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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2008-04-23, 7:04pm
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Default Reichenbach Dark Gold Pink

I bought some of this and I loved the color on the web site, but it comes out really dark, almost black looking..on the site it shows the color to be a pretty pink. Ive tried working in an oxy rich and propane heavy flame..and I believe striking (?? where you let the bead cool just enough where it wont crack and reintroduce it into the flame for a short time again??) Ive made about 10 small spacer beads and they all have the same ugly dark color.

Does anyone know if any of the Reichenbach colors strike in the kiln?? Im hoping to pull out pretty pink beads from my kiln tommorrow ..any other suggestions? Some of the other colors are doing the same for me, but I didnt work with those colors as much as this one..is there a secret to this color?
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  #2  
Old 2008-04-23, 7:09pm
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I'm pretty sure the photos on OCR's website show the colors as blown glass. Like Tink's vessels. So the color would be less dense than if you are making beads out of it. I would get some of the Reichenbach white (or if you want transparent beads then clear) and layer your Gold pink over it.
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  #3  
Old 2008-04-23, 7:09pm
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I don't know about that color specifically, but a lot of the Reichenbach colors are pretty saturated. I often use them as a thin coat over another lighter color.
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  #4  
Old 2008-04-23, 7:32pm
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Thanks!
Im going to go try that.
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  #5  
Old 2008-04-23, 7:44pm
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i loooove looove loooove the R colors, i think i have the whole line by now...lol.... they are definately super saturated strong color..which is good for us as you have to use less but still get those killer colors! dilute them, take a clear rod and paint or coat it with the red like you were going to make a floral stringer....then pull your stringers from that fat or thin however you like them...use that to color your bead...most of them spread really good..youll love these colors!! Try the salmon or amethyst color...dont look that impressive in the rod but diluted OMG they rock!!
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  #6  
Old 2008-04-24, 4:23am
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With the pink, coating clear or White and then coating again with clear and pulling into a stinger will help. The second coat of clear can help reduce the chance of the pink going livery.
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Last edited by pierces*designs; 2008-04-24 at 4:25am.
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  #7  
Old 2008-04-24, 6:54am
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Ty, I will try applying two coats, I tried one coat of white and of clear, but they were still looking brownish..I tired mashing the color w/ white and still got a really dark color..no pink
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  #8  
Old 2008-04-25, 1:35pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherie View Post
I bought some of this and I loved the color on the web site, but it comes out really dark, almost black looking..on the site it shows the color to be a pretty pink. Ive tried working in an oxy rich and propane heavy flame..and I believe striking (?? where you let the bead cool just enough where it wont crack and reintroduce it into the flame for a short time again??) Ive made about 10 small spacer beads and they all have the same ugly dark color.

Does anyone know if any of the Reichenbach colors strike in the kiln?? Im hoping to pull out pretty pink beads from my kiln tommorrow ..any other suggestions? Some of the other colors are doing the same for me, but I didnt work with those colors as much as this one..is there a secret to this color?
A girlfriend gave me a lovely Reichenbach pink, and it was doing funny things so I checked and it had whackloads of lead in it. Your pink might not have lead - i have no way of knowing if it is the same pink as mine was. But give a try at cutting the propane way way down, and work as cool as you can. Think of how Rubino Oro may have burnt out when you first tried it, and then use the technique you would use if it were a very delicate batch of Rubino Oro. Hope this helps.

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Carol Anne
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  #9  
Old 2013-09-09, 2:37pm
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I ordered this last week and it just got here today. The rods actually appear opaque, so I'm just wondering in there is any more information on this color, or even any pictures of beads using it?
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  #10  
Old 2013-09-09, 4:45pm
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The intense reichenbach (and other glassblowing colors) are some of my favorites. They hold intense color where most other glass is too thin to even see.

Most of them are similar in density to effetre black (which is actually a very nice purple when thin). Make encased stringer with a very thin layer over white and the color will pop.
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  #11  
Old 2013-09-09, 5:13pm
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Thank you, I'll try that tomorrow. I stared at it for quite a while, trying to figure out why I had bought something so dark! Then I looked it up on the website & saw why (the name on the rods was different from the name on the website, but the number was the same).
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  #12  
Old 2013-09-09, 5:28pm
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I have had the same difficulties with the beautiful R colors.I am glad you posted this thread..thank you all for the helpful comments for Cheri..Sari Blue..Lagoon.Tourmaline etc..here I come!
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  #13  
Old 2013-09-09, 8:05pm
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I work with it all the time and it is not difficult to work with. You do not need to flame strike it. A neutral flame turned up on the oxy a little makes a slightly oxidizing flame, and working about 4-5 inches from the torch head is what I do.
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  #14  
Old 2013-09-11, 8:42am
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I mix these colors with clear. Totally mixed. That way you can get from light to dark, depending what you want.
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Old 2013-09-11, 8:47am
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I put some over white and pulled a stringer yesterday, much better.
I will try it with the clear next, because I really did want transparent. Over white it was pretty much the opaque deep pink I had also ordered, but with a shinier finish I think.
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Old 2013-09-11, 10:10pm
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Oh...you are talking about the rods, not the frit? The rods are very saturated with color, so it can be really dark unless you pull stringer and use it over clear or white. If the rods are thick, another thing you can do is pull a thick stringer from it and then make a round gather on the end of a compatible clear, other transparent color, or white. Then take your gold pink thick stringer and wrap around to stringer-encase the gather. Push against each wrap gently to push our bubbles as you are encasing. Put a punty of the same gather color on the other side of this encased gather, then get it hot and pull your pink encased stringer. But if the gold pink rods are thin enough to comfortably do 'around the world' encasing on a gather, then there is no need to pull it down to a thick stringer.
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  #17  
Old 2013-09-12, 7:03am
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Ah, you thought we were talking about frit! I wondered how you were getting it to lighten up without doing as suggested earlier, now it makes sense. And you've made me think, so maybe I'll make some frit out of a little also, that might come in handy sometime.

And yes, making the stringer putting pink over a core of white is what I did after reading the suggestions above, and today I'm making stringer encasing clear with the white.
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  #18  
Old 2013-09-12, 7:23am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pierces*designs View Post
With the pink, coating clear or White and then coating again with clear and pulling into a stinger will help. The second coat of clear can help reduce the chance of the pink going livery.
Oh awesome tip. I love the look of this kind of cane when applied.
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  #19  
Old 2013-09-12, 7:48am
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I forgot why to encase, will do some more over white with the clear encasing, thanks!
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  #20  
Old 2013-09-12, 8:53am
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Reichenbach pinks and purples are sensitive to heat and will pit and bubble fairly easily so it is a good practice to encase in clear unless you generally work very cool. I work pretty hot so I always encase my pinks and purples in clear before applying them to give them that layer of "protection".
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  #21  
Old 2013-09-12, 9:19am
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I do notice I have to remind myself to come closer to the flame sometimes if I'm trying to put down a base, etc. so it might be OK, but I will try to remember to keep my unencased stringer cool, thanks. I gave half of it to my sister for use in her fusing, so I'll tell her to test it before using it in anything important.
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