reduction glass and ivory

Emily · #1 2006-10-29, 5:48pm

Are there any colors of reduction glass that don't discolor ivory? I am trying to put raised reduction decoration on an ivory base, and the ivory ends up looking like it's been playing in the dirt. It seems like the same sort of creeping dirt that you get when you make the hideous mistake of using rubino with ivory -- as in it's not confined to the area where the colors are touching, but covers a much wider area. It appears before I've reduced the frit, so it's a reaction between the reduction glass and the ivory, not smut from the reduction (and it doesn't come off, either -- unless I do a pretty good etch on the bead, which I don't want to do).

Yes, I realize I could figure this out myself by testing every color of reduction frit I own, but I'm way, way, too lazy. Can anyone save me from The Curse of the Creeping Crud?

jana · #2 2006-10-29, 5:52pm

If you encase the ivory, will the glass still reduce with the same results?

Emily · #3 2006-10-30, 12:40pm

I can't see why it would, if I managed to cover the ivory completely. Even with a thin layer, though, the encasing would be visible and it wouldn't be the look I'm going for. If I can say this about a bead without sounding too stupid and pretentious, it would change the feel of the piece.

SuzyQ · #4 2006-10-30, 2:08pm

Have you tried using silver pink instead of ivory?

jrandrup · #5 2006-10-30, 2:16pm

Moretti Ivory is highly reactive with most reduction colors. Even on regular colors, I find the other glass "sinks" into the ivory and blurs around the edges. Have you tried a different ivory? Vetrofond ivory seems to be a little less reactive, then there's Moretti alabaster ivory.

Actually, try CiM Ginger or Butter Pecan. They are beautiful and don't react much.

If you haven't tried any of these, I can mail you some samples if you like. PM me with your address if you're interested.

Emily · #6 2006-10-30, 3:44pm

The CiMs seem a lot darker in the rod. Unless they lighten up when you use them, they're browner than I want.

I didn't realize that Vetrofond ivory was less reactive. Is that true of all shades? Seems like Vetrofond has a bunch of ivories. I hadn't bothered trying, because I figured the formulas were probably practically identical. I think I've got some Vetro ivory lying around. I'll dig it out and give it a try. If you think there are particular shades of V. ivory that are less reactive than others, let me know. I know I don't have all of the shades, probably only a couple, so I might not have the best ones. Still, I'll try whatever I've got on hand.

And by Moretti alabaster ivory, you're talking alabastro? I have never used alabastro -- not since somebody in my beginning class asked Kate Fowle, "what do you do with alabastro?" and she said, "I throw it across the room." I figure I have enough frustration in my life already. Still . . . I'll keep it in mind. Thanks, Joy.

Suzy, I think I might have already used up all the silver pink I had by accidentally picking it up when I thought I was using ivory. It's really nice to work, isn't it? I wish it weren't so expensive (and not quite so yellow). But that's another way to go if the Vetro gives me trouble. Thanks.

beadgoodies · #7 2006-10-31, 4:17am

None of the reactive frit I've ever used behaved well on ivory. Even non-reactive frit will turn brown -- either on the frit or on the ivory.

On the first pic, I put a layer of clear between the ivory and the frit. I still got some browning on the ivory even though there was a layer of clear in between. With this set, it was okay because it goes with the color scheme. It's not so great with I'm working with purples and yellows!

On this pic, I completely encased the ivory AND put the frit only in the middle and I didn't get much browning at all. If any of the frit bits get even close to the ivory, that spot will turn brown and ruin the whole bead.

Now, I've seen some people work frit and ivory and actually get good results. I think the trick is to work FAST or rather get the bits (or stringer) just barely melted flat and then pull out of the heat ASAP. The key is to not give the frit/stringer much time to react. If you've ever seen Bluff's beads, she sometimes uses Raku with Ivory and her beads look fantastic! She does it by not quite melting the raku flat. If you look real close, you can see it.

I've never used any of the Vetro ivories with reactive frit. So, I can't really comment on that.

Candy

misfit · #8 2006-10-31, 4:46am

The vetro pale ivory ( an odd lot) doesn't seem to react much at all. In fact I've ften wished it was more reactive. Its creamier in color and has less brown tones to it, but likely will please you. And as a general rule the effetre and vetro ivories don't react alike for me at all. The vetro dark ivory I have gets much more caremel than my effetre dark ivory, The vetro dark also has less of a reaction line. they all seem to have their differences.