Laying thin, straight lines?

KarenBeth · #1 2010-04-13, 7:02pm

Can anyone give some tips on how to lay super thin stringer really straight? Every time I do, it separates in the middle and then balls up. I've seen some really cool designs with thin, straight lines and there just has to be a secret that I'm just not getting. Any help would be greatly appreciated

debkauz · #2 2010-04-13, 7:18pm

Heat the area on the bead, take it out of the flame and lay the stringer on.

Lisi · #3 2010-04-13, 7:32pm

If you have never seen Corina's stringer control DVD, you really should get it.

Carolyn M · #4 2010-04-13, 8:12pm

You never put super thin stringer in or even really close to the flame.

KarenBeth · #5 2010-04-13, 8:14pm

Yep, I have it. I mean the super skinny stringer. I've tried that, Deb. Problem is the stringer wants to melt up before I get it laid or after its laid, it balls up on the surface and separates. Let me see if I can get a picture of what I'm talking about ...

forgive me, I'm not sure who the artist is, I think I pulled these off of flickr...

See how the stringer is really skinny AND straight? I can think of some really retro designs by doing this, but, *sigh*... I can't get it right! grrrrr...

KarenBeth · #6 2010-04-13, 8:20pm

Carolyn, where near the flame do u put it? I've been trying really high up, where I don't see any more blue flame, so, just above it. Beside it, it seems to just burn up faster. I wish there was a video somewhere to watch someone lay it on. Corina's stringer video doesn't cover the thin stringer like I'm talking about, that I recall.

FishBulb · #7 2010-04-13, 8:28pm

I just head the bead good and hot, lay the super thin stringer on, and press it with a marver it right away. Gently heat and marver, heat and marver, until it's all melted in.

The stringer will want to ball up on the bead until all parts of it are touching the bead so the marvering helps to press it in until it won't ball up anymore.

Also, sometimes the stringer will go on the bead then there will be a "tail" of stringer left over where the stringer is too long; it'll be sticking up out of the bead. Do a few presses with the marver then snap the stringer off and gently heat and marver the remaining bit.

Flonche · #8 2010-04-13, 8:47pm

Those are Lorna "Pixiewillow" beads (her web addy is on the pic)

KarenBeth · #9 2010-04-14, 5:31am

Thanks Fishbulb!

Flonche, you can see that??? LOL! I saw that after I posted but I still couldn't make it out.

chrissij · #10 2010-04-14, 5:33am

You have to have a perfectly even/smooth base. If you press, and you see those chill marks, those chill marks must be gone, or those little ripples will break your fine, hair thin, stringer.

GinnyHampton · #11 2010-04-14, 5:45am

Also, your stringer is balling up because it's not connected to the bead . . . you always want to feel like you're "pushing" the stringer onto your bead. If you feel like your stringer is just sort of floating out there with no tension against the bead, it'll ball up.

I always work way over to the side of the flame for stringer detail. It's a comfortable arm position for me, so I just move side to side instead of up and down in the flame.

Once you get your stringer on your bead, you can always fine-tune your lines with a razor tool to straighten them before they're melted in too far.

midniteburner · #12 2010-04-14, 5:51am

It helps to encase an opaque color (like white) with a transparent. You have to then intoduce it really gently into a cooler flame so cut back on the oxygen to begin with.

Hope all these tips helps. Just keep trying...

Sara

KarenBeth · #13 2010-04-14, 6:11am

Chriss - Thanks, I'll be better sure that there are no ripples.

Ginny - Sometimes, that is the problem, with the super thin stringer, lots of times, it melts up before I get the chance to push the stringer onto the bead. BTW, I've always loved your beads, ever since I saw you on HGTV.

Sara - I'm trying not to encase my colors. I know that works, but I've seen beads with the super fine lines (like above) and they aren't encased.

Flonche · #14 2010-04-14, 6:50am

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarenBeth

Thanks Fishbulb!

Flonche, you can see that??? LOL! I saw that after I posted but I still couldn't make it out.

More exactly, I recognized her style and THEN saw the website address

playswithfire104 · #15 2010-04-14, 9:41am

Quote:

Originally Posted by GinnyHampton

Also, your stringer is balling up because it's not connected to the bead . . . you always want to feel like you're "pushing" the stringer onto your bead. If you feel like your stringer is just sort of floating out there with no tension against the bead, it'll ball up.

I always work way over to the side of the flame for stringer detail. It's a comfortable arm position for me, so I just move side to side instead of up and down in the flame.

Once you get your stringer on your bead, you can always fine-tune your lines with a razor tool to straighten them before they're melted in too far.

That is the issue I have my stringer balling up. I don't think my torch came with a sweet spot.

KarenBeth · #16 2010-04-14, 10:33am

Mine neither... its dysfunctional, its a sour spot instead.

Flamin' Francesca · #17 2010-04-14, 11:21am

If it isn't perfectly straight, you can always pull a thin stringer of the background color if it's solid and lay that next to the stringer that isn't perfectly straight. I learned this trick from Caitlin Hyde, and can really save some aggravation.

nmsaddlebum · #18 2010-04-16, 7:47am

Wow, there are some awesome tips here. You all are so wonderful to share so much information so freely. A sincere thank you.

Kate

Otter's Flame · #19 2010-04-16, 12:31pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarenBeth

..........
Ginny - Sometimes, that is the problem, with the super thin stringer, lots of times, it melts up before I get the chance to push the stringer onto the bead. ........

If it melts up, you are to close to your flame..... period. You are subjecting your stringer to more heat than it can tolerate. I know it is hard and I swore for the longest time my torch just put off way too much radiant heat and it couldn't be done.

Slow down, don't jump right in there and try and get the stringer on, keep searching for that sweet spot... it really is there... and it is on the side, next to your flame... not higher up in it.

Adjust your torch.... this is something I was not doing for the longest time. I was so stressed about getting the stringer on that I would not take time to adjust my flame down much smaller and cooler. That ended up helping a lot.

Also like Ginny said, your stringer is not connected and that is why it is balling up when you go to heat it. So start with a hot base bead, a cooler flame, work outside of your flame and push your stringer onto your bead so it is connected. I know you have practiced a lot... but keep practicing these tips people have given you here.... and then keep practicing some more. With the tips people have given you here, you have enough info to be successful. GOOD LUCK!!!!!

Otter

Carolyn M · #20 2010-04-16, 12:35pm

Super fine stringer doesn't go in the flame at all, I work it behind the flame.

You should see Anastasia work with super fine stringer! Hers is so fine she can tie it in a knot without it breaking.

KarenBeth · #21 2010-04-16, 2:19pm

Yes, Anastasia is another one! How she does that is beyond me.

Thanks Otter!

I've been practicing. I'll post a picture as soon as I can accomplish something worth showing.

TinaJ · #22 2010-04-16, 9:41pm

I know it's already been said above but two things that really help me with stringer control is to:
1 - Turn the flame down. Really down. It's just a bit longer than a pencil point. I don't adjust both oxygen and propane, just the propane. Do a bit of stringer work and then up the propane and heat the whole bead. Turn the propane down and do another line or two.
2 - Move the bead and not the stringer when applying it. If you move the stringer you will be inclined to move it into the flame and that will make it ball up or melt away.

Use your knife tip to tap the ends down if you need to.

Practice using the same color as your base bead and then if you don't like it you can melt it in and start over or do something else with the bead.

Practice! And good luck.
Tina

ElementalsDesign · #23 2010-04-16, 11:02pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by TinaJ

I know it's already been said above but two things that really help me with stringer control is to:
1 - Turn the flame down. Really down. It's just a bit longer than a pencil point. I don't adjust both oxygen and propane, just the propane. Do a bit of stringer work and then up the propane and heat the whole bead. Turn the propane down and do another line or two.
2 - Move the bead and not the stringer when applying it. If you move the stringer you will be inclined to move it into the flame and that will make it ball up or melt away.

Use your knife tip to tap the ends down if you need to.

Practice using the same color as your base bead and then if you don't like it you can melt it in and start over or do something else with the bead.
Practice! And good luck.
Tina

Newbie lurking here, Tina and.. WOW.. sometimes it the little things you never think of, eh? What a great idea!

Thanks to all who have added to the tips here... I love this forum!!!

Rachel Kat

lonerp · #24 2010-04-18, 12:41am

...another tip to make your stringer appear thinner once it is on the bead, is to melt it in SLOWLY..
If melted in too fast, it won´t be a crisp neat line. If melted in slow enough, you can use intense black without it spreading al over the place.

Another advice is to take a class with Claudia Pagel (Glasting). She is an amazing and wonderful teacher and to just watch her do her stringerwork is a joy

lindag · #25 2010-04-18, 1:02am

Try this: melt and attach a small amount of glass from your rod of stringer color - about an inch and a half down the mandrel from the bead you're making. Pull a very fine stringer from that. Heat the bead where you want the stringer then take it out of the flame and bend the stringer (still attached) over the heat and lay it down in one straight line.

PerfectDeb · #26 2010-04-18, 1:15am

Quote:

Originally Posted by lindag

Try this: melt and attach a small amount of glass from your rod of stringer color - about an inch and a half down the mandrel from the bead you're making. Pull a very fine stringer from that. Heat the bead where you want the stringer then take it out of the flame and bend the stringer (still attached) over the heat and lay it down in one straight line.

now thats an interesting idea

chrissij · #27 2010-04-18, 9:08am

Quote:

Originally Posted by PerfectDeb

now thats an interesting idea

It is!!!

I'm gonna' quit futzing with the camera and photoshop and sit at the torch.

TinaJ · #28 2010-04-19, 5:52am

Another 2 tips:

I use my knife to straighten wobbly lines, just push against the stringer with the knife blade to make the lines straight.

When making vines or scrolls that curve I use the sharp end of a brass poker tool (I got it from Trey Cornette, it's pointed on one end and flat on the other) and use it like a pencil to 'draw' along the curved line of stringer. This will straighten the wobbliness of the line at the same time as making the curve crisper.

Tina