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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2011-11-09, 7:18pm
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Default Tanked oxygen help

I started using tanked oxygen today, got a M size tank. Holds 150 cubic feet of oxygen. I have the pressure set to 25psi for the torch, when I first started working the tank pressure was 2000+ lbs, I worked for maybe 2 1/2 hours and the tank pressure was 500psi...WTH. I'm only running the center fire of my new GTT sidewinder which is a bobcat. The propane is household pressure, I'm scratching my head on this, figure if I fire up the outer fire I'll go thru the tank in about 10 minutes (sarcasm). What am I doing wrong I tried searching the posts but am having no luck. When I was out at Brent's for the implosion class we were using a minor and the flame was rocking, I thought the bobcat would be at least comparable but it seems much smaller..could this be due to the propane pressure?
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GTT Sidewinder, two M15 oxycon's (center fire), tanked (outer fire), Glasshive kiln.
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  #2  
Old 2011-11-09, 7:23pm
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The biggest problem I guess is that when I go to an oxidizing flame it is tiny....about as wide as a pencil and about 4 inches long. Trying to do the amber purple thing and it just isn't working, very frustrated.
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GTT Sidewinder, two M15 oxycon's (center fire), tanked (outer fire), Glasshive kiln.
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  #3  
Old 2011-11-09, 7:23pm
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Sue in Maine Sue in Maine is offline
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I'm running both my mini cc and my cricket off 2 oxy-cons so I'm limited help but I found this old thread that may have some info in it for you.

http://lampworketc.com/forums/showth...at+oxygen+use*

I'm sure someone else will drop in with good information.

Sue
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  #4  
Old 2011-11-09, 7:26pm
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"M" size tanks are too small...... Go biggest you can physical manhandle....

http://www.tricowelding.com/cylinder...d=Download+PDF

Probably should move up to 280cuft if you can handle it....

IF you are running propane at house pressure you probably can probably reduce oxygen pressure down to 6-8 psi and maybe get a little longer life out of the small tanks...



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Last edited by Dale M.; 2011-11-09 at 7:30pm.
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  #5  
Old 2011-11-09, 7:35pm
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Yea, with back issues and stairs M is about as big as I can go without killing myself. The M is about 4 feet tall.
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GTT Sidewinder, two M15 oxycon's (center fire), tanked (outer fire), Glasshive kiln.
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  #6  
Old 2011-11-09, 8:10pm
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Thanks for the link sue, think it helped a bit. I went and rechecked the tank. Is there suppose to be an o-ring on the part of the regulator that attaches to the tank? There is a little indent that looks like a spot for an o-ring...I'll hafta put on th "idiot" hat if this is the case.
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GTT Sidewinder, two M15 oxycon's (center fire), tanked (outer fire), Glasshive kiln.
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  #7  
Old 2011-11-09, 9:52pm
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I'm with Dale, I'm thinking 25 psi is way too high, I run mine at about 8-10 with a mini CC.

Not sure about the O ring, I can't tell on mine by just looking and I'm too lazy to unhook it this late at night.
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  #8  
Old 2011-11-09, 11:42pm
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Generally oxy tank/regulator connections do not have an o-ring. They rely on a brass metal to metal seal. test your connection with soapy water; sounds like you may have a leak.
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  #9  
Old 2011-11-09, 11:57pm
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When you opened the valve on the tank did you open it all the way and tighten it against the seal? Oxy tank valves need to be fully opened like this or it may leak. Thats my guess. When I run just the Lynx centerfire on my Mirage, I get 5-6 hours on an M. I now get 8-10 hours on my Ks.
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  #10  
Old 2011-11-11, 4:50am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryC View Post
When you opened the valve on the tank did you open it all the way and tighten it against the seal? Oxy tank valves need to be fully opened like this or it may leak. Thats my guess. When I run just the Lynx centerfire on my Mirage, I get 5-6 hours on an M. I now get 8-10 hours on my Ks.
This, open the valve up all the way until it stops opening. Thee is an upper seat that seals to keep the valve from leaking around the packing. I use T tanks, 120 Cu Ft. I get about 10-12 hours from one. A good test for regulator leaks is to make sure the regulator is closed, back the Tee handle all the way out, open the valve on the oxy tank then re-close the valve. If the pressure holds overnight you don't have any leaks at the regulator/tank fitting. Soap bubbles work too.
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  #11  
Old 2011-11-11, 11:08am
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Ok, I think I got it. I lowered the pressure to the 7-ish range and it looks like I'm gonna get probably around 8 hours out of it. I was gonna take it back but I compared the bobcat center fire using a 5 lpm concentrator and it was a no brainer. So now I'm gonna buy a second M tank for a backup. No I can't go to a K, way to big for my old butt to haul around. When my 2 m15's get here next week I'm gonna try them on the center fire and move the tanked to the outer fire since I'm not gonna be using it as often, hopefully the 2 m15's will run comparable to the tanked at 7-psi.
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GTT Sidewinder, two M15 oxycon's (center fire), tanked (outer fire), Glasshive kiln.
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  #12  
Old 2011-11-11, 11:58am
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I might add that you should never "back the T handle all the way out..." or advise that action. I know what you are trying to convey and the theory is correct but...

In most regulators there is a dimpled friction reducing button between the T handle and the spring and sometimes under the spring at the diaphram as well. If you back out the T handle too far this(these) buttons can fall out of place. They are a real PITA to get back in place. Sometimes requiring regulator disassembly.

What should be said is to "back out the T handle until all tension is removed from the spring. This is obvious as there will be a very noticable decline in effort needed to turn the T handle." I can't tell you how many times I've had to fix this problem.

Last edited by cheng076; 2011-11-11 at 12:07pm.
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  #13  
Old 2011-11-11, 12:02pm
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Everything seems to be going great now, thanks for all your help.
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GTT Sidewinder, two M15 oxycon's (center fire), tanked (outer fire), Glasshive kiln.
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  #14  
Old 2011-11-11, 12:07pm
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Actually a more valid test would be to back knobs (t-handle) out and pressurize regulator and then screw handles in to get a low side pressure (torch knob off), and then close off tank leaving whole system under pressure (all the way to torch). If in 12 to 24 hours gauges still read where they did at start of test "everything" is sealed and leak free.....

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  #15  
Old 2011-11-11, 12:47pm
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Hey Dale, thanks for info.....just did that and it's holding strong, fingers crossed.
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