How to make a foot pedal for your torch

dclutter64 · #1 2012-01-29, 1:32pm

Thanks to Trey Cornette I have a new foot pedal for my torch.
I bought 2 of these on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/120732978792...9#ht_743wt_908 and a foot switch from Harbor Freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/power-m...tch-96618.html

My hubby welded a box together but you could use wood or Trey had his without a box. Then he wired it together and attached it to my torch.

All under a $100 and he painted it purple of course!

It works great! Thanks Trey for the tips!

glassactcc · #2 2012-01-29, 1:57pm

Thanks for posting this. I'll have to show my husband. Do you know if it works for any torch?

Signguy · #3 2012-01-29, 4:32pm

Very cool!

Has Trey published a how to do it for this? I searched but did not find anything.

I'd love to know a little more - can you post a sketch or photos or anything showing how it was wired and plumbed? It seems obvious, but don't wont to miss anything and maybe have a safety problem...

Thanks!

dclutter64 · #4 2012-01-29, 4:45pm

I took a class with Trey and he told me were to get the solenoids. My husband figured everything out. I can see if my husband can draw up a sketch. He is good at that. Maybe I can put it all in a pdf file.

Signguy · #5 2012-01-29, 5:01pm

That would be awesome!

I'm pretty us I get it, but it would be nice to know I'm right and not blow up the studio or something...

Please Tell DH we all said thanks!

Dale M. · #6 2012-01-30, 7:31am

It's not difficult... Its merely a switch (foot switch) that controls power to two solenoids....

Can do a work up (diagram & parts list) if you wish...

Dale

glassactcc · #7 2012-01-30, 8:52am

I am a bit confused. Is this to turn the torch on and off, or is it to control the inner and outer flame?

cheng076 · #8 2012-01-30, 10:43am

Glassactcc,
It is used to control the outer flame. It is used when a torch has 2 flame rings and 4 hose connections (four studs). It turns the outer ring off and on thus saving having to twist the knobs saving time and oxygen. I find about a 10 percent savings with my work style. My torch has 3 flame rings so my foot pedal has 4 solenoids and 2 switches and the plumbing is a bit more complicated. Usually the inner or center flame is left on and is plumbed direct.

glowinglass · #9 2012-01-30, 1:06pm

Dale, if you would do that it'd be greatly appreciated - I've been regretting buying a 4-stud Phantom 3yrs ago and not getting the benefit.

glassactcc · #10 2012-01-30, 1:57pm

Thank you so much for the explanation

Quote:

Originally Posted by cheng076

Glassactcc,
It is used to control the outer flame. It is used when a torch has 2 flame rings and 4 hose connections (four studs). It turns the outer ring off and on thus saving having to twist the knobs saving time and oxygen. I find about a 10 percent savings with my work style. My torch has 3 flame rings so my foot pedal has 4 solenoids and 2 switches and the plumbing is a bit more complicated. Usually the inner or center flame is left on and is plumbed direct.

Lyssa · #11 2012-01-30, 2:34pm

I'd like a foot switch for my Minor to go from a normal flame to small stringer work flame. Is that even possible?

Alaska · #12 2012-01-30, 2:52pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lyssa

I'd like a foot switch for my Minor to go from a normal flame to small stringer work flame. Is that even possible?

One could put in a by pass valve around each solenoid and set for the small flame. Then when activated the full flow would be available for the larger flame.

cheng076 · #13 2012-01-30, 3:44pm

I couldn't find a way to attach photos to a PM so I'm putting pics of my solenoid here for glassactcc. My solenoids are attached to the bottom of my bench and the pedal has 2 switches; one for the middle flame and one for the outer.

Dale M. · #14 2012-01-30, 5:45pm

OK... Here is "basic" diagram ...

This is for torch with center and outer flame (4 stud)..

The plain "Out" is merely a straight through from the "In" (center fire) ...

The "Out (cont.)" is the output to outer ring(s) or "controlled" by solenoids...

For torch with inner flame and 2 and 3 outer rings (6 stud) You pretty much have to double everything up (solenoids - outputs - switch) ...

IF I get time I will do a 1/2 drawing of 4 stud model....

Dale

RedToroBoro · #15 2012-01-30, 5:57pm

Go to talkglass.com type pedal in search and there are a few different tuts for diy foot switches.

Good luck

Signguy · #16 2012-01-30, 6:39pm

Thanks all!

Dale, the diagram is great! If you have time to post a four stud version I'd love it as my Bravo needs that.

Looks pretty straight-forward...makes me wonder why the manufactured ones are so pricy. I bet a lot of that cost is the premiums the mfg has to pay for liability insurance.

Erik

dclutter64 · #17 2012-01-30, 7:47pm

Thanks Dale for providing the diagram. My hubby (Dale also) was drawing one up with the parts list also but he wasn't finished yet. He had originally wanted to make his own foot switch but I wanted a pedal that was easy to find.
He had been meaning to make me a foot switch for my scorpion ever since I got it a couple of years ago but he had been busy. So when I took Trey's class he was showing us his so I took pictures and told my hubby I wanted a petal.
So off he went to get the parts and weld me up a box. Then he tells me "you know I didn't need any help with building the foot petal" I know, but it did get him motivated so I think Trey for that!

Dale M. · #18 2012-01-30, 8:07pm

Here is the promised "half" drawing for a 6 stud switch.... Remember you have to build the identical fuel side so all the parts you see here (solenoids and plumbing fittings) need to be double the amount shown in sketch..

Here is "companion" fuel side...

Dale

dclutter64 · #19 2012-01-30, 8:13pm

Dale the pictures look the same!

Signguy · #20 2012-01-30, 8:30pm

I think the confusion is that this diagram just shows one side (half) of what is needed for the four stud.

I believe You can build this way to eliminate using y connectors or use y's and then put the two stud version on the outer fire side only. Is that right, Dale?

Also, Dale would it work to use two foot pedals and put one on each set of solinoids so that you could switch both fires individually instead of just the outer? Although I suppose then you have a pilot light problem...

Be cool to not have to change the valves and just shut off for a break...

Dale M. · #21 2012-01-30, 8:45pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by dclutter64

Dale the pictures look the same!

Basically they are BUT I changed out the W.E. #32 oxygen "B" fittings and "oxygen" in/out designations (in first drawing) for a WE #33 fuel "B" fitting and "fuel" in/out designations (in second drawing) ...

And there is a tiny detail on fuel "B" fittings that indicated "left hand" threads by tiny "groove" in hex portion where wrench us used to tighten them up...

Basically you are building two complete units, one for fuel, one for oxygen...

Dale

Dale M. · #22 2012-01-30, 8:53pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Signguy

I think the confusion is that this diagram just shows one side (half) of what is needed for the four stud.

I believe You can build this way to eliminate using y connectors or use y's and then put the two stud version on the outer fire side only. Is that right, Dale?

Also, Dale would it work to use two foot pedals and put one on each set of solinoids so that you could switch both fires individually instead of just the outer? Although I suppose then you have a pilot light problem...

Be cool to not have to change the valves and just shut off for a break...

Actually if you look at first sketch, it has a through pipe for oxygen and fuel for center fire and solenoid valve on other outlet ('cont.' - for controlled) .... It's basically same as a "Y" connector with valve (electrical) on only one output..

It's all just a bit of plumbing "magic" you can do just about anything you want as long as you get fuel and oxygen coordinated to torch function and whatever you are trying to accomplish...

Dale

Dale M. · #23 2012-01-30, 9:00pm

Also Switch "A and Switch 'B" could also be labeled "Foot Pedal "A" or Foot Pedal "B"

Or foot pedal half depressed ("A" operated) and pedal fully depressed ("A" + "B" operated).. The "function" can be what ever you want ... Note how switches are setup on "cheng076's" pictures.......

Dale

volkanokaren · #24 2012-01-30, 9:08pm

Lucky girl Debra,love the purple.
This is such an interesting thread.
I just wanted to say how generous you peeps are for sharing this info.
Dale,nice diagram and explanation.

Karen
Volkano Exotik

ripzz

cheng076 · #25 2012-01-30, 9:26pm

I may be wrong but I think of a 2 stud torch as one with just a single flame such as a lynx. A 4 stud would have two flame rings; inner or center and an outer ring such as a GTT Phantom. And a 6 stud torch such as a Kabuki has 3 flame rings; center, middle, and outer flame rings. There is no need for a footpedal on a single flame ring torch, you control only the outer ring on a 2 flame ring torch and you control the outer and middle rings on a 6 stud or 3 flame ring torch. I learned the a 'stud' is a single hose connection on the torch. As an example some torches come in 2 and 4 stud versions and if the torch has 2 flame rings and 2 studs then you can only control the outer ring with the torch valves; a foot pedal will not work. You can however hook up a 4 stud torch with 'Y' connections so a foot pedal is not needed but you control the outer flame with the torch vakves also. I hope this makes sense, it's late and I've had a long day.

So I think the nomenclature above is incorrect; but I may be wrong.

Great drawings BTW.

Dale M. · #26 2012-01-30, 9:44pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by cheng076

I may be wrong but I think of a 2 stud torch as one with just a single flame such as a lynx. A 4 stud would have two flame rings; inner or center and an outer ring such as a GTT Phantom. And a 6 stud torch such as a Kabuki has 3 flame rings; center, middle, and outer flame rings. There is no need for a footpedal on a single flame ring torch, you control only the outer ring on a 2 flame ring torch and you control the outer and middle rings on a 6 stud or 3 flame ring torch. I learned the a 'stud' is a single hose connection on the torch. As an example some torches come in 2 and 4 stud versions and if the torch has 2 flame rings and 2 studs then you can only control the outer ring with the torch valves; a foot pedal will not work. You can however hook up a 4 stud torch with 'Y' connections so a foot pedal is not needed but you control the outer flame with the torch vakves also. I hope this makes sense, it's late and I've had a long day.

So I think the nomenclature above is incorrect; but I may be wrong.

Great drawings BTW.

As referenced to highlighted text in quote, it may be 2 stud but you have manual control of both rings by knob control (GTT Sidewinder 2 stud)...

Actually I think you are correct..... I did go back and edit my previous posts of 2 or 4 or 6 studs...

I agree that a 2 stud (1 fuel and 1 oxygen inlet) would be the common torch with a single "center fire" and a 4 stud would be a torch with a center fire and a single outer ring (2 fuel and 2 oxygen inlets), and 6 stud would be a torch with a center fire and 2 independent outer rings (3 fuel and 3 oxygen inlets) .... Only exception in GTT line may be Sidewinder which comes in either 2 or 4 stud version....

Funny how brain asks you "did you actually get it correct" about 20 minutes after you have shut computer down and walked away....

And I agree on "its late and been a long day"...

Dale

Signguy · #27 2012-01-30, 11:03pm

I think I've got it - it's the definition of "studs" vs "knobs" that is confusing some of us...

So, if you have a torch with an outer and inner flame, with seperate inputs for each fire, and want to control just the outer, the first diagram is fine.

But if you have a triple fire, or want to control both the inner and the outer fire with two seperate switches, you'd need the second drawing instead.

Right?

Also, anyone more knowledgeable have an opinion about the quality and safety of the valves referenced with the original eBay link? Or is it better to shop Grainger or another supplier instead?

Thanks again - this info is invaluable for those of us who want to DIY, but have it safe!

bead crazy · #28 2012-01-31, 1:05am

If I had my Scorpion on tank on the outer ring and concentrator on the inner. I would just need a foot switch for the outer ring right? So I would only need 1/2 of the set up that you showed right??

Dale M. · #29 2012-01-31, 4:40am

Quote:

Originally Posted by Signguy

I think I've got it - it's the definition of "studs" vs "knobs" that is confusing some of us...

So, if you have a torch with an outer and inner flame, with seperate inputs for each fire, and want to control just the outer, the first diagram is fine.

But if you have a triple fire, or want to control both the inner and the outer fire with two seperate switches, you'd need the second drawing instead.

Right?

I think you've got it!

Dale

Dale M. · #30 2012-01-31, 4:46am

Quote:

Originally Posted by bead crazy

If I had my Scorpion on tank on the outer ring and concentrator on the inner. I would just need a foot switch for the outer ring right? So I would only need 1/2 of the set up that you showed right??

IF torch is a "4 STUD" model, yes you would only need a set of basic solenoids (2) for outer ring .. Just put a "plug" in place of the "out" "B" fitting in the straight through line to what would be center fire of the "basic" drawing FOR the OXYGEN side ... So all you would have is the "IN" lines and the "out (cont.)" lines for oxygen side (of outer ring) and just run concentrator line to "center fire" stud....

The FUEL side can remain the same as "basic" sketch.... As it acts as a "Y" splitter for fuel where one side (straight through) would go to center fire stud and other side of "Y" with solenoid would go to outer ring stud...

I hope this makes sense in the daylight, its 4:00 am when I'm doing this and I'm supposed to be asleep...

Dale