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Customer Service Kiosk -- Questions for LE vendors. |
2007-09-11, 6:32am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 05, 2005
Location: Cary, NC
Posts: 296
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Retro Glass Tools - tubing size question
I just got my Bead Liner in the mail the other day and am loving it! I just happened to have some smaller sized tubing on hand and was able to play right away. However, I can't seem to figure out what sized tubing to get for the larger sizes (1/4, 3/8, 1/2). Your website shows exactly what size tubing to buy for the original set of dies, but not for the larger you buy seperately. Would anyone happen to have that info handy?
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2007-09-11, 1:39pm
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Calendar Girl
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Join Date: Apr 15, 2007
Location: The "Hamptons", New York
Posts: 370
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Haven't had a chance to try mine yet. But would love this info also. Thanks.
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2007-09-11, 6:14pm
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Administrator
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Join Date: Sep 18, 2004
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 5,131
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Sterling Silver Tubing part numbers from Metalliferous.com
3/32 mandrel - STB403
1/8 mandrel - SI8473
5/32 mandrel - SI8474
3/16 mandrel - SI8475
1/4 mandrel* - SI8478T
3/8 mandrel* - SI8480T
1/2 mandrel* - SI8481T
*larger sized tubing should be annealed before use
Sterling Silver Discs
3/8" 24 gauge - SI8467 Sterling/Fine
1/2" 24 gauge - SI8466 Sterling/Fine
3/4" 24 gauge - SI8465 Sterling/Fine
Hope that helps
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CorriDawn
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2007-09-12, 1:54am
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Calendar Girl
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Join Date: Apr 15, 2007
Location: The "Hamptons", New York
Posts: 370
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Thanks, I will print this out and keep it in the box.
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2007-09-12, 5:58am
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Dangerous Woman
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Join Date: Nov 21, 2005
Location: Southcentral PA
Posts: 5,018
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Quote:
Thanks, I will print this out and keep it in the box.
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GREAT idea. To view links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. I would have hunted down this thread every time I needed the info! To view links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Thanks Marjo. To view links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
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Nancy
May your torch burn brightly and your oxy never run out. - Karen Hardy
On a Cheetah with a hurricane Still have my Lynx as a back up.
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2007-09-12, 6:17am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 05, 2005
Location: Cary, NC
Posts: 296
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Thank you SO much! Now I get to spend more money... To view links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
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2007-09-14, 7:54pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 14, 2006
Location: FL
Posts: 224
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What is it?
HI. Can you tell me what a bead liner is, and what the Sam Hill you are talking about? :L)
Thanks!
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2007-09-14, 10:42pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 18, 2006
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 1,528
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Quote:
I just got my Bead Liner in the mail the other day and am loving it! I just happened to have some smaller sized tubing on hand and was able to play right away. However, I can't seem to figure out what sized tubing to get for the larger sizes (1/4, 3/8, 1/2). Your website shows exactly what size tubing to buy for the original set of dies, but not for the larger you buy seperately. Would anyone happen to have that info handy?
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Does that mean you can now beadline beads for Biagi braclets and the like?
I didn't realise, I thought it only did smaller sized holes. Is that the larger size dies you are talking about that you can buy seperately? I can't find them on the website for Retro tools.
Kym
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2007-09-26, 2:15pm
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Innovative Tools
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Join Date: Aug 01, 2006
Location: South of KC, MO
Posts: 87
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Beadliner
The beadliner is a tool that can silver core your beads.
They can core beads from 3/32 to 1/2 mandrel made beads.
Thanks
Jerry
RetroGlassTools
Quote:
HI. Can you tell me what a bead liner is, and what the Sam Hill you are talking about? :L)
Thanks!
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2007-09-26, 2:17pm
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Innovative Tools
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Join Date: Aug 01, 2006
Location: South of KC, MO
Posts: 87
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Kym,
Check us out at retroglasstools.com
Jerry
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2007-09-26, 8:01pm
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Metallic Flame Studios
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Join Date: Jun 09, 2005
Location: Bratville...
Posts: 3,104
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Quote:
Does that mean you can now beadline beads for Biagi braclets and the like?
I didn't realise, I thought it only did smaller sized holes. Is that the larger size dies you are talking about that you can buy seperately? I can't find them on the website for Retro tools.
Kym
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Kym,
If you have a size you want and don't see it, just contact Jerry and Nori. They are AWESOME at creating what lampworkers want, and do special order "dies" for the liner.
Stacy
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Stacy
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Kickin' it on a Knight, a Betta, a 'Cuda, and a SmithLittle with 3 Oxycons, Playing with Fire Since February 2004 Check out our new journey into Metal (yes, including tools) and glass...
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2007-09-27, 5:47am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 05, 2005
Location: Cary, NC
Posts: 296
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Sorry I didn't respond to this sooner. I just came back to this thread. Yep, you can line beads for the charm bracelets. I have a Troll bracelet and I just finished lining 2 beads to go on it (I haven't tried them on a Pandora bracelet yet, though, but I hear they should work). Along with the Beadliner I find it helps to have a jewelers hammer (I think it's called a "chasing" hammer) to get the edges to lay a little flatter (I use the rounded end of the hammer). The basic die set that comes with the liner has the right sized die for the bracelet beads. Now I'm just waiting for my order of new mandrels to come in so I can make more. At the moment I only have 1 mandrel the right size for making the bracelet beads!
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2007-10-02, 7:17pm
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I'm not Barbie.
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Join Date: Sep 03, 2005
Location: Out of my mind - beautifully so.
Posts: 4,054
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I've been wondering about this forever too, thanks Corrie!
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2007-11-10, 6:38am
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Janell
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Join Date: Jan 29, 2006
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 216
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Silver Core
If Im wrong tell me but if you spend so many dollars on a tool that is supposed to silver line why should you have to use a small jewelers hammer to flatten out an edge that was supposed to be flattened with the tool? I have been making beads for about 6 years and I made sure my beads were perfect on each side no wonkiness and I still can feel the edge. I have the right tubing and the tool and my husband has worked with custom jewlery all his life.
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2007-11-12, 8:39am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 28, 2006
Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
Posts: 448
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Quote:
If Im wrong tell me but if you spend so many dollars on a tool that is supposed to silver line why should you have to use a small jewelers hammer to flatten out an edge that was supposed to be flattened with the tool? I have been making beads for about 6 years and I made sure my beads were perfect on each side no wonkiness and I still can feel the edge. I have the right tubing and the tool and my husband has worked with custom jewlery all his life.
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I would like to know that too
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2007-11-23, 7:39pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 23, 2007
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 1,332
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forget the hammer
You are right, Janelle - you should not use a hammer on your beads after using the Retro Tools Beadliner. You shouldn't have to. If the ends of the bead are truly perfect and dimpled, and you kept it properly centered on the liner as you flared it, it should snug down perfectly with no adjustment needed. However! You don't want to overcrank the hand wheel. So some people prefer to fine-tune off the machine, rather than risk chipping the bead by getting it too tight with the hand wheel. But really, a hammer is overkill. Use a burnisher instead. This is a smooth metal tool that you use to press and smooth the metal, rather than smacking it. Mine has a curved surface and a pointed tip; I rest the tip inside the hole and smooth down the liner a tad with the smooth, curved side if it doesn't sit right on the bead the first time. ~Jenny the Firebrand
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2007-11-24, 9:42am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 24, 2005
Posts: 1,343
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Jim Moore's press offers a set of dies that will do this for you........... no hammering, very easy.
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Andrea
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2007-11-24, 3:28pm
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"Sinners have soul too"
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Join Date: Jun 26, 2005
Location: The beachy part of So Cal
Posts: 4,258
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I have a Retro Bead Liner I got for Christmas last year... I've only used it a couple of times... Any one interested? I'll let it go for $300 and I'll pay the shipping. ---- SOLD, thank you ----
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Donna
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2008-04-14, 5:40pm
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Newly Addicted Lampworkor
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Join Date: Feb 26, 2008
Location: NoVA
Posts: 28
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Anneal the Silver Tubing??
Please forgive my ignorance, but I am very new to lampwork. I've marked this page as a reference, becaused it is proving entirely INVALUABLE to me - especially this particular segment. <Thank you! Thank you!> To view links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Although it will likely be a pretty silly question ... I do still have one. ...
To view links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. What does this mean: "*larger sized tubing should be annealed before use" ...?
Am I to put the silver in the kiln?
If anyone can offer some advice, I really appreciate it!!
Thank you!
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Quote:
Sterling Silver Tubing part numbers from Metalliferous.com
3/32 mandrel - STB403
1/8 mandrel - SI8473
5/32 mandrel - SI8474
3/16 mandrel - SI8475
1/4 mandrel* - SI8478T
3/8 mandrel* - SI8480T
1/2 mandrel* - SI8481T
*larger sized tubing should be annealed before use
Sterling Silver Discs
3/8" 24 gauge - SI8467 Sterling/Fine
1/2" 24 gauge - SI8466 Sterling/Fine
3/4" 24 gauge - SI8465 Sterling/Fine
Hope that helps
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I'm a NewOldDog: Too old to be on the starting side of learning something new; and too old to care about being too old to learn something new ... so, I'm going for it. Who needs fingerprints, anyway? To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
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2008-04-14, 6:12pm
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Calendar Girl
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Join Date: Apr 15, 2007
Location: The "Hamptons", New York
Posts: 370
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How to anneal silver
You anneal the silver to soften it and make it more malleable. Here's a little tutorial I found. Hope this helps.
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2008-04-14, 9:29pm
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Newly Addicted Lampworkor
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Join Date: Feb 26, 2008
Location: NoVA
Posts: 28
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Thanks, Marjo! I so much appreciate you answering - and very quickly!!
That definitely explains it to me. Guess I'm in trouble, tho, To view links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. because I work out of a local studio and rent bench/torch time ... which means that I don't have my own kiln. So, that definitely adds a new level of intrigue and complication for me. I'd also say that it adds more "urgency" to the feeling that I need to be able to get my home studio set up.
Any chance you (or anyone) would have any suggestions for what I could do in the interim?
~~ Excuse me, but now I have to get back to counting my pennies, which I will then have to multiply by about 4000. Maybe that will be enough. To view links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Quote:
You anneal the silver to soften it and make it more malleable. Here's a little tutorial I found. Hope this helps.
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I'm a NewOldDog: Too old to be on the starting side of learning something new; and too old to care about being too old to learn something new ... so, I'm going for it. Who needs fingerprints, anyway? To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
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2008-04-15, 3:03am
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Calendar Girl
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Join Date: Apr 15, 2007
Location: The "Hamptons", New York
Posts: 370
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Something tells me you might be confused here. This thread is about lining glass beads with silver cores after the beads are all finished and annealed in a kiln. You anneal your beads in a kiln to prevent cracking.
Then, if you want to line the beads with silver at a later date, you need to anneal the silver to make it softer and easier to form to the shape of your bead.
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2008-04-15, 3:06am
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Calendar Girl
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Join Date: Apr 15, 2007
Location: The "Hamptons", New York
Posts: 370
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Something tells me you might be confused here. This thread is about lining glass beads with silver cores after the beads are all finished and annealed in a kiln. You anneal your beads in a kiln to prevent cracking.
Then, if you want to line the beads with silver at a later date, you need to anneal the silver to make it softer and easier to form to the shape of your bead.
If you are at the point where you are lining your beads, you can anneal the silver pieces with a hand held butane torch and a flame proof soldering surface, which are not too expensive.
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2008-04-15, 9:47pm
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Newly Addicted Lampworkor
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Join Date: Feb 26, 2008
Location: NoVA
Posts: 28
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Hi, Marjo: To view links or images in this forum your post count must be 1 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Nope, I wasn't confused. I've been following this particular concept and learning from it. Lining my beads is key to my own personal goals - and I have ordered a bead liner from Jim Moore (hasn't yet arrived).
I got concerned when I read that it said you needed to "anneal the silver" for larger beads - but only because I work out of a commercial studio. (Specifically the statement that said ""*larger sized tubing should be annealed before use".)
Thanks for the update tho - I had no idea you could anneal silver with a hand torch!!!
Thanks again for all that you've taught me in finding the right sized silver for the appropriate mandrels. I REALLY appreciate it!
Quote:
Something tells me you might be confused here. This thread is about lining glass beads with silver cores after the beads are all finished and annealed in a kiln. You anneal your beads in a kiln to prevent cracking.
Then, if you want to line the beads with silver at a later date, you need to anneal the silver to make it softer and easier to form to the shape of your bead.
If you are at the point where you are lining your beads, you can anneal the silver pieces with a hand held butane torch and a flame proof soldering surface, which are not too expensive.
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I'm a NewOldDog: Too old to be on the starting side of learning something new; and too old to care about being too old to learn something new ... so, I'm going for it. Who needs fingerprints, anyway? To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
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