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| Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions. |
2012-06-04, 3:42pm
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Tag mai tai
Hi Guys! Whats up with Mai Tai? All I can ever get is yellowish stuff and deep (but bright) blues. I thought this was a pink/purple glass? Is there a secret hidden somewhere?
Duane
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2012-06-04, 3:44pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demcc2
Hi Guys! Whats up with Mai Tai? All I can ever get is yellowish stuff and deep (but bright) blues. I thought this was a pink/purple glass? Is there a secret hidden somewhere?
Duane
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Have you tried kiln striking? The regular variety of this likes to be struck in the kiln.
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2012-06-04, 5:10pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demcc2
Hi Guys! Whats up with Mai Tai? All I can ever get is yellowish stuff and deep (but bright) blues. I thought this was a pink/purple glass? Is there a secret hidden somewhere?
Duane
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I cook the snot out of it ... let cool ... then strike in mid to back of the flame (I get a dark amber blush in places).
Then the kiln does the rest.
If you strike it close to cones then I get the opaque blue/purple.
Don't be afraid to pop it back in the kiln if you don't like it. It gets more purple with each cycle.
There should be a thread around here somewhere under the tag line of Box of Mystery. Here's the link: http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...hlight=Mystery
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2012-06-04, 8:58pm
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I find I get ambers, blues light to navy and even some green and purple but I have not gotten any pinks either
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2012-06-04, 9:23pm
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Pinks and purples come out in the kiln strike for me.....KILN strike.
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2012-06-05, 12:16am
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And i was told run that kiln a little hotter to strike this one good, numbers may still be at work
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2012-06-05, 2:57am
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Jenny (Firebrand Beads) from TAG had shown a sample paddle once that Paul did that had the blues ... he reduced per her notes.
What Larry said is spot on ... the magic happens in the kiln with this one. If you are getting amber ... toss the puppies back in and set your temp about 50 degrees higher to start. It likes long and hot!!
I've never gotten anything other than a few wispy blues ... I alwaays get the pinks and some purples ... I'll go grab some pixs.
I work it at the beginning of my torch session so it has lots of time to garage (@1050) and I use tanked oxy for it. I don't get the colors on my M15.
I cook, cool and cook some more. Watch the shimmer (ask me how many mandrels I've burnt through watching the shimmer instead of paying attention to how hot my mandrel got ... oooops). I let cool until the glow is gone and then I flame strike. The darker the amber I get flame striking the more purple I will get out of the kiln. If it doesn't flame strike to the color amber I want ... I cook it some more.
I usually anneal at 1065 but have read notes to even take it up to 1150 to get better/faster color.
Hope this helps.
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2012-06-05, 3:17am
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Mai Tai pix
First pix is clear, then Mai Tai, then Triple Passion frit
The Pen is Egyptian White Sand and then Mai Tai. The Mai Tai had some reduction worked in and went through two kiln cycles. I didn't have enough color after one so I tossed it back in.
The earrings are Mai Tai over Dwarf White
Last set is a variety of bases and Mai Tai.
As you can tell ... I LOVE this glass. I don't encase either Mai Tai or Dbl Mai Tai ... I think it looks better unencased ... but maybe that is just me.
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2012-06-05, 6:40am
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Definitely a kiln striker. TAG eludes to that in the descriptions.
A gorgeous kiln-striking amber-purple glass, that has lots of pink and purple, and hardly any amber! Work in a variety of atmospheres for different effects, and burn off the haze. Generally this glass only strikes in the flame to a light amber - but when you kiln strike at 1050 F or higher, you get the eye-popping pinks and purples. Can be struck repeatedly to deepen the color, giving the artist a lot of control over the final shade.
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2012-06-05, 7:25am
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Beautiful Work Laura. Looks like you have this one figured out 
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2012-06-05, 10:36am
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Thanks Larry. Not quite totally figured out ... I can't get the blues from redux that Jenny showed. But I really like what I do get!!
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2012-06-06, 11:12am
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Work it really hot and burn all the color out, then strike it to yellow/amber. Then pop it into the kiln. Kiln strike it at 1150-1200 and you'll get great colors.
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2012-06-06, 5:58pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cosmo
Work it really hot and burn all the color out, then strike it to yellow/amber. Then pop it into the kiln. Kiln strike it at 1150-1200 and you'll get great colors.
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Is this ok for ALL boro? I'm using a program that has a high of 1085
Duane
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2012-06-07, 5:44am
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Just keep tossing it back in each kiln cycle until you get the color you want.... works for me.... lol...
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2012-06-07, 6:17am
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Duane - If you get a chance, try Double Mai Tai. It's almost impossible not to get color with that one ;-D Same deal, heat to honey and strike.
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2012-06-07, 7:27am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demcc2
Is this ok for ALL boro? I'm using a program that has a high of 1085
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It should be ok - but your kiln may vary. The temperature reading is taken at the pyrometer, which is often not where the glass is, so Cosmo's 1200 may only be 1150 where his glass is, while in your kiln it could be 1225 - or 1100... You can actually run some tests to check that, I think Bandhu describes a procedure in his books.
Also, remember that chrome colors will experience COE shift (and checking) if held too long at high temperatures - or even too long at annealing temperature.
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2012-06-07, 7:46am
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demcc...... most striking colors do like to be flashed at 1150-1200. i personally like to flame strike just about everything. but, some colors like Mai Tai, require a good kiln soak. pretty much anything in the amber purple family can be treated the same.
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2012-06-07, 7:48am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samandsha
Duane - If you get a chance, try Double Mai Tai. It's almost impossible not to get color with that one ;-D Same deal, heat to honey and strike.
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Thanks Samma! I actually have some double AND even some Mega
Duane
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2012-06-07, 4:46pm
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Wow, I want this glass.
And those beads in Laura's first picture...
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2012-06-08, 6:12am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demcc2
Is this ok for ALL boro? I'm using a program that has a high of 1085
Duane
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It depends on who you ask. If you ask someone like Doug Remschneider, he says different colors strike at different temperatures. But, then I've heard some people say that every color strikes at the same temperature. And then I've heard some people say to flame strike everything and not to kiln strike at all.
Personally, I do different things for different colors. But, most of what I do I kiln strike as mentioned earlier. The only things I don't do that with are if I'm using a striking red or an orange like NS Orange, as they tend to go opaque if struck too high. Those colors will strike in the kiln at regular annealing temperature.
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2012-06-15, 4:26pm
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Duane, the description you first gave - yellow/ambers with deep blues - sounds like you are getting quite a bit of reduction on the surface before kiln-striking. On Mai Tai Pink the blue generally comes out in the kiln from the reduction haze. Paul likes to get his gather hot, stir a little air out (air is common in this formula) switch to a half-reducing flame and stir a little more, working some of the reduction into the glass for depth. He finishes his shape and either clears surface haze off or gives one more light waft in the lightly reducing flame before he anneals.
In the first image here, you can see some ambers from flame working, and the batch reference in red glass. You can also see a little reduction because I tipped it into the light. In the second image you can see the same piece after kiln-striking, and you can see on the right edge where he burned off the haze, and see the haze on the rest of the piece look bluer. What's cool about MTP is that you can't really over-anneal it. (Unless of course you used some glitter glass in the same piece that is - those do not like long or hot kiln times/temps.) But the A/P colors do like it hot and MTP is an Amber/Purple.
 
Also note that the reduction Paul worked into the sample has gone to a more opaque amber streak in the struck photo. But do you see what I mean about the reduction going bluer? This is what makes me think you may in fact be over-reducing the MTP before it even goes into the kiln. Are you using tanked oxy or a concentrator? What torch are you using?
Thanks for asking, Duane.
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"In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice; in practice there is." ~ Chuck Reid
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2012-06-17, 3:49pm
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I'm too lazy for kiln striking... I'm in lust with Mega Mai Tai
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2012-06-17, 4:58pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zen-mom
I'm too lazy for kiln striking... I'm in lust with Mega Mai Tai |
Dbl Mai Tai flame strikes as well. As far as I know, just the Mai Tai Pink is a kiln striker from the Mai Tai family.
I'm a flame striker myself ... so working Mai Tai Pink originally was really weird for me. I like to have half a clue of what I've got when I put it in the kiln.
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2012-06-17, 5:05pm
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This glass, this thread, and these pictures are what made me finally take the plunge and get some boro. And not just double and mega Mai tai, but four other colours as well. Eek!
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2012-06-17, 5:11pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverlilly1
This glass, this thread, and these pictures are what made me finally take the plunge and get some boro. And not just double and mega Mai tai, but four other colours as well. Eek!
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Welcome to the addiction.
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2012-06-21, 3:34pm
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LOL! Welcome to the "dark side" Melissa. I have wondered why they call it that but I can't see anything from behind these boro shade 3's....
Ok, I kid!
But this reminds me that I will be pulling together some sample kits for the ISGB Gathering this year, with some of the easy-to-use boro colors for those who want to play with the 33. SO - what are the TAG colors you find most easy to use? What would you recommend for a beginner? The Red Elvis of course, because - like Laura said - people like to see what they got before it goes in the kiln. I am thinking some Double Mai Tai too, for that same reason. And some Blue Stardust. What else in the TAG line would you guys and gals suggest for a boro-beginner? Thanks!!
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2012-06-21, 8:29pm
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Mighty Moss!!!!
Heavy Blue Lep (I give up spelling the little gnome).
I love these and they are implodable ... big bonus.
Prenumbra
Purple Sable.
I like sparkle and color shifting!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firebrand Beads
LOL! Welcome to the "dark side" Melissa. I have wondered why they call it that but I can't see anything from behind these boro shade 3's....
Ok, I kid!
But this reminds me that I will be pulling together some sample kits for the ISGB Gathering this year, with some of the easy-to-use boro colors for those who want to play with the 33. SO - what are the TAG colors you find most easy to use? What would you recommend for a beginner? The Red Elvis of course, because - like Laura said - people like to see what they got before it goes in the kiln. I am thinking some Double Mai Tai too, for that same reason. And some Blue Stardust. What else in the TAG line would you guys and gals suggest for a boro-beginner? Thanks!!
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2012-06-22, 12:22am
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Love the purple sable but i dont think it qualifies as a beginner color.
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2012-06-22, 4:18am
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Hi everyone! Jenny, thanks for the great descriptions and samples from Paul- those help a lot.
I was speaking with Pam the other day about my annealling program and to help her "see" what I was asking I had copied and pasted my annealing program (which she gave me originally). She noticed that one of my figures was entered as ".2" when it should have been "2" She mentioned that that could very well be the problem (yah think  ) Pam, don't worry it WASN'T you, it was totally me ! 
Duane
PS I've been playing with soft lately so haven't gone back to try Mai Tai again yet
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2012-06-23, 7:53am
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I tried Mega Mai Tai last night. What a disaster! I'll post a picture later.
Seriously, Laura, are those beads for sale?
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