yes you can, it's tricky though so you may want to practice on throwaway beads before trying with a good bead. my way is like Amy's with a few variations
i just leave the cooled bead on the mandrel and next session stick it in the cold kiln and ramp up extra slowly (about 200F/hr) to my garaging temp. I brace the bead just inside the door so most of the mandrel is sticking out (that way it stays cool and i don't have to worry about burning my hand when i touch it). for small beads a couple hours in the kiln at garage temp (940F for me) will heat them through to the core, for larger beads i may leave them for 3-4 hours to reheat, just working on other beads in the meantime.
then i take the bead and check the heat level with the under the table test - if it's glowing orange then i know it's hot enough if not, it goes back in the kiln for longer. once it's hot, then i start waving it slowly in and out of the flame FAR out from the torch head (near the very end/back of your flame) and slowly roll the bead moving in and out of the tip of the flame building up the heat from the outside layer in and inching my way back down to my normal working area as the heat builds within the bead. you need to be pretty patient during the reheat to avoid cracking - or an explosion.
Once the bead is reheated then just work as usual. i find sometimes really thin raised stringer might pop off but that's usually repairable. i've reheated and reworked encased floral and sculpted beads beads up to 3" - altho i really gotta love that bead to want to save it cuz that size takes forever to reheat.