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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2008-01-06, 12:08pm
raintree raintree is offline
Raintree,
 
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Default Tecniques for etching ?

Can anyone tell me why my beads look splotchy and not uniform after useing etching cream ? Thank you, Raintree
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  #2  
Old 2008-01-06, 12:17pm
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Anastasia Anastasia is offline
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Try etching fluid instead of the cream...it is way harder to apply cream evenly....
Furthermore, before etching, make sure the beads are absolutely clean, which also means: no fingerprints...(you can use alcohol to wipe them...wear gloves while handling them)

Anastasia
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  #3  
Old 2008-01-06, 2:15pm
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Anastasia is right about using the liquid and being sure thqt everything is clean. Another thing to bear in mind is that all glass does not etch the same. Different colors contain a variety of components that can have an effect on how the glass responds. Black can go splotchy if your etching fliud is getting tired, red can get splotchy pretty easily as well. It's not a bad idea to test new colors before you dump in a load of complicated or valuable beads.

Robert
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  #4  
Old 2008-01-06, 2:34pm
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Tirian Tirian is offline
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Spectacular set, by the way!

If you don't want it because a couple splotched, I've got a good home for them!

Jim
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  #5  
Old 2008-01-06, 3:28pm
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Also make sure they're all dry... I've been told water and etching liquid don't get along well.
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  #6  
Old 2008-01-07, 11:24am
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The cream is kind of a pain to use. I used it because I already had it. I found that the best way to use it is to put the bead in the cream and let it sit there. I put the bead on a wire, then put the whole bead in the cream. I put a hook at the top of the wire to hang over the edge of the bottle, and screw the top right back on. Works great.

Do NOT try to thin your cream. If you add water to your cream, you will ruin it.

I clean my beads with Dawn dishwashing liquid, then let them dry before I put them in the cream.

The cream has some good qualities, it will only etch so much at one time. If you want more etching, you have to wash off the cream and re-immerse the bead.

I usually etch my beads about 15 minutes in the cream. It does seem to take longer than the liquid.

Remember not to get the cream on your hands. Gloves are a good idea. Always wash your hands afterwards very well with lots of soap, soap will counteract the acid. Even if the acid isn't bothering your skin, it seeps into your body and is very bad for your bones and joints.

When I finish etching and washing the bead, I throw the bead still on the wire into some toilet bowl cleaner and swish it around. I generally swish it every 5 minutes or so about 4 times. I put some toilet bowl cleaner in an old glass horseradish jar, so I use it over and over and over. It also counteracts the acid, and will get rid of any white marks left by the acid.
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#T53
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  #7  
Old 2008-01-07, 1:50pm
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Remember that the active ingredient in glass etching solutions is hydrofluoric acid. It does not burn you skin, but penetrates the soft tissue and attacks the calcium in the underlying bone. Always wear gloves, preferably something like nitrile - this is seriously bad stuff.

Robert
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  #8  
Old 2008-01-07, 6:29pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSimmons View Post
Remember that the active ingredient in glass etching solutions is hydrofluoric acid. It does not burn you skin, but penetrates the soft tissue and attacks the calcium in the underlying bone. Always wear gloves, preferably something like nitrile - this is seriously bad stuff.

Robert
Yep! What Robert said! I couldn't remember any of the names, but it is so important that people who use etching solutions of any kind know this information. They don't put it on the bottles, and people aren't likely to get and read the IMSHA sheets.
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#T53
"I love making lampwork beads, one at a time, with a Cricket or Minnnow burner on 5LPM oxycons".
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  #9  
Old 2008-01-08, 5:59am
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You could also try using a tumbler with some fine sand and glass pony beads. I have the stuff to do this but haven't tried it yet. They say it gives a very nice etched surface.
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