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  #1  
Old 2009-03-29, 2:49pm
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Default "Piping Tanked Propane Into Studio" *FREE* Tut

"PIPING TANKED PROPANE INTO YOUR STUDIO" TUTORIAL by DeAnne Buchanan/The Glass Zone

(All material contained within this Tutorial is protected by Copyright, "The Glass Zone" DeAnne Buchanan, 2009; all rights reserved.)

BE SURE TO TEST ALL CONNECTIONS FOR LEAKS (using the "soapy water/bubbles" method) once assembled and installed. Tighten as needed.
SAFETY FIRST!!!



I've completed the final "Piping Tanked Propane Into Studio" Tutorial of sorts, along with photos of all component parts and part numbers (located just above bar codes on packages) from Home Depot which should be available Nationwide*. To assist your understanding, I've included some close ups and a few views of the final assembly. (*Some items cannot be found online, but are available in stores.)

This Tutorial is designed as a guide, and all safety precautions and individual local City, State and National requirements should be reviewed and followed. Please inquire at your local City Planning Department and/or local Fire Department to see if this Tutorial complies with the particularly Safety Requirements in your area before beginning.

NOTE: Please review the suggested layout as it pertains to your studio space, particularly as to the location of both the Propane Tank and the wall hole that the pipe will enter the studio, etc. Additional modifications in pipe lengths may be necessary. It may also work to your best circumstance to have a simple "L" design as opposed to the "Z". I suggest you draw out your basic studio layout, take general measurements to determine pipe lengths necessary (wall depth, for example, as well as the distance from the exterior pipe's location where it exits the wall to the propane tank), and think this through until you are comfortable with the basic concept before purchasing your parts.

FURTHER, I will be using hose clamps to tie in the T-Grade hosing on both ends of this assembly at the barbs – one that leads to an inline flashback and onto the torch (interior); the other that leads to a flashback/quick disconnect/regulator and on to the Propane Tank (exterior). Here we go!

WHAT YOU'LL NEED:

1. Gas Grade ½” Black Pipe (measure depth of wall and add 1" each side) threaded at both ends:



NOTE: I am not providing a part number for this item as it will vary depending on the depth of your studio wall. Suffice it to say that this is standard “Gas Grade 1/2" BLACK Pipe”, and you will want to allow approx. 2” more in the length than the actual depth of the wall. For example, if your wall depth (from inside finished wall to outside finished wall) is 6”, this pipe should be purchased in an 8” length.

In addition, if you are making the “L” or “Z” designs, additional pipe in appropriate lengths will need to be purchased and added using the Elbow listed in #5 below.

2. (Brass/Red Handle) Gas Grade Ball Type Shut Off Valve, ½” female fittings on both ends (Part # 110-523HC):



3. (Brass) Male Pipe to FIP Hex Bushing ½” x Ό” (“reducer” from 1/2" to 1/4") (Part # 17000827):



4. (Brass) Hose Barb Adapter Ό” Barb x Ό” MIP (Part # 17000192):



5. (Brass) Cast FIP to FIP Elbow ½” (Part #17000805)



6. Misc. supplies - Gas Grade "tape" for connections, several ½” hose clamps, Galvanized Steel ½” IPS 2-hole pipe strap (Sold in packs of 10):




OK - Let's do a run-through of how this all works. REMEMBER to use the proper Gas Grade Tape to insure a nice, tight fit on all connections when you do the final assembly.
BE SURE TO TEST ALL CONNECTIONS FOR LEAKS (using the "soapy water/bubbles" method) once assembled and installed. Tighten as needed.
SAFETY FIRST!!!


First, Parts 4 and 3 above - fit together:


Add Part 2 – Shut Off, and attach to Black Pipe:



(Same assembly on the other end of pipe)



If making the "L" or "Z", add the elbows and additional pipes as needed. At the "end of the line" so to speak, add the second (exterior) Shut off with necessary couplings and barb end to attach your hose to.

A view of the “Z” modification to further anchor the pipe to prevent rotation (See Dale's helpful Diagram in Post #60 of this thread: http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...t=96149&page=2). As shown here - for picture purposes only - this assembly is turned sideways. In reality, the short pipe portion with the barb seen on the left would run through the wall into your studio and the longer portion seen standing up would actually be running horizontally against the wall toward your Propane Tank:



Hope this helps some of you out!

~DeAnne in CA

MARCH 2010 ADDENDUM:

I RECENTLY HAD SOMEONE PM FOR ASSISTANCE ON THE CONNECTION OF THE QUICK DISCONNECT/FLASHBACK AT THE PROPANE TANK, SO I'M POSTING MY RESPONSE WHICH CAN BE FOUND BELOW AT POST #24 ALONG WITH PHOTOS TO HELP CLARIFY THAT PORTION OF SETTING UP. ~De
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Last edited by theglasszone; 2010-03-20 at 11:07am.
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  #2  
Old 2009-03-29, 5:25pm
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Thank you. This is just what I need and it is nice to know you can buy it all at home depot.
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Old 2009-03-29, 6:25pm
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Thanks for the tutorial. I will be building a studio soon so it will come in handy. Joan
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Old 2009-08-10, 9:29am
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Default Thank you!

Great tutorial! Thank you for all the great photos and directions.
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Old 2009-08-21, 1:56pm
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Yeah!!! I've been needing something like this for a long time -- thank you!
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Old 2009-08-21, 7:28pm
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That will come in handy when I get the big tank. Thank you.
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Old 2009-09-08, 11:24pm
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Hi De that is a very well thought out hook up for propane. Now when you complete this construction and connect all of this to your propane tank PLEASE PLEASE, check all the connections with soapy water to see if there are any leaks. If there are you will need to take it apart and use Teflon gas tape on the threaded ends to seal it up. Then recheck the connections again with soapy water. Do this also on the propane tank. Just a safety tip, so no one or any ones house goes up in smoke. Thanks for listening.
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  #8  
Old 2009-09-09, 12:30am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragoneyes View Post
Hi De that is a very well thought out hook up for propane. Now when you complete this construction and connect all of this to your propane tank PLEASE PLEASE, check all the connections with soapy water to see if there are any leaks. If there are you will need to take it apart and use Teflon gas tape on the threaded ends to seal it up. Then recheck the connections again with soapy water. Do this also on the propane tank. Just a safety tip, so no one or any ones house goes up in smoke. Thanks for listening.
Hi Dragoneyes! I've had this warning in the beginning and the middle of this tutorial since I first posted it - IN LARGE RED BOLD TYPE - which I hoped would insure that no one could possibly miss it!

De
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Old 2009-09-10, 12:49am
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I have a question....is it ok to set up the piping so that the regulator is inside the studio rather than outside on the tank? I would want to put it just past the inside cutoff valve. I'm using a barbeque tank..they will be putting a locked cage or box over it on the outside...this building is a "historical" structure so we are limited as to what we can do on the outside of the building

Last edited by DPete1104; 2009-09-10 at 1:01am.
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Old 2009-09-10, 7:44am
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DeAnne, just wanted to pop a quick thank you into this thread.

I went with the Z formation and your laundry list of items made my shopping trip much easier.

My total bill came to $43 at Lowe's in case anyone is wanting a ballpark figure.

3 x 12" black pipe
2 x shutoff valves
2 x barbs
2 x elbows
1 pk 10 straps
2 x bushings (1/2 to 1/4 reducers)
1 roll gas grade plumbing tape
1 pk hose clamps

I should note though that for the elbows and reducers I stuck with the black iron fittings- I didn't get the brass. I told the guy in the department that I was piping propane at about 20 pounds of pressure and asked if there was a reason to go with brass instead of the black iron. He said the black iron would be fine and it was quite a bit cheaper. I still got the brass shutoff valves and barbs though...I didn't even look for an alternative to those.

Thanks again.
~~Mary
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Old 2009-09-10, 7:52am
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Hi Denise~

Since I've not done what you're inquiring about, I'm not sure how to answer; I do recall reading, though (I believe in the "Safety" Section) LOTS of information on this very same question. I did a Forum Search in Safety, typing in "regulator inside" in the Search Box and here are the threads that popped up:

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/se...archid=4239950

I'm sure your answer is in there! Alternatively, you could post the question specifically in the Safety Section and I'm sure one or all of the safety guys will help you out!

Good luck!
De
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Old 2009-09-14, 7:59pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPete1104 View Post
I have a question....is it ok to set up the piping so that the regulator is inside the studio rather than outside on the tank? I would want to put it just past the inside cutoff valve. I'm using a barbeque tank..they will be putting a locked cage or box over it on the outside...this building is a "historical" structure so we are limited as to what we can do on the outside of the building
IF it is a secondary regulator........

NFPA code allows one to bring propane into residence at a maximum pressure of 10 PSI.....

So by putting a "fixed pressure" primary regulator set to 10PSI (MAX) at tank and then connecting a adjustable (secondary) regulator to piping to inside you can have a range of 0 to 10 psi in studio....

Other option may be to get "fixed" pressure regulator (for primary at tank) at maybe 2 or 5 PSI and save cost of adjustable regulator and just learn to work with torch at preset supply pressure....

Dale
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Old 2009-09-22, 4:54pm
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Thanks so so much for this!
I'm going from HH to cricket so I really need all this info.

It's maddening switching over and this helps that bit
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Old 2009-09-23, 5:33am
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De, thank you so very much for taking the time to do this. Hubby has put this off for too long. Right now I take the 25ft. hose out on the back porch and hook up the propane each time I torch. I have to put something in front of the back door to keep the critters out and the dogs in.
Now I can hand him the instructions with photos and it just might get done...LOL
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Old 2009-10-05, 6:05pm
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Today after welding store and 3 guys looking like "what the hell?" and looking in all their product books, one chain home store, then another, I finally left to go home and almost cried.

I got as far as the pipe, and this




My father in law is trying to help also, he and seems anyone else I talked to can't find anything after that.
# 3 (Brass) Male Pipe to FIP Hex Bushing
and
#4 (Brass) Hose Barb Adapter Ό” Barb x Ό” MIP
"well I don't know how you're going to go from 1/2" pipe to a 1/4" hose"
ahhhhhhhhhhh
me either I was hoping for some help guys!

I also wonder too, you have barb adaptor at both ends, how does it fit onto the propane tank? And you're cutting the hose at the tank end as well I take it in order to fit onto the barb adaptor?
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Old 2009-10-07, 9:12am
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No crying, darlin'!!!!

Not sure where you live...is there a Home Depot near you?

When I first wrote this tutorial, I went through great efforts to be sure I was using and referring to parts that were available "Nationwide, and beyond" - meaning that there are Home Depot Stores all over the Country (USA) as well as other Countries in the world. I spoke to several of the plumbing department managers and was assured that for inventory control purposes, product numbers were the same here as all across the US and for that reason, I did my best to include all part numbers in describing each piece.

With that said, if you go into your local Home Depot, and take with you some pictures (maybe cut/past into your Word Program, then print) and the specific part numbers I refer to in my first post, you'll be able to find these without a problem. Don't give up!

I admit the Home Depot website isn't as helpful as it could be! I did a quick search for the valve and didn't find the exact one (though I saw them available last week so I know they still carry them) but did find this one - similar and would work equally if you're in a pinch, I believe:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

I also know that they have WAY MORE STUFF in the Plumbing Section of the store than you can "view" on line. Once you get there, armed with your photos, find a sales associate and you should be able to get exactly what you need.

Adaptors are used to reduce from the 1/2" pipe to the 1/4" hose...you then attach a portion of your 1/4" hose to the nipple fitting (with a hose clamp and be sure to test after set up to confirm no leaks); your hose then goes to your quick disconnect which is attached to your Regulator Valve right at the Propane Tank.

Hope this helps!

If anyone can post a better way of describing this, please chime in!!! I figure some of you have some pictures of your own set up that would help as well...

De
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Old 2009-10-07, 11:04am
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Thanks

You know I think I live in the land of stupid, we have a Menards (not sure if that's midwest only?), a Lowes, and Home Depot is in another city, which is where I'm headed today.

I tried another 'ma and pop' store today and got the you cannot do that ma'am, which just frustrated me even more.

Ok so hose is attached to fitting like on the torch, cut/clamp.
to me that makes sense but wanted to be sure since I'm getting any sense I have left knocked out of me by guys in plumbing departments
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Old 2009-10-07, 12:04pm
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Yeah, those plumbing guys (and their "butt crack" advice) can do that to 'ya! (Apologies of course to plumbers who are ALSO glass workers, or those of us glass workers who have plumber loved ones, which are, of course, exempt!)

Good luck! Let me know how it goes...you can always PM me but posting in this thread is, I think, beneficial to everyone!

De
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Old 2009-10-07, 6:09pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragoneyes View Post
If there are you will need to take it apart and use Teflon gas tape on the threaded ends to seal it up. Then recheck the connections again with soapy water. Do this also on the propane tank. Just a safety tip, so no one or any ones house goes up in smoke. Thanks for listening.
It is never a good idea to use Teflon Tape for gas connections IMHO! Pieces of the tape can flake off and clog control valves, regulators or small internal passages. For hooking up even a dryer if the tape gets into the control valve you have a problem, mainly a ruined valve.

The correct method to seal connections and avoid problems in gas pipe is to use a good high quality TFE pipe thread compound with teflon.

You may not have a problem if you use teflon tape, but a ginked up regulator is a lot more expensive then a $4 tube of thread compound.

Last edited by Habman; 2009-10-07 at 6:20pm.
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Old 2009-11-04, 6:25pm
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DE this was great!

Just one little thing, unless you know what you need and where it is in the store DO NOT GO TO HOME DEPOT!

You would be better off at your local ACE, True Value, Coast to Coast Hardware store where there are actually people there who can help you.
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Old 2009-11-08, 1:55pm
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DE this was great! Just one little thing, unless you know what you need and where it is in the store DO NOT GO TO HOME DEPOT! You would be better off at your local ACE, True Value, Coast to Coast Hardware store where there are actually people there who can help you.
Pffttt! I suppose this depends on what city/state you're in - and how well staffed your local HD is - but thanks for the alternative suggestions as I figure if you print this and take it with you, most or all of the products necessary can be found at a variety of hardware stores.

I suppose it helps that I am on a first-name basis with the Manager of my local HD; after the 3-month do-it-yourself remodel of my bathroom (tore it down to the studs - did everything ourselves except the acrylic "liner" of the old steel tub which we couldn't get out of the room without knocking a wall out) along with the complete re-do of my exterior/interior of my 100 year old house, I don't make it 50 ft. into the store without seeing someone who's helped me in the past and always get personal, one-on-one service! Being that I was there pretty much daily for nearly a year to finish my house, well...you get the idea! No on who helps me is ever short on laughs by the time I'm done with 'em, either; I'm told that my "spin" on just how crazy "real life" can be is quite entertaining - and it doesn't take much to get me started!

I figure it doesn't hurt either to be 5'2", blond and (most of the time, not needed) a bit on the "mouthy" side (wink)

Thanks for the positive affirmation!

De
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Old 2009-11-09, 1:50pm
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Just want to give you a big thanks for the tut. The pictures were a great help. I printed all off and went to local Fleet Farm. I couldn't have done it without you. Had my husband drill the hole thru the steel pole building and got it all up and running this past weekend. I just moved up to a cricket from a HH. Thank you!
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Old 2009-11-09, 9:24pm
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You're most welcome, Hobbit! (What a cute name, by the way!) Welcome to LE!

De
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Old 2010-03-20, 11:04am
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ADDENDUM:

I RECENTLY HAD SOMEONE PM FOR ASSISTANCE ON THE CONNECTION OF THE QUICK DISCONNECT/FLASHBACK AT THE PROPANE TANK, SO I'M POSTING MY RESPONSE - ALONG WITH PHOTOS - TO HELP CLARIFY. I WILL ALSO MAKE A NOTE IN THE ORIGINAL POST #1 INDICATING THIS INFORMATION IS DOWN HERE! ~De

Yes, you are right - a "flexible connection" from the hard pipe to the Flashback/Quick Disconnect is required. I live in So. Cal. and weather permits that I don't have terrible harsh conditions so I am able to use a piece of the T-Grade Hose to make this connection.

Since my set up is next to my garage, and because I bought a torch that has "barbed" ends for connection from the wall inlet of the propane, I cut one threaded end off the RED (propane designated) hose, and then cut an appropriate length piece of this cut end so that this hose section runs from the inlet nipple with the inside shut-off valve (attached with a hose clamp, nice and tight, and "bubble soap/water tested") to the torch.

NOTE: BEFORE CUTTING, BE SURE TO CHECK YOU HAVE THE CORRECT THREADED END (THE ONE THAT WILL ATTACH TO THE FLASHBACK) THAT WILL STAY STILL ATTACHED TO THE HOSE!

Because I bought a 25' length of both hoses, I am able to use the remaining piece (my "run" from the propane inlet to the torch is about 8') cutting a length of hose that attaches to the outside portion of the pipe (also attaching with a hose clamp and similarly tested when complete) and using the STILL ATTACHED THREADED END to connect to the flashback.

Here's pictures of what I mean. Please remember to use appropriate GAS GRADE TAPE at all connections to insure a snug fit without leaks. DON'T FORGET TO DO THE "SOAP AND WATER" TEST AFTER ASSEMBLY AND TIGHTEN AS NEEDED:

The Whole Propane Regulator/Flashback/Quick Disconnect set up as it will go together:



It's probably easiest to use this method for attaching everything together...

Step 1: Attach Regulator to BBQ Propane Tank. (No picture shown)

Step 2: Attach Quick Disconnect to threaded end of Propane Regulator:



Step 3: Attach Flashback to Quick Disconnect (snaps in and out; colored collar slides in the direction of the Regulator to "release"):



Step 4: Connect THREADED END of hose to Flashback:



I purchased a brand-new, clean BBQ Propane Tank from Home Depot and have it filled at my local gas station that (luckily!) also carries Propane. If possible, that is what I recommend to insure you start with and continue to have clean propane at all times.

Hope this helps you out!

De
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Old 2010-03-20, 6:25pm
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I used this exact list and found each part at Home Depot today.
My hint is to say NO when the plumbing guys ask.
They just want to say it cant be done right off the bat.
Make them leave you alone to think.

Before you go, measure, draw and visualize what you need.
I took the parts out of the wrapper and put it together right there.
They were totally understanding when I brought my odd contraption
up to the register with all the baggies in a bucket LOL

The only thing I asked for help with was the gas grade teflon tape
and clamps. Both of which were not with the plumbing parts.
Take the pics and the parts numbers and search the
little examples until you get an EXACT parts match.

On my way there, and after asking the "what about that barbed end to the propane tank?"
question here, It occurred to me (duh!) that I would just be cutting off
enough of my hose (with the fitting on it) to make it to the tank.
The remaining hose would go from my inside shut off valve with it's barbed
connection to the barbed connection on my minor.

Whew! That was real brain work for me
Thank you ever so much for making this so clear.
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Nortel Minor, Tank O2 and Propane, using COE 104

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Last edited by annieb43; 2010-03-20 at 6:33pm.
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  #26  
Old 2010-03-21, 12:35am
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theglasszone theglasszone is offline
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Annie~

Thanks so much for your post and for letting us know how 'ya did and giving us the benefit of your findings and experience following this tutorial. I'm glad it worked out for you and that you were able to find everything, stayed on track, and now will be torching safely with the Propane outside!

Take care and happy flaming!

De
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Old 2010-03-21, 11:08am
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Lisi Lisi is offline
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Thank you SO much, De! I have been needing to do this for a while with my studio. I have another studio at my mother's house, the gas tank hose is just threaded through a hole in the screen of a cracked open window. At my house, a different story. I won't embarrass myself by telling you how I get propane into my spare bedroom studio!

Not that it's dangerous, it's not, but very awkward and one of the reasons I hurt my back so bad. (okay, leaning FAR out the window to turn tank on and off....)
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Old 2010-03-22, 12:02pm
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My thanks is long overdue. I followed your instructions to the tee. Brought pics and everything to the Fleet Farm and also to show my husband. Could not have done all this without you. THANK YOU!
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Old 2010-03-22, 5:59pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glasshobbit View Post
My thanks is long overdue. I followed your instructions to the tee. Brought pics and everything to the Fleet Farm and also to show my husband. Could not have done all this without you. THANK YOU!
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Old 2010-04-19, 9:40am
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Hi De,
Edited to remove my question. I called my local Fire Marshal's office, and he directed me to the building inspector's office, who directed me to the inspection supervisor, who informed me that as long as I have a plastic or metal sleeve in the wall, I can run the T-grade tubing through the sleeve in the wall.
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