few BHB mandrels and don't want to kill them.
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  #51  
Old 2011-09-29, 9:47am
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Hollow...
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  #52  
Old 2011-09-29, 9:59am
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Thanks, Brent!
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  #53  
Old 2011-09-29, 10:10am
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I just try to keep the heat on the glass... I have solid ones too, but don't shy away from hollow... I'm sure it wears on them mch faster than soft glass, but feh... mandrels are consumables in my world... LOL
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  #54  
Old 2011-09-29, 10:46am
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Pretty sparkles Brent!
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  #55  
Old 2011-09-29, 10:48am
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Thanks Debbie...
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  #56  
Old 2011-09-29, 11:00am
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Those beads are gorgeous, Brent. I mentioned that earlier, in my head, but apparently you can't hear me there.

Very much a space cadet today...
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Last edited by greywillow; 2011-09-29 at 11:34am. Reason: not yelling, just a doofus
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  #57  
Old 2011-09-29, 11:32am
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Thanks Kristi!
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  #58  
Old 2011-09-29, 2:24pm
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Dude 1/2! Those sparkles look awesome.
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  #59  
Old 2011-09-29, 3:12pm
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So Brent, do you have a line on the sparkly stuff yet?
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  #60  
Old 2011-09-30, 4:25am
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A line on it? I guess I don't understand... might just be me, I haven't had coffee and my back is killing me...
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