Hot Head & Silver Glass Compatibility?

AVTrout · #1 2010-08-31, 5:39pm

So we're moving (Yay!) and I can't use my Carlisle Mini CC and have to use a Hot Head instead (boooo). I've never used anything except my Carlisle so I have no means for comparison. I'm making a glass purchase in the near future, and I'm wondering how glass like Double Helix, Trautman, Kugler work on a Hot Head. Do they turn out as nice as they do on a standard oxygen/propane torch? Cause I don't want to spend the money if it's all going to come out yucky. Also - I love love love COE 90 glass, but I'm thinking it'll take an eternity to melt on a Hot Head. Am I right?

glassbead · #2 2010-09-01, 8:10am

I only work on a hot head, but I haven't spent the $$ for much in the way of silver glass. You CAN reduce in a hot head, but it's not really great. Basically- and before I say this, I must say to research it some more, and you are responsible for your own safety- you have to cover the oxygen intake with something. Some people use an aluminum collar, and I think some torches come with something that works, though I've not seen those. I would get a little silver glass and play with it.
And I have found that, despite what some folks say, if you put a little silver on your bead first and burn it off, then roll in raku frit, you can get some nice colors.
I tried a little bit of 90 coe, and it did melt, but I found the colors reduced, so I didn't fool around with it much.
I'd love to see how your experiments work out!

squid · #3 2010-09-01, 8:14am

I started on a HH and exclusively used BE. If your HH is adjusted right, BE works fine. It is slower than 104, but not that much slower.

*Naos* · #4 2010-09-01, 8:15am

The HotHead has a naturally reducing flame so that part is covered.

Striking is more tricky. So if you're stuck with a HotHead for a bit, save your striking glass and work the reduction silver glass exclusively. You'll be pleasantly surprised how easy it is to reduce on the HotHead.

Firebrand Beads · #5 2010-09-01, 2:54pm

TAG Tibet strikes easily in a Hot head, it strikes like Rubino or the Moretti reds and yellows. Zeus works too, because it likes a reduction and then just reheating in neutral - which effectively strikes that reduction haze and makes it more opaque and colorful. And all of our reducing colors work well on that torch too. In general, if a TAG color is transparent you can work it on a HH, if it's opaque it probably needs the bejeebus heated out of it, and those you should save for a mixed fuel torch.

one hot beader · #6 2010-09-01, 3:38pm

Yup, I work exclusively on a hot head.

Reduction silver glasses work beautifully on a HH. You can even get struck effects, by playing with them. I use a welding glove around the airholes to reduce the oxygen in the flame.

The Striking silver glasses don't work well, the HH just doesnt get the blasting pinpoint heat you can get with a bigger torch.

Raku frit can get some pretty pastel colours of blue and green and I do use it, but it's tough to keep any deep purples and pinks in it, and forget about getting good colours in a whole raku bead.

Otherwise I love my HH and while I am occasionally tempted to step up to another torch the cost of torch and oxycon here is as yet prohibitive to my budget!

Firebrand Beads · #7 2010-09-03, 11:31am

I wonder if Brad's Strikingcolor rods (the transparent ones) would work in the Hothead? I think they look a lot like our Tibet, and that does not need blasting pinpoint heat to strike.

mandyjw · #8 2010-09-03, 11:45am

I've only worked on a hothead and love all the reduction glasses but hate anything striking.

glassmaker · #9 2010-09-06, 2:59pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Firebrand Beads

I wonder if Brad's Strikingcolor rods (the transparent ones) would work in the Hothead? I think they look a lot like our Tibet, and that does not need blasting pinpoint heat to strike.

Personally, I've never had much luck with my (StrikingColor) glass on a HotHead, although I know a couple of other people who have (Sarah Hornik, for example). Part of that may just be my inexperience using a HotHead. But I think the major part is the cooler, reduction flame of the Hothead itself and the fact that, generally speaking, StrikingColor glasses tend to react better to fast heating and a neutral to oxidizing flame.

With that said, the transparent glasses do seem to be the ones most likely to work, based on the feedback I have received. However, as a general rule, I recommend against using StrikingColor on a Hothead because of the variables, and the difficulty of getting good color.

Brad

Edit (many years after original post): Some time after posting the info above I discovered that the MAPP gas overseas is not the same as the MAPP-Pro that is now the only "MAPP type" gas available in the US. Production of the good MAPP in North America ceased in 2008. It was then replaced by a MAPP-Pro fuel that is very obviously branded and packaged to mislead people into thinking that it is the same stuff as the good, formerly available MAPP gas.

The replacement MAPP-Pro burns considerably cooler and works poorly for silver glass. It is nearly pure propylene. The original MAPP is a mixture of several fuel gasses, burns much hotter, and in the hands of someone skilled, can produce some beautiful results with silver glass.

Just thought I would clarify that i someone happens to stumble across this ancient thread (like I just did).