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Old 2006-10-12, 8:08am
Shawn T's Avatar
Shawn T Shawn T is offline
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Default Shawn's Tips and Tricks REVISED With PIC Added

PIC Added In This Time

Post was Too Long once I added in the pic and I corrected Many Spelling errors that were in the first post. Hope this helps some of you to show the Pic that went along with many of the the Tips.



Handpulled Expensive colors:
Take a rod of Moretti clear and make a base bead the shape you want. Then cover it with the handpulled expensive colors. Then you don’t waste the handpulled colors for the core of the bead that nobody will ever see. Use a transparent color to do this, because it is stiffer and will hold it's original shape better.

Cheater Encased Flowers:
The First flowers :
1: Use a transparent base bead, such as T-031(Pale emerald green). Any color pale or light transparent will work, however avoid clear, it has way too much scum and bubbles in it.

2: Next put on the green stringer for vines, (You can make a cane of about 4 different color greens and then encased the cane in transparent green. It is important to encase it in transparent green, as when green is heated too much, it can turn red and spread like crazy.) Make the green scroll work and use the ends of the stringer to make points and more vine looking.

2a: A little more about making the green cane. Take a rod of Pea Green, heat
up about an inch and a half of the rod, Not till it is molten but just
enough so you can swipe it with other colors and it doesn't crack. Then
take a stringer of Petroleum Green P- 218 and swipe it down the one and a
half inch of the Pea Green Rod. Make 4 even swipes around the rod, in a "x"
Then take a Nile Green P- 214 stringer and fill in, make swipes right next to
the Petroleum green swipes. You can also use Grass Green P-216. You will want
the Pea Green Rod covered in at least two other colors of Green.
*Note* You may have to go back in fill in swipe down the rod of the green
colors, so the whole rod is covered. You can also use Full length rods to do
the swipe with. It may be easier to use the stringers, but if stringers get
away from you use full rods, it will not matter. Next you will need to have a
Transparent Green, Any color Transparent Green will work. I use T-022 Medium
Grass Green. Swipe the Trans Green from the end of the Now colored Pea Green
rod down to the end of the swipes. Do this till you have covered all the
Pastel swipes you have made. Then cover the open end of the Pea Green rod
with the transparent and stick it to the end. It is easy to do this, if you
get a blob of glass heated up on the Trans Green rod, smash it flat on your
marver, and stick it to the end. Now the fun part. Heat up the cane you have
just made. Wait till it is molten and droopy take it out of the flame count
to 7 and begin to pull it out. You want the stringer to be pretty thin. This
is make a LONG stringer, so you will have enough for many flowers!

2b: Turn down your flame, and scroll on the green cane, it really
doesn't matter how or what it looks like. Leave it raised, until you have
many scrolls on the bead. Then as you melt it in, Take the end of your green
cane, and pull the scroll work out into points all over the place, push and
pull that green stringer on the bead, until it look like vines. Melt completely in and if needed now would be the time to reshape the bead. If you turn down the heat when you add the cane you will not distort the shape. Do not worry if it doesn't look exact, as you will find when the bead is done, that the "vines" will not stand out a whole lot. Using the colors in the cane as I have and adding the transparent color over the cane, on top of the transparent base bead, will give the vines a great look when it is done. Trust me on this one!

3. Keep your torch turned down for this part also. Next I added an opaque
color in sets of 4 dots all around the bead. In the case of the first flowers
pic, I used Periwinkle. Make them a little further apart then you think you
will want them to be. I make different sizes. l Make a large set first, then
smaller sets on each side of it. You can put your dots anywhere, don't be
concerned about where the vines are. Then I added Transparent Colbalt right
on top of the raised Periwinkle dots. you do not have to add another color on
top, and can make the first set of dots any color you wish.
*Note* I would not try colors like Dark Ivory, or Opal Yellow, as they run
too fast and will not give you sharp petals.
Melt in each flower one at a time, *Note* Good hint here, is to start with
the smallest flowers first, so they don't melt in while doing another larger
set of dots, flowers. Point the tip of your flame right into the center of
the flower.

If anybody is having a hard time with the placement of the 4-5 petals
another tip is to put a little dot the same color as the base bead down
first, then this will give you a guide as where to add the flower petals
around the small dot. When you melt the petals in the dot will disappear, as
it is the same color as your base bead.

4. I then poked the center of each flower, (i use a tungsten pick, you can
use a straight rake, a mandrel without bead release on it of course, anything
you can find that you can make a straight poke with) one at a time. When
they are all poked, I turn the torch back up and melted the poke in flat.
This brings the flower petals down towards the center. Tada that's it! I know
it may sound a little confusing at first, as I tried to give you as much
information as I could think of. Along with alternatives, so if you didn't
have what I used, you could find something else that would work.

You can if you wish poke with a stringer, or cane to get the stamen in the
center. Or you could NOT melt the center in back flush with the bead, and
instead put a small dot of clear, giving you a bubble in the center, like the
first pic I posted.
These beads were not encase, but give the "look" of encased flowers.
You are welcome to encase them after the above mentioned steps. I don't find
it necessary.
I hope this helps you out. If you have any further questions you can drop me
a e-mail or PM any time and I will be glad to help. Please let me know how
they turn out.

I tried many different flowers on and off in the last 4 years, and finally
found ones that seem to work every time. With quick and easy steps.

BTW orange and yellow do not turn out well neither do some of the reds. Then tend to not show up well on a transparent base. Electric Yellow does well, and the coral color does. But I love the periwinkle with colbalt over it. If you place the colbalt dots on top of the periwinkle towards the center of the 4 dots the center of your flowers will turn out to have the great darker color.




Shawn Tip on Colors:
Lt. transparent Pink, rolled in Fuchsia Frit then silver, thin layers of clear and encase in the transparent pink. It also work beautifully if you change it to Lt. trans. Blue, and blue frit.

Shawn’s organics:
The organic tabs I make a lot of, very easy. Dark transparent color, wrapped in silver and thin layers of Dr. Ivory and a little bit on Intense black. Melt in and flatten.



how to get even dots:
Heat the tip of the stringer into a point. Then when you heat the spot on the bead you can barely touch the stringer to the bead to get a tiny dot straight on the other side of the first dot, by looking the mandrel straight in the eye. You are placing a tiny dot, so when you look at the dot straight on if you have your dot too high or too low you can cover up the tiny dot with the bigger size dot. Basically a marker to show you where the other side of the bead is.


How to get the Raku to POP
It work well on reactive colors. I have used Dr. Ivory, Copper green, reg. and red. Opal yellow I love it on. But first time I think you should start off with back.
Why Black you ask? Because You will be able to see all the colors and the reaction very quickly as the bead cools.

Use the largest size frit you have. I find the best reactions with the #2 size and the Chunks I pull into stringers. If anybody needs instructions on how to pull chunks into stringers let me know I have it marked in my favorites and will post the link.

Make a round bead out of the black, Moretti Vetrofond doesn't matter.
Heat up the bead and roll it in the #2 size frit. Now you have to put a lot of heat back into the bead. Melt the frit in and then heat it some more, heat it up and let the frit start to swirl, spinning your mandrel so you don't loose the round shape. Then keep swirling while you take it out of the flame, and touch the bead to something brass. (I do not have a brass stump shaper so I use the side of one of my Zoozii or Catt's presses) Flat the bead on both sides. Let the bead cool and look at the colors if you like the colors and they "came out to play with you" Then bring it back into the back edge of the flame to get rid of the chill marks. If you got mostly orange and tan, then reheat the bead, and try again. When I say the bead needs to be really hot I am saying that it need to be so hot and molten that it may fall off the mandrel if you don't spin it fast enough, The frit will look almost clear with a darker center.

Most of the ones I did, I first flattened with my BBQ mashers and then touched it to the brass very quickly. I have never had to use the ice water some people mentioned to get the colors to work. The colors will come ut by the rapid heating and cooling. You can do it over and over again till you get the look you want.

I have not had that great of luck with the fine frit the #00, but I did get some colors not the whole bead to turn colors.

When using the stringer. I pulled thin stringer out of the chunks. Made a base bead out of black. then I made beads with dots, some with scroll work, some with lines Etc. I turned down my propane, way down when applying the stringer. It like the oxygen and the cooler flame. Then melted in the stringer, and flattened with my BBQ masher, and touched to the brass. Put the bead in the back of the flame and flashed the chill marks off.

*Note* once the colors come out, do not worry about putting your bead back in the flame, the deep colors will not go away. I have never lost the purples or blues and pinks by reheating the bead.
Please excuse the bead poop these pic where taken when RAKU had first come out and was only days old I was taken pic as soon as they came out of the kiln as people were so eager to know to work RAKU and learn as quickly as they could how to work it. There wasn't a lot of info out on how to work the new frit.


Below is on Gaffer clear


Copper and Coppered Stringer:
The coppered stringer reacts with any of the Ivory glass, the coral glasses and any other that contains suffer. The green color will change depending on how you use the stringer. It goes through the green to blues, reds, oranges, purples etc. totally dependent on how the glass is heated. in all of the colors however there will always be a black line around them when put on sulfer glass. the coppered stringer sometimes changes colors in one area more than another so one can get bands of the color change as well. the green is the coolest worked color- more heat and it goes to blues, more heat and it goes to purple tones, after that is red, if it starts going too orange you are risking losing the color effect completely. There is also ALOT of copper in the copper stringer. much more than there usually is in the average glass. consider all the results one can get from the different copper glasses ( the copper green, copper blue and copper red) the color difference on most of those is due to the different heat they have been subjected to. I also assume that the more one heats the copper stringer the more of the copper comes to the surface. Definately the best reds are from HUGE amounts of copper at intense heats.
The leaf copper one can burnish on to a bead or vessel- flash it a bit and immediately encase- this will cause a whole galaxy of ultra tiny bubbles in a fine layer that basically stays put just in the spots where the copper was- I often use the copper foil between paper to punch out a design to do that with and the bubbles make the picture- fast and intense looking. works well with the sun, moon, flower and star punches in the scrap booking area as well as the wild patterned scissors that are available (scallops etc.) if the copper is mixed in rather than flashed it has color reactions. Very versatile stuff. Aluminum leaf also has intense results but it tends to go to the surface sometimes as a metallic and the copper never does. ( at least not on me)

More Color Tips (Copper Green):
If you put dots of clear on CG and melt them in the dot will turn yellow. Of course you can do it with swirls scroll work lines what ever. But it will turn a beautiful yellow color when melted flush into the bead. If you use the Red Copper Green the dots will turn PINK!
Copper Green with clear melted in:


Bracelet made with a base of Red Copper Green with dots and scroll work of clear melted in
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Last edited by Shawn T; 2006-10-12 at 12:29pm.
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Old 2006-10-12, 8:11am
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Shawn T Shawn T is offline
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Color Tips (Mosaic Green):
There is no intense black in the bead. Just done on the end of the mandrel so only one hole, and a base bead of Dark Ivory and tiny dots of MG. It will spread like crazy and web by heating with lots of heat.
If you use a lot of it, it will overpower the bead, so make tiny dots and watch it do the magic.


Random Color Tip:
opal yellow, silver foil and Rubino and copper green


Wonky Beads at a Show:
I also put out a bowl of beads, that didn't quiet make the cut into the jewelry. I give them away to the kids, as I have so many of them. But what I find is if I can give them to the kids, they look and look trying to decide which one they want. Only one per child, and no you can't take one for your invisible friend or brother who is not there. So as the kids are happy as can be getting a free, bead their parents will be looking longer, and therefore I have more time to try and sell them something. Plus some of them want to buy something as I am usually the only one giving away anything for free.


Stringer and surface decoration:
When putting surface decoration on a bead with stringer, Sometimes your first dots or stringer scroll work will melt in, right? To avoid this, after you make your base bead, tap your bead on my marver to make sure it tinks (not tink as in, bead cracking) knowing it is cool enough to add your design on top without melting it in. You will melt in the first part of your design because when your stringer touches the hot bead, it starts to melt too quickly.


Bubbleless Transparent Glass:
You know how your transparent glass bubbles very easily? Well most of us know it will help it you pull off the first bit of each rod, where it has scratches in the glass form where they cut it. But if you do that then let it cool, and heat the transparent glass from the side of the flame, slowly, you will get a clean transparent color with little or no bubbles.


Pulling Stringers:
Pulling stringer, Most people try and pull from side to side (width). Use gravity, and when you first start to pull do it lengthwise, flipping it to keep the bigger blob at the top letting gravity to help you to get a nice long even pull.

Twist count to 5 and then twist and pull, in opposite directions.


Moons:
Was talking to someone today about making landscape beads. So thought of this tip. To make a crescent moon. (if your background bead color is blue) make a white dot with your stringer, melt it flush with the bead, then take the same blue as your background color and make a smaller dot on the white dot, but off center. Melt in flush, and what you are left with is a wonderful crescent moon on your bead. Alternate the color on top of the white to match your base bead color.

Full moon Sorry no pic of crescent.


Color Tip (Pale Lavender):
Transparent base bead of Pale Lavender (very small)
rolled in Ruby Gold and melted in (twice)
rolled in silver and burnished well
added threads of the pale lavender without melting in the silver
melt in and shape
encase in the pale Lavender


Easy frit.
Take a beer mug, or a similar heavy glass, fill it up with ice water, put a coffee filter in it so the bottom of the filer is touching the water. Secure the filter with a rubber band around the glass. Heat up your rod, nice big molten glob and dunk in the water. Then all you have to do is take out the coffee filter, and let the frit dry. Works like a charm.

Pull the coffee filter so that some of it is around the outside of the beer mug, then secure the coffee filter with a rubber band to the outside of the glass, so it doesn't fall to the bottom of the beer mug.
Next light your torch, then slowly heat up your glass rod, with your torch, get a nice big molten glob of glass on the end of your rod, and dunk the rod in the coffee filter, to where it hits the ice cold water.






Whimsical Eyes:
Make your white dot, always make the one that is furthest away from your hand first, as you will be able to judge the one that is closest better to get it the same size. Once you have your 2 white dots, smash them flat. Then add a transparent color on top, maybe light topaz if you want to keep with the color scheme, or some with blue and green eyes would be cute. Melt the transparent in a little but not too much you want it to still be raised. then add your black pupils on top. Add the black very last, right before you put it in the kiln, and melt it down flush to the transparent color.


Bead Features:
Draw out a bunch of eyes with the eyeballs going in different directions. They can show so much expression on your beads. Looking up- looking down crossed eye. , etc., then when you are making the bead you have an idea of which way the eyes should go with the sculpture work as the eyes will match the bead. Also we made some big beads, as you said, but put as many different noses on them as would fit. then we made one for lips, and mouths, some with teeth, some with tongues etc. When I make my sculpture beads, I get out these beads, so I can decided which nose, mouth fits the critter I am making. Sometimes it is hard to decide in the middle. Most of the time I draw mine out on paper first. But sometimes it just happens when I am going for something else, and it doesn't work then I turn it into a critter.


Tip for pulling filigrana into stringer:
I have a bunch of filigrana, and had no idea how to pull it into stringer. If you want to make letters or write on your beads it is wonderful to pull out black or any color into a thin stringer and then when you melt it in the clear melts in completely leaving you with a thin black line.
So how do you pull the dang rod out without messing up the thin color inside the clear?
Heat the rod up and down in the flame, do not let it melt onto itself. Till the rod is hot about an inch and a half take your tweezers and pull the end of the rod into a stringer.
it was a duhh moment for me. You may have already know this but I kept trying to melt it onto itself and pull it out, or attach two rods to it together and pull it out, neither of which works.
Now I have a use for all the wonderful filigrana I have.

More on Organics:
Materials needed:
Dark Ivory
Silver Foil- Yes, leaf could be used
Transparent Aqua, OR, Teal, Emerald green, Grass green
Intense Black Stringer
Marver or BBQ Mashers

1. Make a base bead out of Dark Ivory. Since this bead seems to look better in a tabby shape make sure you have enough base bead of the ivory in order to flatten in the end. An egg shape to start with will end up looking better than a donut shape.

2. Roll base bead of dark Ivory with the silver foil, and burnish the silver in well. This can be achieved by running the silver on your marver to make sure it is stuck well to the bead. Do Not melt in the silver.

3. Now pick up your color of transparent glass, in the pic I showed I used dark Aqua stringer and the other bead is done with Dark Grass Green stringer. Make swipes with your stringer right on top of the base bead with the silver still on the bead. The amount of color depends on you. But I do suggest that you add more then you think you need.

4. Step four is optional try it with and without. Thread on intense black stringer. To thread on stringer, you hold the bead, (still with the silver on and the transparent glass) behind the flame, your black stringer in the tip of the flame till it is molten, not touch the bead to the stringer and twirl the mandrel, The intense black stringer will go onto the bead in little threads.

5. Melt all in. You may want to use your marver to spread the transparent glass, as it will melt slower then the other colors and so it does not all end up in one place. let the bead cool slightly. Heat only one side of the bead and flatten on your marver. Now let that side cool and heat the other side and smash it flat on your marver. Or if you have BBQ masher just flatten it that way.



Same bead different way:

Step 1 is the same

2. Add silvered ivory stringer to the bead, and the transparent stringer, and intense black stringer threaded on the bead. Melt all in at the same time. Flatten the bead as directed above. This will give you a slightly different look, as the silver will not cover the entire bead, and only where you decide to put the SIS.

Variations: Add goldstone stringer, topaz and intense black.

Just add intense black and heat low in the flame,
the black will give you the "webbing effect"

Try on a black base, adding silver and Dark ivory
along with transparent glass.

Start with a transparent glass, add SIS, (intense black if you choose)
Or transparent glass, rolled in silver then add ivory and intense black

From Fay:
Quick directions on Goddess Bead:

1. start by using a transparent...black....it is much easier to do it with
2. make a long bicone
3. flatten out
4. use razor or knife and cut in to crease where thighs would be
5. can add glass for belly
6. shape belly and then poke belly button with pic and V crease
7. butt...add dots to form butt
8. shape and define by cutting between cheeks and around
9. add breasts one at a time...shape...can add nipple dots
10. redefine as needed
Done or you can add a neck and head

*keep flashing bead to keep warm at all times...






Wine Stopper (I forgot who posted this!):
White base
splotches of Trans amber
splotches of clear
Ocelot spots...get a good THIN covering, NOT real thick, let the transparent peek through.
DO NOT REDUCE...gets dark real quick.
LOTS of OXYGEN! Oxygen is the ocelots best friend.
Another really pretty frit for stoppers is the copper blue.
Ivory Base
Silver Foil-DON"T melt it in
small amounts of trans. teal and aqua (if you want it bright, use lots)
rolled in copper blue.


More Wine Stoppers:
Another really easy, neutral color for a stopper.
Ivory Base W/ white swirls and or splotches
rolled in silver foil, burnished well
rolled in Apricot Sorbet Frit.
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Old 2006-10-12, 8:16am
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Shawn- you are a wealth of information- and so generous with it- Thank You!

I read your tips early on, but rereading I just got another idea for something to try- I love idea sparks!
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Old 2006-10-12, 8:22am
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Your More than welcome Jess, Looking back boy do my pic suck. Darn those were taken over 3 years ago.
Good think I have a much better camera and have come real far the last 3-4 years.
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Old 2006-10-12, 9:14am
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Thank you Shawn,
You've generated some dead parts of my brain when I reviewed these
thanks!
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Old 2006-10-12, 9:22am
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This is so inspiring with the pics! Thanks so much, Shawn!
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Old 2006-10-12, 12:31pm
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Shawn T Shawn T is offline
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I am glad the pic are helping sorry it took me so long once I found them to put them back. I figured while I was at it might as well read through and fix some typo's.
Ingore the rest of them please.

Now many I can continue to add some more in here I love to give tips and tricks out.
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Old 2006-10-12, 5:14pm
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Shawn, those tips were great but they are even better now with the pictures. Thanks for taking the time!
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Old 2006-10-12, 5:36pm
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Wow, what wonderful tips for a newby! Characteristics of various colors -- I want to know them, but sometimes I don't want to get there by trial and error. I don't have the money or the time - thanks to you and your easy to follow instructions, I can try these and see how they turn out for me. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
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Old 2006-10-13, 7:20am
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WOW! Just wow! Your so generous with your knowledge! Im forever greatful! Got some great tips!
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Old 2006-10-13, 9:10am
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Just as generous as ever, Shawn!! Some of these ideas may be just what I need to jumpstart myself out of my beadmaking slump! Love ya, honey!
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  #12  
Old 2006-10-16, 5:18am
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Carolyn M Carolyn M is offline
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Thanks so much Shawn. I don't have time to read them all now, but will come back later.
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Old 2006-10-21, 9:41am
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THANK YOU
I now have the fantastic Shawn Tips and Tricks. Great reading for me tonight!!!!

Thank you Shawn!

Wilma
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  #14  
Old 2007-12-12, 2:40pm
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Bumping this up as a holiday gift for new lampworkers! (you so rock Shawn...every time I see your tips I find something "new" )
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new purple cricket @ home! minicc @ playing with fire in rockland! Sue & Nikki fighting over who gets to anneal the wonkies
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Old 2007-12-12, 3:05pm
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I've kept this ever since it was posted on WC. It's wonderful! Thanks Shawn! Paula
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  #16  
Old 2007-12-12, 3:17pm
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Thanks a bunch ......this is so great for newbies like me......I look at so many beads buti am still unsure of what type of glass to use to get different effects.....very helpful...thanks
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  #17  
Old 2007-12-13, 4:34am
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thanks so much for sharing this all. the are beautiful beads.
but please can you tell me what colornumber the mosaic green is? and is it
moretti? i don't know if a can buy it in the Netherlands
thats gives the bead so a pretty reaction on the dark ivory.

greatings Margoke
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  #18  
Old 2007-12-13, 6:59pm
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Thanks for sharing all these tips Shawn! Gave me some good ideas to try out this week. The one about making frit is genius!
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Old 2008-02-21, 1:20pm
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Thanks Shawn. Very helpful and inspiring!
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Old 2008-02-22, 7:15pm
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I'm so glad this got bumped to the top. Great info all compiled into one thread! Thanks Shawn!
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Old 2008-11-21, 10:48am
queenofsheba queenofsheba is offline
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Hello Shawn and nice to meet you, I am new to LE and mostly lurk. Your tutorial was wonderful because it told me exactly how to try to achieve what you pictured. It is a great help! May your generosity return to you 100-fold. Helene
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  #22  
Old 2008-11-21, 11:46am
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Shawn T Shawn T is offline
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Jude I miss you my dear friend and loved the recent pictures of the boys, I owe you and e-mail . Happy Holidays to you and yours!

Your Welcome Donna.

Helene if you have any further questions I am usually around and will be glad to help. These tips were posted a long time ago, but glad when someone bumps it forward as it is always nice to hear it has helped someone nice like you. Wonderful to meet you also.

Shawn
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  #23  
Old 2008-11-21, 12:54pm
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Thank you so much for taking the time to do this for us all. And especially sharing it and the pictures. I'm a visual person.
It helps give me new ideas.
Thank you again for all this wonderful info.
Happy Thanksgiving
Merry Christmas
Janet

Last edited by Janetlee; 2008-11-21 at 12:55pm. Reason: typo
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  #24  
Old 2008-11-21, 4:06pm
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I have had this bookmarked and I can't tell you the times I have gone back over it
It seems I always find something that I had mised the first dozen times!

Thank you Shawn, you are truly a jewel!!!!

{{hugs}}

granny
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  #25  
Old 2008-11-21, 6:58pm
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I printed out most of it and have used it many, many times over the last year or two.

THANK YOU SHAWN!!!!!
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  #26  
Old 2008-11-21, 7:04pm
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I just found my new crush lol Shawn T
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  #27  
Old 2008-11-22, 8:29am
Chau Nguyen T Chau Nguyen T is offline
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Thank you Shawn.
You make me want to do glass again. This time i will not do everything wrong with your well of knowledge.
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  #28  
Old 2008-11-22, 11:55am
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Thank you so much Shawn.. what an absolute wealth of tips... the organic bead tips look brilliant.. guess what Im going to be trying tonight
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  #29  
Old 2008-11-23, 8:29pm
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Shawn T Shawn T is offline
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Janet, Happy Holiday to you also. Glad these tips and tricks could help you some.

Granny, You are one of my very favorite newer lampworkers. Notice how I don't use the other word the one that ends in a "bie". As when does one ever loose that title? You really are a treasure to this art form, and someone I am so proud to call my friend.

Nancy, that really brought a smile to my face cause I have admired you for a while now.

Chau Nguyen T, I do hope you do something in glass again if it brings you joy. If there is anything I can ever help you with along the way, please let me know.

Effemess, Would love to see what you made in organic beads. Organics have been a love of mine for a very long time. finding out new color combos and seeing how glass reacts is really very intriguing to me. Your more than welcome to post in this thread, if you need any further help or run into any problems just let me know.



I really will help any of you who need further help along the way, I am not just saying that. I had someone e-mail me just yesterday asking about pulling chunks of RAKU into stringers and wrote out a step by step on how to achieve this. Yes, I am positive it can be found elsewhere on the web, and maybe even here on LE. I used to have a link saved on my computer on this, but lost it when my hard drive crashed. Plus sending someone to a link just didn't seem right when I was asked. It only took a little bit of time and effort to tell this person how it was done.

My e-mail is SETinGlass@aol.com or you can PM me. Although you will have to excuse the fact that I am not a typist and on occasion misspell a word or two.
Best of luck and Happy Holiday.
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  #30  
Old 2008-11-24, 4:09am
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Art of Hand Art of Hand is offline
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Thank you Shawn for your time and effort! I am an almost 3 year old 'new' lampworker, and since I live far, it is virtually impossible for me to get to advanced classes. Most of what I know, I got from here and other sites, and apply that in my beads.

It is also pple like you that makes me want to share the little that I know. Kinda the pass it forward thing, you know?

Have a wonderful holiday!
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