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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2013-07-19, 2:21pm
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Default CIM Poseidon and Thunder Egg

These two colors are basically the same semi-transparent sky blue. However, both turn a muddy greenish blue gray color and won't stay that nice sky blue. Anyone have any tips on working with these colors?

Here's a picture of the variations I got from the same torch session the same rod of glass. They all go in blue but come out in varying shades. The bead to the far left that is a pretty icy blue is how they should look.
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  #2  
Old 2013-07-19, 2:54pm
queenofsheba52 queenofsheba52 is offline
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Donna, what is your torch set-up?

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  #3  
Old 2013-07-19, 2:59pm
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Poseidon does that to me too. I think we need to work it cooler and use an oxidizing flame. I just don't have patience for that, so I just stuck it out of the way.
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Old 2013-07-19, 7:17pm
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Helene I use oxycon and propane
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  #5  
Old 2013-07-19, 10:40pm
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I don't have this color, but perhaps it's like Kryptonite where it changes according to kiln area/time? Like, beads that I do the beginning of a session are more translucent, the others that are in the longest are more opaque.

Now I keep them near the door, I think there was a thread discussing this.
Yes, here http://lampworketc.com/forums/showth...ght=kryptonite
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  #6  
Old 2013-07-20, 6:25am
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It's not quite the same as the opacification problems with Kryptonite. The Poseidon goes grayish sometimes. I'm going to send Kathy at CIM a note and ask for her thoughts.

Gooseberry is another color that has both problems, inconsistent opacity and graying.

Hmm.
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  #7  
Old 2013-07-21, 1:41pm
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I think a lot of the CIM colors have to do with heating and cooling phases in semi opal range. Keep in mind this is just a theory I have, not confirmed fact. Cirrus is controlled by heating and cooling phases to create the cloudiness. I got a Unique Rose Quartz that is the prettiest transparent, but it wanted to milk up with cooling, I worked it really hot, cooled it just to press briefly and the cooked heat right back in...worked hot the whole time, and it stayed transparent, I am guessing quite a few of the CIM Semi OP's colors work that way, affected by heating and cooling phases.
-Becca
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  #8  
Old 2013-07-21, 2:04pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravenesque View Post
I don't have this color, but perhaps it's like Kryptonite where it changes according to kiln area/time? Like, beads that I do the beginning of a session are more translucent, the others that are in the longest are more opaque.

Now I keep them near the door, I think there was a thread discussing this.
Yes, here http://lampworketc.com/forums/showth...ght=kryptonite
I keep the one called Chalcedony closer to the kiln door so it stays translucent. If I am doing nothing but small 8-10mm spacers and frit beads, then I anneal them at 968 for about 45 minutes. I only make small spacers with it and I do them last in a session. I think Kryptonite works the same way.

This is what I can do: I need to get an order in to Howaco next month and I will try my experiment with a couple of rods of each of those colors you mentioned and see if I can get some consistency. I will post my results here.
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  #9  
Old 2013-07-21, 2:23pm
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Here is the Chalcedony in 10mm spacers. Translucent every single time, and I never got the opaque ones anymore once I figured out that they needed to be done last and kept closer to the door. Toward the back of the kiln (and I have a 12" deep kiln), is where it's hotter and they will become more opaque. Especially if they are garaging more than an hour and then annealing for another hour.



You could batch anneal the small beads too. Sometimes if I make a lot of 8mm beads I will just choose to batch anneal instead of run the kiln all day. I have batched these and they turn out the same.

Timing is what it is all about. If you are garaging these finicky translucent color CiM beads, here is what you should do. The time you spend making them is important to note. In your last 30 minutes of torching, make as many as you can in that time and that's it. Then set to anneal. They should be fine and all should be the same color/translucency. If you need to make more beads to complete a set, then do this again in your next torching session.

This is also how I work with kiln-striking colors like Copper Ruby frit, the iris golds, yellows, and ambers, and Val Cox's Boro Bora. Too long in the kiln and they can become a very dark brown. With the right timing the colors are beautiful.
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  #10  
Old 2013-07-21, 2:31pm
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Becca mentioned Rose Quartz which I tried much later on down the road after I had my first trials and errors with Chalcedony, so I treated it the same way. It has always been consistent in the translucency, although I do believe the Rose Quartz is a little more forgiving.

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Last edited by Lisi; 2013-07-21 at 2:33pm.
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  #11  
Old 2013-07-21, 8:44pm
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Beautiful beads Lisa but the issue with Poseidon and Thunder Egg is that it randomly goes gray.

I don't have this issue with Chalcedony, Rose Quartz, Kryptonite, Crocus, etc.

This is the problem I have with Poseidon. I've given up using it. If you want my stash I'd be happy to send it to you. I have most of a lb. left.
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  #12  
Old 2013-07-21, 9:04pm
queenofsheba52 queenofsheba52 is offline
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I run a Minor on natural gas (from the house line) and tanked oxy. My flame is cooler than a propane flame, and I don't have the trouble with Poseidon turning gray.

Hmm....

This might weigh in on the idea to work it cooler?

--Helene
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  #13  
Old 2013-07-21, 11:50pm
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That's just weird, do you think it's acting like copper green, just acting up fast? My head hurts but I'm trying to say maybe it's reducing somehow?

I don't know but it looks sorta cool gray-ish imo

ETA, have you asked Kathy at CIM?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lisi View Post
I keep the one called Chalcedony closer to the kiln door so it stays translucent. If I am doing nothing but small 8-10mm spacers and frit beads, then I anneal them at 968 for about 45 minutes. I only make small spacers with it and I do them last in a session. I think Kryptonite works the same way.

This is what I can do: I need to get an order in to Howaco next month and I will try my experiment with a couple of rods of each of those colors you mentioned and see if I can get some consistency. I will post my results here.
Thanks but I can get them consitent now I was just trying to help the OP, I keep the colors mentioned near the front as you mentioned. Unless I want them more opaque.
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  #14  
Old 2013-07-22, 5:38am
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I emailed Kathy at CIM. She doesn't usually work weekends, smart woman. I'd expect to hear from her this week, unless her family is traveling on vacation or she's on one of her trips to China.
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Old 2013-07-22, 6:50am
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Inconsistent colors from one bead to the next is why I don't work with silver glass. That would drive me crazy. They would wind up being orphan beads and I certainly can't afford to sell those at $1.20 a bead.
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  #16  
Old 2013-07-24, 10:33pm
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If you're giving it away, I'll take it off your hands lol. I like the diversity of color you're getting, but understand it's hard to make a set.

Patsy
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  #17  
Old 2013-07-25, 12:21pm
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Fickle glass like that is totally usable, and it is a nice range of colors. For single (focal) beads.
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Old 2013-07-25, 12:33pm
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Lisi, I have been playing with the Rose Quartz this week. The first bead on my first session of many beads, came out a beautiful pink. Then the res, barely turned pink. Some not at all. I did nothing different, I barely even moved on my stool. lol Not sure. I tried a second session, and I did not get any pink results. So I gave up for now. I just have ONE pretty bead to admire.

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Fickle glass like that is totally usable, and it is a nice range of colors. For single (focal) beads.
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Old 2013-07-25, 12:37pm
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What is your propane set at? I was having some problems like that and cut my propane pressure by half and the problem went away. I have good oxycons but find it hard to get a huge oxidizing flame. There just isn't enough oxy put out by them. When I was running my cricket on 2 fives there was no issue. Since I got my scorpion if I open it up to much on the propane it goes reducing no matter how much it hisses from the oxy ports. If I keep the propane pressure to 2 lbs it runs like a dream.
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Old 2013-07-25, 12:57pm
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Hmmmm. I need to look at mine; ok, I am on propane and bottle oxygen. I'm set at about 2.5lbs/3lbs gas and almost 6 oxygen. Am I way off??
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Old 2013-07-25, 1:57pm
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I have never ran tanked so I don't know. Some of it depends on what torch you are running. My cons put out 8 to 10 psi if I remember correctly. But it is less pure than tanked.

At 2 psi on propane I don't have any problems with soft glass if I work 5 inches away from the torch face. Most colors I can work a little closer but there isn't a lot of gain to it.
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Old 2013-07-26, 7:27pm
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Could your flame be slightly reducing? The gray might be coming from that? I've also learned when using CiM semi opals for spacers that they turn opaque on me if I try and go back to keep them warm in the flame (I make 4-6 spacers on one mandrel). So even a slight cooling and warming again will do it. Try to work fast and once you're done, pop them into the kiln before it gets too cool. HTH!
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Old 2013-07-27, 5:56am
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Since we are talking CIM colors..I just used Ghee for the first time last week and was really disappointed with the color coming out of the kiln..the lovely yellow color turned a yucky brownish color.Any suggestions or is it supposed to do that? Tx
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Old 2013-07-27, 4:22pm
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lol I love the 'yucky' brown, I remember a thread here someone wanting to know how to get that other than the yellow haha! http://lampworketc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=238292

If you work ghee hot/longer it goes brown, so since you want the yellow, work it cooler
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Old 2013-07-27, 5:16pm
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Lol..Thanks Raven..you say cooler..others say hot and longer so I will try it again.I didn't know it also turned caramel colored with burgundy and other colors.So I see that a cooler annealing time will make it come out lighter so I have to just put Ghee in my kiln and shorten the time..but that to me would be kinda wasteful if I want to also do other glass.Things that make you go hmm..lol..I won't quit trying.I do love the caramel beads i saw.Thanks for the input..will keep you all posted
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