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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2007-12-30, 4:37pm
dulceisler dulceisler is offline
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Smile When to use the kiln???

First off, let me start by saying You guys ROcK!!!

I was told that when I make a bead that is "large-ish", it should be put in the kiln - what size is "large-ish" as a general rule. At what point do you put it in the kiln? After it has been cooled down and taken off the mandrel?

I have a Paragon XPress Kiln that can fire up to 2300degrees and is digital. What is my ramp up time, hold time, etc?

THANKS ALOT FOR ALL OF UR HELP!!!!


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  #2  
Old 2007-12-30, 4:51pm
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Hi dulceisler, and welcome!

All beads should be kiln-annealed at some point. How you handle that is the product of many variables. Ideally, in my opinion, your work should go into the kiln as soon as you've finished work on it and it's just cool enough that you won't get marks on it from it laying on the kiln floor. It is, of course, still on the mandrel at this point, as it's just cooled off enough that it isn't glowing.

If your kiln has a bead door, this is a simple matter: Make a bead, put it in the kiln, until you're done for the day.

I'm a little pressed for time right now, or I'd address more of your questions. My best bit of advice for you is to get a good book on flameworking. There are a few out there, and they'll give you so much great info!
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  #3  
Old 2007-12-30, 6:33pm
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ellyloo ellyloo is offline
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Hi!
This is what I do.
My kiln is right beside me as I torch.

I ramp my kiln up to 960 as fast as is healthy for my kiln (some say top speed stresses the kiln out, some say it doesn't... I just do it fast enough to get there within the hour)

Hold for as long as you want to torch, plus 30 mins or so.
I set it to ramp down to 840 at 100 degrees/hr.
I set it to hold for about 45 mins, (some do for much less, but i like to be double darn sure of annealing, and this covers any 'larger' pieces I may make)
After that, how slow you ramp down is up to you....I kinda forget what my kiln is programmed to do, I think it stops at 500 again for 20 mins, and then goes down to 200 and shuts off. It takes mine all night, i don't mind going slow.


Torch! When you deem your bead as "DONE" (large or small) --place it into the kiln.
Keep it up!

When your kiln is down to the last 30 mins, you're done.
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Last edited by ellyloo; 2007-12-30 at 6:43pm.
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  #4  
Old 2007-12-30, 9:12pm
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Elly, I think all of us in S.Ontario have the same annealing schedule. That is so funny!
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  #5  
Old 2007-12-30, 9:38pm
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Another thing to consider: the type of glass you're using dictates the annealing temp. Do some research on this and other forums and you'll find there's TONS of information out there. Tink and some others have been working on a chart for annealing various types of glass. http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...aling+schedule

This will give you some good information. As you research, prepare to be overwhelmed. Then take a deep breath and dive in! You'll figure it out as you go. Have fun!!
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  #6  
Old 2007-12-30, 9:46pm
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ellyloo ellyloo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carolyn M View Post
Elly, I think all of us in S.Ontario have the same annealing schedule. That is so funny!
It is!
Annealing Culture.
Different dialects for different parts of the country....

It probably means we all learned it from the same group of people.
(some more down the line than others).

I want to be extra sure I"m okay, especially if i'm doing something in the winter...can't hurt to soak longer, or twice, or ramp down slower..... *shrug*

PS: Oh yes.... and about the types: yes! I dabbled with Satake once, and decided not to dabble more, because I didn't want to change my schedule all around... and I know that once I start dabbling with Boro I'll have to change things (higher)
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  #7  
Old 2007-12-31, 9:10am
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Elly, my schedule is very similar to yours! But I thought my kiln was running a little too hot on hold time, so I have it set at 940 for garaging.

Yes, I agree all beads should be annealed, even tiny spacers.
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