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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2014-03-31, 8:16pm
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Default What is going on

I have noticed that some of my blue beads get this brown gunk on them. Sometimes it looks good but most of the time it looks like crap.Am I doing something wrong when I make them? Is there an easy way to get it off?
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  #2  
Old 2014-03-31, 8:23pm
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It's hard to tell, but I'm guessing it is from a reduction flame.
Try working out a bit from the torch (are you on a Hot Head?) more.
It seems like most of us initially have a tendency to move toward the torch face too much, but the flame burns cleaner out at the tip of the blue part of the flame.
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  #3  
Old 2014-03-31, 8:24pm
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Okay, I'll try working farther away from the torch. Is there anyway to clean these off?
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  #4  
Old 2014-03-31, 9:16pm
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If you're using an oxy/propane torch, add more oxygen to your flame. If you catch it while you're still working on the bead, you may be able to clean it up with the oxidizing flame.
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Old 2014-03-31, 9:31pm
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Try soaking in coca cola overnight.
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  #6  
Old 2014-04-01, 3:14am
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Some people want that reaction. =)
Is it turquoise? Looks like what they said, above. =)
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Old 2014-04-01, 9:33am
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You're bringing the copper in the turquoise to the surface. As most everyone else said, your flame is probably on the reduction side (more fuel than oxy). If the Coke/Pepsi doesn't work with those, try CLR or toilet bowl cleaner (just be careful!). And if you're on a dual torch, adjust your oxy/fuel mix.
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Old 2014-04-01, 12:23pm
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The other people are right, you are using too much gas in your torch flame and getting a reduction atmosphere. The blue color in the glass you are using is produced from copper in the glass. Working it with too much reduction will turn the cupric oxide (which makes it blue) into cuprous oxide and/or copper metal, both of which can produce red/brown colors.

Either use less gas or more oxygen in your flame to solve the problem. Also, don't work the glass immediately in front of the torch face. Working it farther out in the flame is better since there's more oxygen out there.

This assumes you're on a gas/oxy torch. If you're using a Hothead or other single fuel torch, working out at the tip of the flame is the only possible solution (aside from a different torch).

Brad
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Last edited by glassmaker; 2014-04-01 at 12:29pm.
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  #9  
Old 2014-04-01, 12:27pm
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I am using mapp gas, so I'll try that
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  #10  
Old 2014-04-01, 9:45pm
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You also could be holding your bead too close to the torch head or be getting down to the bottom of your tank.
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  #11  
Old 2014-04-02, 3:00am
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Soaking in cola or cleaner won't remove the red, but it can remove the greyish sheen you also have in some places. Red = so much reduction that it won't go.
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  #12  
Old 2014-04-03, 11:12am
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Get some Whink Rust Remover. I keep some around for Dk Turquoise, Sky Blue and copper green when I don't want the antique look. It will work right away.
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  #13  
Old 2014-04-04, 5:42am
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If it's the grey on the blue only I don't even try to avoid that when I'm on the HH. I just make my bead... Then I dip it in etching solution for less than a min usually and it will remove it (time varies based on type, cream vs liquid, and strength.age). It takes no time at all and it is not long enough to etch the glass. Even my whites stay shiny.

The red is from burning the blue basically or over working it. You might be able to etch off the top layer and get your blueback. But a lot of times the red goes deeper than an etch would remove. Makes a neat effect if that's what you are going for... But it's just a pain otherwise. Most of the light blues/teals will do this to you. Some more than others. Oh and petroleum, grass and mosaic green pastel colors as well. Even some of the pastel greys can go livery or coppery. Oh and the lighter/greyer purples can do this, and or go brown.

Oh and this livery stuff can fume colors near them if you are not careful as well. But again a light etch should clear that up too
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Last edited by jaci; 2014-04-04 at 5:46am.
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