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Old 2008-06-18, 11:09am
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Default Rivet Tutorial (Da pretty silva bit)

Hi Girls and Boys. Here is a tutorial on putting in the inserts to fit the assorted bracalets going around. A warning im not into spelling or punctuation so just look at the info not the grammer.

I will do two parts to it one being the putting in of the insert and the second being the polishing and a little bit on a few tools that make it a little easier. The first bit is complete and the second part will be finished before the weekend.

If you would like to use the information and images somewere else by all means do but dont pass it of as your own.

Ok of we go then.

First part is a nice clean area to work on and the tools required close at hand.



A polished steel block.
Dapping punches ( You do not require a full set i only used the 6mm and 9mm)
Small tube cutter ( commonly used in the plumbing and refrigeration trade )
Chasing hammer (The better polished the face the less polishing )
Ball Pein hammer ( This hammer hits the punches, never the chasing hammer)
Tube of your choice im using Sterling Silver 6mm outside diam 5.2mm inside.
A ezylap tapered reamer ( expensive but will last a lifetime)
Fine #4 round needle file.
Digital vernier calipers ( a simple ruler will do its not critical )



If the mandrel that you use is a little to small then a ezylap industrial diamond reamer is without a doubt the best tool ive found for cleaning and enlarging holes.



When i cleanout the bead pooh always makes me laugh when i hear that. I like the fit to be tight but when the tube is stood upright the bead will fall to the bottom. Ive found that it helps stop the tube collapsing when you are striking it with the dapping punches.



Measure up your bead. Always try and find the widest part and as i said above a ruler will suffice. Although a set of digital calipers is only just over the ten dollar mark these days.

Just a little note here, this is just me but if you find that the bead you are measuring has a large difference in size from one edge to the other and you are using sterling silver or gold. Dont bother with it just move on to another one.



Once you have your measurment add on your four millimeters ( 5/32) You can go more or less but i have found that 4mm gives me the nice domed effect that i like on the rivets. If you add more than 6mm on to the measurment of the bead i have found it just starts to constrict the internal diameter of the tube.

There is two reasons i like the domed look one is well i just like it and the second one which i worked out after a while is it actualy prevents the cracking of the bead when doing those final hits with the chasing hammer. A bit like a shock absorber. As long as you dont flatten out the dome when using the chasing hammer you can hit it fairly hard. ( lol have i let myself in for some nasty messages or what?)



Whatever measurment you have transfer that to the tube you are using. I just use the calipers to mark it. Or file the handle end of a file (notsure how to do that if you only have one file though) to a needle point. This makes a great scribe.



Now there are many ways to cut tubing but my favorite is with believe it or not a tube cutter. Now i have been using these for eons as it comes from one of my trades. The one i am using here is a mini one very handy cuts exactly 90 degrees everytime and extremely easy to be dead on accurate. For under 10 dollars from somewere like wallmart, bunnings or if you dont have something like that to go to a plumbing supplier or a airconditioning/refrigeration supplier. The secret to using one of these is only turn the tensioning screw a quarter turn to turning the tube once.



Once you have cut of the required length of tube you will need to take of the burr. It is far easier to do it now than later . I use a fine round needle file (fine being the coarsness off the cut not the diameter). The better the job you do here the easier to polish later.



Now we get to hit things and here is the reason i have two hammers (ball pein) the one shown in the image is for hitting the punches. The punches are tempered steel which in short means they will destroy the polished face of your chasing hammer. Damaged face on chasing hammer = much polishing . So no hitty with the chassie.The dapping punch im using is a 6mm (1/4). i normaly use a punch = to the outside diameter of the tubing im using.



Attention to this image the most important part of making a simple job simple.

Note as extra insurance i put a old tea towel under my steel block to absorb some of the shock.

In the image i have already flared the tube asmuch as im going to with the 6mm punch. It only takes a couple of tiny hits. If you flare it anymore once you move to the larger punch you increase the chance of collapsing the tube. Which is not a massive problem just makes it harder to get a nice domed effect. Once you have done oneside turn over and do the other.



Now we switch to the 9mm (3/





Once again what you see in this image is the tube already flared with the 9mm punch. All we are really doing with the two punches is giving us a small flared lip with which we can work on with the chasing hammer to give us the domed effect.

From here you have two options


One flip it over and flare the otherside with the larger punch or two start using the chasing hammer on this flared lip. You will need to practise both ways to findout which one you prefer. I tend to flare oneside with the larger punch then hammer it.

Note
From this point on i continualy rotate the bead whilst using the chasing hammer and never ever take the angle of it.




Now when you look at this image you see the Chasing hammer, the larger face of the chasing hammer is highly polished. The more polished the face the easier the finish. My idea of highly polished is a mirror, i bought it highly polished then used 1500 grit then 2500 grit wet and dry. This hammer hits nothing else apart from silver and gold. Also you will notice the angle. Probale around 20 degrees. To get the domed effect that is how i always strike the flare never flat. This causes the flare to go past 90 degrees and form a lip which will droop forming the dome.



This image shows although its hard to see that ive used the chasing hammer to take the flare to 90 degrees. That is as far as i take it the first time. I now turn it over use the 9mm punch to flare the otherside and the chasing hammer to take the flare to 90 degrees.



Yay finaly we can see from this image that we now have gone past 90 degrees and our dome is forming. Basicaly from here we try and not get to carried away and keep changing sides till we have a nice uniform dome on both sides.



The different stages that the tube goes through.



The tube after it has been measured, cut and deburred.

If you have spent good money on a press this is the spot to use it.



After the first punch has been used.



After the second punch has been used. If you have spent good money on a press take it to this point.


This one is after the first time the chasing hammer is used.





These ones just show the progression until completion.

Look at the second to last one carefuly and you will notice it already has a very nice finisht to it which is to do with the polished surfaces of the steel block and chasing hammer. If the internal surface of the tube was better you wouldnt have to polish at all.

On the final one looking from the underneath you can see the mushroom or umbrella effect (concave ) which gives you the dome on top (convex ). As long as you dont hammer this out as you are finishing the insert it acts as a shock absorber. Touch wood every bead i have broken in the last 8 months have been from being to heavy handed on the press in the start. Not to the hammering.

Now i timed making this one and it took 28 minutes from the time i stood up to do the tutorial till the time i wrote Rivet Tutorial (Da pretty silva bit) That included setting up tools, taking all photos, editing all photos and doing the rivet. Lol when i first started it took me longer to just hammer the insert. I have learnt alot and think i have it down patt i can hammer a rivet in under ten minutes. I dont do it much faster on the press. So give it a whirl if its not working for you il try and help you out.

So as i stated at the start il do a follow up on polishing and some hints like the little stand the finished bead is sitting on which i call a Fat Finger Stand. I dont have fat fingers until ive hit them a few times whilst trying to hang onto the bead.

!!!!!!Note!!!!!!

Please remember this tutorial is how i do my beads to get a nice domed effect. People can probale do the same on there presses i have no idea. I have a press i have made myself (butchered really used to be something else) and use in the first part but i always finish my beads with the chasing hammer.

Updated 01/07/ 2008 Finaly the Polishing tutorial.
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Last edited by Andrew; 2008-07-01 at 9:09am.
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  #2  
Old 2008-06-18, 11:09am
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Fat Finger Stand

Hi honey im home. Sorry had to do it. Ok a lot of pms about the little stand i have made to stop me hitting my little fingas and also very handy if you have large puckers around the mandrel hole. Which causes the bead to touch the steel block before the insert does when doing the last bit of the dome with the chasing hammer. The one i have made took a while, so i thought how i could make it quicker and cheaper and below is what i have come up with.

Cost is under a dollar and took me longer to go and buy the bolt than it did to make. I timed it and it was 28 minutes from the time i started till i cut the tubing for the bead. May take others a little longer as i have a special sanding station i made (lol no bl**dy tutorial for it).



Ultra simple tools

A file any type really as long as it will remove the material from the bolt.If you dont have one a cheap one that will do the job under five dollars. Get a Flat smooth 2nd cut should do the job. Try and get one with a handle. So much nicer on the hands.
A bolt and nut.
My super duper Sanding board. Makes life so much easier. All it is 600/1200 then 2500 grit double sided tape on the back then stuck on a flat piece of board. This is not required but it just comes in so handy for somany things.



This shows the size comparison between the 6mm outside diameter tube i use and the bolt i bought. They are the same size so when you remove the thread it shouls fit inside the tube. Length wise big is not always bigger i used a 60 mm one. Which worked out better when i changed my mind and added a bit more to the design which you see at the end. Try for zinc coated or a non rusting material. Just incase you do beads in the rain. No not really dont normaly have any type of protective lubricant on them. so dont have to be cleaned.



Screw the nut down to the start of the thread so you can use the bolt as a handle whilst using the file on the nut to flatten the face before sanding it.



This is what the face of the nut should look like after filing and sanding on the 600 then 1200 and finaly the 2500 grit paper. If you like you could probale stop at 1200 grit paper but for the extra 2 minutes i just did it anyway.



Ok a important bit here in making sure you take the nut of and put it back on with the sanded face pointing back towards the head of the bolt so it doesnt get scratched in the next part.



Lol this has nothing to do with the nut getting scratched, just my lunatic kitten thinking its human and stealing some broccoli of the table to try.



Now with the cat gone of to destroy another part of the house and your nut turned over. Screw the nut down about 4mm doesnt have to be spot on just enough for the bead to sit on there nicely and when you are dapping the punch wont hit the top of the bolt through the bead.



Using the file with the nut on the bolt. File back the thread till it is gone. Leaving the nut on serves two purposes. One you know where the 4mm mark is and two it protects the thread from damage whilst filing. Once you have taken the thread right back you can then take the nut of and make it look real pretty with the sandpaper. The better the finish the less chance of damaging the domed face when working on the bead.



So there you go. Very simple. These two just show the bead i did on it and how the finished surfaces of the bolt and nut look.



Now these last photos show a after thought i had and will probale take further when i get a chance and make out of steel. This was as quick as going out to the shed and getting a scrap piece of pine a drill bit, drill and hammer. Drill bit was same diameter as the bolt so it wouldnt slop around when hitting the bead. All i did was take nut of bolt drill perpendicular hole in timber. Place bolt in start of drilled hole and hit it real hard. Being Monday its probale a nice thing to be doing. Once the bolt is flush underneath place the nut on the bolt again and take it out for a test run

Now if you cant get the head of the bolt into the timber you have three options.

1 hit it much much harder.

2 get a much much larger hammer.

3 call for back up.

Seriously though if its a soft wood like pine it will be very easy. Hope this is easy to follow if not please drop me a line and il see if i can help out.
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Last edited by Andrew; 2008-06-22 at 9:13pm.
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Old 2008-06-18, 11:40am
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Fantastic so far - THANK YOU
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Old 2008-06-18, 12:29pm
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Excellent Tut...thank you
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Old 2008-06-18, 12:43pm
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Wonderful! Thank you!
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  #6  
Old 2008-06-18, 1:32pm
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excellent! Could you please tell me where you got the punch thingie? I haven't seen anything like that before.
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Old 2008-06-18, 1:50pm
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Wow! Wonderful post. I've been doing the rivets wrong. I should try again. I can't wait for the polishing aspect.

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Old 2008-06-18, 1:54pm
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Wow...great stuff. Can't wait for the sequel!


....and here come the questions.....
It appears that the dome comes from the nice shiny chassing hammer hitting/taping the rim at 20 degree angle from the edge..? Does it sorta kinda turn the edges down ?
Do you work your way around the bead ..or maybe twist/turn it around the FFS < Fat Finger Stand> ? I am sure we will all need to know more about that.
I can understand that you do one side first, and then flip it over. But it looks like at one point after the dome sets in you need to keep flippin it back and forth to get a tighter fit. Correct?
At that point are you still hitting at an angle ? Do you lay anything over it...like a cloth or holy water so it won't break?? I' d be crossing my fingers at this point...

So for those of us who have ownership in a Jim Moore tool do you figure we could flare using the machine...using the larger bit which is nice and smooth, flip and then start the tap, tap tapping of Maxwell's Silver Hammer?
Sorry, couldn't resist.
I will be anxious to learn /read more about the way they come out so shiny..I use a dremel padded type bit with polish but sometimes it just seems to smear everything around and not really look very good. I then resort to my Sunshine cloth. We will be anxiously awaiting the shiny up tips.
I expect it is night time over there by now but please accept my thanks for doing all of this so far. And I am sure that every shopkeeper who sells those shiny hammers and those who sell that pipe cutter dealie thing will be thanking someone tomorrow too.

And what is really great is that I have a ton of scruffy beads to practice with..I guess I will sacrifice a bit of silver.

Many Thanks
Anne
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Old 2008-06-18, 5:09pm
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excellent tut! many thanks!
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Old 2008-06-18, 6:35pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suzanne View Post
excellent! Could you please tell me where you got the punch thingie? I haven't seen anything like that before.
Hi Suzanne this info was sent to me by DeAnne.

Thanks for the Info DeAnne lots of goodies there.

Thanks for those that have said thanks.

It appears that the dome comes from the nice shiny chassing hammer hitting/taping the rim at 20 degree angle from the edge..? Does it sorta kinda turn the edges down ?

You are correct Anne ive put in some more images to try and show it a bit better.

Do you work your way around the bead ..or maybe twist/turn it around the FFS < Fat Finger Stand> ? I am sure we will all need to know more about that.

Correct again i have adressed the turning of the bead above as well.

I can understand that you do one side first, and then flip it over. But it looks like at one point after the dome sets in you need to keep flippin it back and forth to get a tighter fit. Correct?
At that point are you still hitting at an angle ? Do you lay anything over it...like a cloth or holy water so it won't break?? I' d be crossing my fingers at this point...

I never stop hitting at the angle and as long as the dome remains no holy water is required.

So for those of us who have ownership in a Jim Moore tool do you figure we could flare using the machine...using the larger bit which is nice and smooth, flip and then start the tap, tap tapping of Maxwell's Silver Hammer?
Sorry, couldn't resist.

Great song

I have adressed this as well above. There is no reason not to use the presses i use mine but with practise there is little difference in time.

I will be anxious to learn /read more about the way they come out so shiny..I use a dremel padded type bit with polish but sometimes it just seems to smear everything around and not really look very good. I then resort to my Sunshine cloth. We will be anxiously awaiting the shiny up tips.
I expect it is night time over there by now but please accept my thanks for doing all of this so far. And I am sure that every shopkeeper who sells those shiny hammers and those who sell that pipe cutter dealie thing will be thanking someone tomorrow too.

And what is really great is that I have a ton of scruffy beads to practice with..I guess I will sacrifice a bit of silver.

Many Thanks
Anne
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Old 2008-06-19, 7:19am
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Hi guys

Sorry not going to get the second part done till next week Had three custom orders come in and want to get them out by monday. Happy to answer any questions though. Have a lovely start to the weekend.
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Old 2008-06-19, 12:23pm
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Wonderful!! So much work to do this tutorial so far...I appreciate the time and effort it took you to share this, mate!
Thank you !!!
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Old 2008-06-19, 1:06pm
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Oooo, wonderful, Thank you Andrew. I have always been a need to see pictures kind of person. Now I need to get tools
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Old 2008-06-19, 1:47pm
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Thanks so much for this wonderful tut! Can't wait to try it out. Pics are great, I can't wait to read more...
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Old 2008-06-19, 2:03pm
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I'm going to fly to Australia and hug you!! Thanks so much, I have most of the tools now I know what to do!!1
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Old 2008-06-19, 2:23pm
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Just a bit of a drive-by here...two quick questions:

1. Do you anneal your tube to soften it before you start the dapping process?*

2. Also, I blew it and deleted the PM I sent you yesterday with the balance of the list of what can be purchased at Harbor Freight. If you still have it, can you post it here for everyone?

(*If this is a "yes", or if anyone wants to know an easy way to accomplish this with "cheap" and "easy" tools, let me know and I'll share it here with Andrew's permission).
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Old 2008-06-20, 1:17am
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A total pleasure guys

If you want to know anything put a question in and il change tut to show the answer.

Hi DeAnne i do have it and il put all the tools and links you sent into a section in the tut if thats ok with you.

Thanks for the time spent looking them up

I did anneal to start with but found there was no real need and it added more time to the process. If you anneal to far down the tube and dont have a small tolerance between the tube and bead it actualy leads to the tube colapsing when you start the dapping process.

Please try it for yourself though as this is only a guide which i found to work for me. Please use the guide by all means but experiment as well and if you find something to be better than whats put up here please share.
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Old 2008-06-20, 4:50am
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Awesome tutorial Andy! I will have to give it a whirl.

Sal
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Old 2008-06-20, 6:12am
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I posted over in the pandora section also but I just want to let you guys know if I can do this...you can do this...
After reading Andrew's great tut I went out and got my shiny hammer...worked this morning on lining and I am pleased with my first results

I used a specialty jewelrs rouge 2 sided cloth..at least this fancy one was newer to me...couldn't find the real fine grit paper Andy was talking about.

Let's give a big HIGH FIVE to Andrew for straightening us all out


Anne
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Old 2008-06-20, 7:04am
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Wow, thank you so much. This is excellent.
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Old 2008-06-20, 7:49am
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Great tutorial ! Thank you.
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Old 2008-06-20, 7:54am
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Thanks for this Andrew..what a clean clear tutorial with lots of great photos. I'm always a little baffled when I see how easy this looks tho, because I've tried this and did not get the tube to move past your second photo describing the process a tube goes through, and it took me more than a couple of tiny hits to get it to go that far. Its possible I moved up too fast in successive sizes of dapping punches...??
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Old 2008-06-20, 12:46pm
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Thanks for the info on how to achieve that great doming effect! I can't wait until you do the polishing part. It's hard to find info on polishing, including the items necessary to get a mirror finish!
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Old 2008-06-20, 1:27pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anne225 View Post
I posted over in the pandora section also but I just want to let you guys know if I can do this...you can do this...
After reading Andrew's great tut I went out and got my shiny hammer...worked this morning on lining and I am pleased with my first results

I used a specialty jewelrs rouge 2 sided cloth..at least this fancy one was newer to me...couldn't find the real fine grit paper Andy was talking about.

Let's give a big HIGH FIVE to Andrew for straightening us all out


Anne
Anne~~~~~!!!!!

Just absolutely GORGEOUS WORK!!! Thanks so much for sharing these inspirational photos

~De
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Old 2008-06-21, 6:13pm
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OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO what is that cool bolt like thing you have the bead sitting on in the 15th photo? Can we make one and if so give me an idea! Is it nessesary? Does anyone else use this kind of thing?
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Old 2008-06-21, 9:09pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anne225 View Post
I posted over in the pandora section also but I just want to let you guys know if I can do this...you can do this...
After reading Andrew's great tut I went out and got my shiny hammer...worked this morning on lining and I am pleased with my first results

I used a specialty jewelrs rouge 2 sided cloth..at least this fancy one was newer to me...couldn't find the real fine grit paper Andy was talking about.

Let's give a big HIGH FIVE to Andrew for straightening us all out


Anne
Yahoo awesome anne, that is fantastic im so glad someone showed the results. You deserve a big pat on the back .

Quote:
Hi DeAnne i do have it and il put all the tools and links you sent into a section in the tut if thats ok with you.
Quote is from me in ealier post is it ok if i put those links into the tutorial in a tools section?

Quote:
Thanks for this Andrew..what a clean clear tutorial with lots of great photos. I'm always a little baffled when I see how easy this looks tho, because I've tried this and did not get the tube to move past your second photo describing the process a tube goes through, and it took me more than a couple of tiny hits to get it to go that far. Its possible I moved up too fast in successive sizes of dapping punches...??
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~♥ Deborah
Yes the hardest bit is knowing what is enought to get the next dapping punch to flare it. Also what sort of tube are You using and what is the wall thickness? If the wall thickness is to thick you really have to give it a good whack. The wall thickness i use is .4 of a mm.

So Take the Inside diameter of the tube from the outside of the tube which gives you both wall thicknesses combined the divide by two.

Mine is 6mm o/d minues 5.2mm i/d = .8mm divide by 2 = .4mm which is about average. So have a look at that first and see if you have a much thicker wall. If you have around the same as me then id make sure the first dapping punch isnt to big. Should only be about the same size as od of tube.

Hope that helps.

Quote:
Thanks for the info on how to achieve that great doming effect! I can't wait until you do the polishing part. It's hard to find info on polishing, including the items necessary to get a mirror finish!
Hi Lauralou

Will be next week before the polishing bit sorry.

Quote:
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO what is that cool bolt like thing you have the bead sitting on in the 15th photo? Can we make one and if so give me an idea! Is it nessesary? Does anyone else use this kind of thing?
Jen
Hi Jen

I have been working out a way to make it very cheap and quickly. I now have it worked out and it cost me about sixty cents and about 20 minutes to polish it. I will try and get that tutorial done tonight after a few more jobs. should only take 30 minutes hopfuly.

Thanks all for the lovely comments

Regards
Andrew.
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  #27  
Old 2008-06-21, 9:34pm
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BiaggiaBeads BiaggiaBeads is offline
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Andrew, thanks for a fantastic tutorial! I can't wait to dust my tools off now!
Thanks for creating and sharing the tut!
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  #28  
Old 2008-06-22, 12:13pm
Suchy Suchy is offline
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Default Thank you Andrew

Thank you so much for this wonderful tutorial Andrew.
I've tried "Da Pretty Silva Bit" over the years but never had much luck.

But with your directions, I was finally able to do it!



I cracked 2 beads on the first attempts. So I went back and read over your directions. Here's what I found -
* Pay close attention to using the small punches first to start your flare!
After you get your flair going, it's smooth sailing with the chasing hammer.
(note to self, get a new chasing hammer with a glass smooth surface!)
Oh, and I'm using copper tubing. I think it's thicker than the silver tubing that's normally used, so I had to add at least 4 mm and anneal it first. The first 2 beads that I attempted I didn't anneal the copper tube and it ended up collapsing. I'm not sure if it was from not annealing or trying to use larger punches at first to try and get the flare started.

I was completely amazed that I could actually 'tap' the bead on the 2nd side without it shattering while I was flaring the tubing down. MAGIC!

Thanks again!
Julie Suchy
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  #29  
Old 2008-06-22, 12:34pm
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What a great tut, thank you so much!
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  #30  
Old 2008-06-22, 1:53pm
Vineeta Vineeta is offline
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Great tutorial. Love the step by step photos and appreciate the humor. I'm giving this one a try this week.
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