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  #1  
Old 2011-08-27, 5:25pm
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Brandywine Brandywine is offline
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Default Repairing a vintage vaseline style bowl

Hi gang,

I would love some advice on this repair job I need to do on a vintage orange vaseline bowl. These are the bowls you may have seen that were popular in the early '70's that were usually green or yellow and have melted and hand formed edges.

This one is an arte murano made by Icet in venezuela. I believe it was an ashtray originally.

It has become chipped on the rolled edge and I would like to heat it up in the kiln and they soften the edge with the torch to take the sharpness out of the chip. Then anneal it.

Anyone with any experience with this kind of glass ?

Chris
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  #2  
Old 2011-08-27, 5:52pm
LePatron LePatron is offline
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If you do it, be sure to video it just in case it explodes. Thanks. (Oh, and wear eye glasses, k)
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  #3  
Old 2011-08-27, 6:15pm
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Sounds like a question for richsantaclaus... Check the marble room
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  #4  
Old 2011-08-27, 8:23pm
LarryC LarryC is offline
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Do you have any idea of the formulation of the glass? If not, what temperature are you going to anneal at?
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  #5  
Old 2011-08-28, 6:15am
glassshack glassshack is offline
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I would break out a dremel .... sand it here and there .... maybe even etch it some .... anything but getting it back hot ... don't think it would do anything more then shatter or bust .... I don't do repairs just for this reason. If it means something then break out the dremel and some etching cream to do something new w/it Least it'll survive ... or ... you might get luck? GL!
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  #6  
Old 2011-08-28, 2:49pm
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unless you know the composition of the glass and correct annealing temp, then you are just asking for trouble in my opinion. if the customer understands that there is only a 50% chance of it surviving, it might be a fun experiment though.
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  #7  
Old 2011-08-28, 2:54pm
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Not to hijack the thread, but if using a dremel, what tip would you use for glass? There's only a few thousand tips for this thing My intentions arent for this vaseline bowl or whatever the topic is but more for just simple percs.

Last edited by LePatron; 2011-08-28 at 3:09pm.
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  #8  
Old 2011-08-28, 3:40pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LePatron View Post
Not to hijack the thread, but if using a dremel, what tip would you use for glass? There's only a few thousand tips for this thing My intentions arent for this vaseline bowl or whatever the topic is but more for just simple percs.
I always use diamond tips. They also offer a great cable extension tool that connects to the chuck and makes it safe for water drip.
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  #9  
Old 2011-08-28, 7:29pm
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That glass is 96 coe.. or right at it. If you hit the orange glass with the flame, it almost always darkens the color regardless of the flame chemstry. I have made marbles out of a lot of the yellow/ green vaseline glass, and they hold the color just fine. The orange thought is another story.. Based on the makeup of the glass, it won't take the direct heat of the torch without changing the color..
You might get away with hitting it just enough to soften the edges of the bowl without the flame touching the glass..
Heat it up to 500 for 3 hours( could do less, but be safe)... then ramp up to 900 for 1 hour and then you can work the rim..
Good luck!!
Joe
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  #10  
Old 2011-09-20, 9:10am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joebirder View Post
That glass is 96 coe.. or right at it. If you hit the orange glass with the flame, it almost always darkens the color regardless of the flame chemstry. I have made marbles out of a lot of the yellow/ green vaseline glass, and they hold the color just fine. The orange thought is another story.. Based on the makeup of the glass, it won't take the direct heat of the torch without changing the color..
You might get away with hitting it just enough to soften the edges of the bowl without the flame touching the glass..
Heat it up to 500 for 3 hours( could do less, but be safe)... then ramp up to 900 for 1 hour and then you can work the rim..
Good luck!!
Joe

Thanks Joe,

Very Cool info.
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  #11  
Old 2011-09-21, 8:59am
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making the repair is a simple matter. the hard part will keeping the color of the glass the same. I have tried many repairs such as the one you are describing here. Put it in the oven to get it up to temp. then use a torch to make your repairs, then anneal it. This type of glass, I have always annealed at 950 degrees. Right or Wrong, it has always worked for me. The hard part is getting the gas,air,oxy mix right before you touch torch to glass. As we all know, if the mix is not right, the color could be mess up. If at all possible, chip off a small chip, say the size of a BB and experiment with it first. Its already chipped..another little one should'nt hurt any. My success rate on doing such repairs has been about 50%. Sometimes it works...some times it dont.
Let us know the outcome
Mike
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  #12  
Old 2011-09-22, 6:44am
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Without a picture I don't know if this would work, but what about beveling that edge with a flat lap? Then you could match the bevel on the other side or on four sides.
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  #13  
Old 2011-09-22, 8:08am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ginkgoglass View Post
Without a picture I don't know if this would work, but what about beveling that edge with a flat lap? Then you could match the bevel on the other side or on four sides.
A flat lap would work on a square edge, but this particular dish has very curled and wavy edges. It is very 'artistic' and does not lend itself to easy repair. I think my best option is to carefully sand it with very fine grit to smooth out the sharp bits, and keep the color the same.
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  #14  
Old 2011-09-22, 8:29am
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You could try getting advice for heating it up from the fusing bulletin board at http://www.warmglass.com/phpBB/index.php but even at a slow ramp of 200 degrees per hour you could easily crack it. If you successfully reached fire polish temp. it could distort the entire bow. Annealing is another challenge since you don't know the COE. I agree that cold working is the safer way. If you know someone who fuses glass they will probably have a little grinder like a Glastar All Star that would grind away the chip. They have grits as fine as 600. Then you could polish it with cerium oxide (under water) using a dremmel with the cable and a felt pad attachment.

Good luck!
Pam
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  #15  
Old 2011-09-22, 10:33am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandywine View Post
A flat lap would work on a square edge, but this particular dish has very curled and wavy edges. It is very 'artistic' and does not lend itself to easy repair. I think my best option is to carefully sand it with very fine grit to smooth out the sharp bits, and keep the color the same.
That would be a job for a spherical diamond wheel on an arbor. The final polish could also be done on the arbor using a felt wheel and cerium. This is how I would approach it.
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  #16  
Old 2011-09-23, 2:34pm
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too bad it is a rim chip. most museum conservators who repair glass use very clear epoxy compounds to mend big breaks..................... but that won't help you. sorry
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  #17  
Old 2011-09-23, 8:29pm
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I'd probably go at it with a round brass rod charged with some diamond paste, no power tools at all, until the edges and surfaces were the way I wanted them. Then, maybe the Dremel to final polish. Diamond paste is cheap enough these days and you'll get a way better finish.
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  #18  
Old 2012-07-24, 9:59am
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Default went with sanding

I finally used simple very fine sanding cloth to buff the sharp edge and smooth it, then finished with 1000G mesh and it worked fine. The bowl is back in use and you cant tell there has been a repair.

After thinking about firing the edge of the dish (after bring it up to temp in the kiln), I could see it cracking. Grinding would most likely chip this sort of glass. Cold work in the way of slow sanding seemed the best option.
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  #19  
Old 2012-07-24, 9:54pm
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I just saw your post and you did the right thing. I collect depression, elegant and vintage glass and belong to a depression glass club. When we have our annual show we try to have a repair person and they always do cold work. I have taken pieces of broken glass and experimented with torch work, but you have to be careful because some of the older glasses had REALLY bad chemicals in them to make them fluoresce under black light - like vaseline glass. Glad you had success.
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